3MovinParts

Ok, just got done reading the ENTIRE thread on pre-mixing. If i pre-mix, and remove the OMP (mech one, 88gxl) does that mean I can just drain all of the regular oil out and never have to add anymore, or do I keep the reg. oil in the pan and change it every so often?

Another question:

B4 any1 flames me for not searching/etc.. I have searched and read ALOT.

Question is dealin with the aux ports on S4. When I look at the manifold from the passenger side, there are two of those actuator things. Does 1 control the valve for the back one and the other for the front one? I have the Haynes manual and from what I gather, only the front one (right side if lookin from pass. side of car) works the aux ports, but that thing doesnt go into to much detail on that subject. I checked them last nite, and the one on the left side goes in and out by hand easily, the right one ,however, is a B*TCH. I put the force of God onto that thing and only managed to brake the skin on my fingers. Also, would removing/lubing it fix that problem? I noticed that it doesnt seem like it has the power it should at high revs.

and one last question:

The ACV that is located between those two actuators has some serious corrosion where the two wires from the harness connect into it (on the right side). What are these wires for, and it is critical that I fix that. The wires are not even connected anymore, they broke off from corrosion. Basically what im askin is should I make it a rushjob to fix that? The wires in question are green I think and connect to a harness near top of engine.

This forum continues to amaze me, much thanx to all of those who know what they're talkin about that help us ppls out.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

The OMP just used a little of the crank case oil to feed it into the combustion chamber. You are doing that manually now by removing the OMP and adding premix to the gas. The crankcase still needs to have full amount of oil as indicated by the dip stick. So, NO don't drain out the oil unless you're changing it. With the OMP installed and hooked up, the crankcase oil actually served two purposes. Now it's only one but absolutely necessary. Keep using a high quality 20W50 (summer) or 10W30 (winter) oil in your crank case and change it regularly.

3MovinParts

yeah, i didnt think that It would be smart to dump the oil outta the crankcase, lol. Ty for the info, and btw--I have a case of Castrol GTX 20w-50. Been using only that ever since I had my FC two years ago (even in piston cars)

Tofuball

Use the oil reccomended by the manufacturer for your piston cars.

Unless they are old, or modified, in such a way to require a thicker (hevier weight) oil.