Ice_Wolf

After searching a few threads, it seems like there's some very different opinions in different oils to use. If I remember reading correctly, many people said they use regular Wal-Mart 2 cycle oil for a regular tank of gas, and Redline synthetic 2 cycle oil for racing. What other brands are out there thay may work better for both applications?

My next question. After the OMP is removed, if I remember correctly, you can run syntethic oil in the car. I was thinking of using something like a Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W50 oil because that's the thickest oil they make in Extended Performance. Currently with the OMP, I'm running Castrol 20W50 and I absolutely love it. So, what are you guys running?

BLitzed33

I have tried a couple, I would recommend AMSOIL SABER PROFESSIONAL pre-mix
I tried that idemitsu and had issues with it fouling plugs and leaving some funny looking deposits on my plugs and foul them out. I would recommend the amsoil because it doesnt leave any deposits, burns clean, and works great. I also do not run a OMP anymore because my management cant control it. I usually run 4 oz. per 5 gallons. I have also had good luck with that protek R that pettit sells.

I also would recommend AMSOIL 20W50 series 2000 severe duty racing synthetic oil. That is what I use in my 560 whp FD and oil pressure stays rock solid where other brands at the same weight would thin out and I would loose oil pressure.
It also is great for that reason of fuel dilution, I run only C16 all the time.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this: It doesn't matter.

Any 2 stroke oil that is rated for fuel injection is fine.

Any engine oil of the weight recommended by Mazda for your conditions is fine.

FWIW, I don't run premix and just use Penzoil/Castrol/whatever's cheapest 20W-50 in the summer, and 10W-30 when it's cool out.

NOPR

amsoil is THE BEST premix you can use. no it doesnt effect how your car runs, but it will not let ANY carbon build up in your engine. ive seen a jspec t2 engine that was premixed only on amsoil. we ended up tearing it down because the car was totaled and the rotors were cleaner than any ive ever seen. all the carbon that was built up had come off in chunks and actually ended up taking out an apex seal. so, if you have a used engine, use the valvoline two stroke crap, but on a rebuilt engine amsoil awesome, it will keep your rotors super clean.

Icemark

ah man, do we need to cover this again???

$%&#@@ ()_8&%$@!567*&*~!!~<>?:}{*(&^%$###@!)

Okay, first of all, please read the FAQ for FC sticky thread before posting Many of the commonly aksed questions such as the one above have been covered.

2nd. Using a synthetic you can not extend oil changes past what the Mazda recommended intervals are. Regardless of the type of oil. Personally I wouldn't recommend exceeding 5000 miles with an oil change on a rotary powered vehicle regardless of the oil type.

3rd. If the MOP is functioning or not, has little to nothing to do with oil choice.

4th. Weight of the oil, should be determined by the service duty for the car. If you are driving in colder temps, a 10W30 would be appropriate. If you are starting and driving in temps consistently above 50F then a heavier weight would be more appropriate. Choosing the wrong weight for where you are driving will result in insufficent oil protection.

5th. Synthetic oils in most cases are for applications where cost of the oil is not a consideration. Some will offer increased performance, but that is more the exception that the rule. In addition most of the synthetic oils made by the mass manufactures are not really synthetic, but rather extra refined with additional additive packages. Castrol, Pennziol, and Valvoline synthetics are classic examples of that.

Castrol 15W40 Tection Extra in my RX-7s

Ice_Wolf

I did read the FAQ in the archives, but it seemed like there was more a dispute between to pre-mix or not, rather than which oils to actually use. I do not plan to exceed the 3000 mile mark for an oil change. The reason I want to use the Extended Performance is because it is a better oil, and seems to come out much cleaner than the conventional stuff. I've run it in all my cars besides my RX-7, and have come to like it very much. I remember reading that you do not want to use synthetic oils in a car that is still equipped with the OMP because synthetic oils were not made to be burned, and therefore they were bad to run with the OMP. I read that RETed recommends using the Valvoline pre-mix oil, some just use the Wal-Mart stuff, and some swear by the Amsoil or Redline pre-mix oil. It seems that not all pre-mix oils are synthetic either, so wouldn't that make a difference too? People have said that using certain brands of pre-mix oil cause more carbon build up than others too.

Now about the motor oil. It seems like 20W50 is the best to go with, basically the thickest stuff you can get. I know that when it's colder outside, you want to use a lighter weight oil. I saw this last year when I ran the car in colder weather, that the oil pressure was lower because of the thicker oil. I think my first run is going to be with the 15W50 Mobil 1 and see how that works, then maybe change from there.

Icemark

If you look at most "extended life" motor oils, they do not add extra protection like you are thinking, but rather they add extra Zinc as a anti-wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for a 8000 mile oil drain interval, under normal use. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.

I do not ever recommend extended life oils in rotary motors for that reason.

deadRX7Conv

I'm running 5w40 oil year round. I'm a little negliget with oil change intervals but do recommend the 3k/4mo OCI regardless of oil chosen.
I never did care for the feel of the thicker oils. Thicker oils rob power.
Since everyone thinks you need to adjust oil weight with temperature, then maybe you should monitor and address the oil cooling system. My engine was peppiest with 5w30 M1 in the summer. If I had a bigger pan, I'd run 0w20 year round.

The only issue I see with synthetic oils is the cost. Because it costs more, some will not check the oil level and top off as needed. Others think that they can push the OCI to 5k, 7, 10k, or more. Big mistake. The filtration capacity is a joke in most gasoline engines. And, fuel dilution is a big issue in the rotary.
Fuel dilution can be addressed with MORE FREQUENT oil changes and for the lucky ones, a good dyno tune with a piggyback or $tandalone, or heated filtration to remove fuel dilution(and moisture) but is too expensive($550+), eats 10 amps of power, and takes up underhood space. 3k oil changes is very cheap insurance.

Other then marketing gimmics, there are no 'extended' oils. Thats just a sales marketing point. Mobil sold 2 5w30 oils a decade ago, mineral or synth. Now they have 1/2 dozen: 5k oil, 7.5k oil, high mileage oil, blend, and 3 synthetics(regular, EP, T&S)..... Advertising sells.

If you remove or disable the oil metering system, then ANY 2-stroke certified oil is good. This oil should have one or more of the following: NMMA(TCW#), API(TC), ISO-LEGD , JASO(F#) and/or certain MFG specs. IMO, brand is less important then gas:oil ratio which should be adjusted for power level.

UCL's are NOT substitutes for 2-stroke oil. Common UCL's are Marvel, Lucas, Lubrigas, Fuelpower, and some gasoline additives/FI cleaners..........
I do recommend these for people with WORKING oil metering systems. These will also work well as supplements to 2-stroke oil and some will help prevent carbon issues caused by running to rich in oil or fuel.

Most certified 2-strokes are blended to burn clean and include cleaners. So, if you get carbon issues(like fouling plugs), you could either swtich brands or adjust your premix ratio.

iceblue

im not gona cover evrything that has been coverd in this thread and meany others. Just a few days ago evrything was awnserd well and differances in some typs of 2cycle oils.

I run Klotz R50 with RP 20w50 or Redline just depends on the car and what I can purchas.

Ice_Wolf

I understand that you should not push the 3000 mile oil change interval, which I do not. I always change mine at 3000 miles. So, as a general rule, are synthetics just bad for rotary engines, or what? I remember reading the only time a synthetic was bad for them is if you were running the OMP, or if you were using a cheap synthetic. I know that synthetic oils are supposed to add more protection than the conventional oils, so I wanted to go that route. The Extended Performance is supposed to have extra performance additives to help protect the engine and prevent oil breakdown, which is obviously what you're looking for. I've also talked to dDuB about it, and it seems like extended performance oils have a higher ash content, which is obviously bad for our engines. It seems like all synthetic oils are extended performance oils, so will I not be able to run them or what? I'll basically be buying the thickest oil I can find in a specific brand because I will not have to worry about cold weather anymore with my car, so that's not a problem.

For brands, it's really a toss up it seems. If you want to spend the extra money, it seems like Amsoil, Idemitsu, and Redline are the way to go, but if you're looking to go a little cheaper, Valvoline or a regular Wal-Mart brand are the way to go. Now, about using the synthetic pre-mix oils. Are they supposed to add more protection like the motor oils, or what is the deal with them? I see most companies make a conventional and synthetic pre-mix oil too. I understand that any of them will work, but why do certain people swear by one brand and people swear by others? And a good mix if I remember right is 100:1, or 1 oz pre-mix oil per gallon of gas?

liv

Oil change
N/A 3-5k miles
Turbo 2-3k miles

no synthetic on n/as
only synthetic on turbos

slo

iTrader: (1)

On the indemsu premix, has anyone else noticed that it has no ratings (such as TWC 3).

GUITARJUNKIE28

**** idemitsu

Chuckles

I agree. Waste of money. Haven't seen any difference except more smoke at idle.

iceblue

Oh and why is that?

rx7man13b

I use Sunoco tcw3. Seems to make alot of carbon but, Im probably using too much. 1oz per gallon. Ive read so many different opinions on how much to use and what to use that I think its easier to say "to each his own"

snowball

your going to have to back that one up with some facts...

iceblue

That just shows you meany people dont know and just dont listen.

RX drift

I hear that the best oil to go with, and i use, is the Castrol GTX. I use the 20W-50 in the warmer months and prob will go to the 10W-30 for the colder months. I think it is great stuff, runs smoth, comes out smooth.

And does it really matter all that much to use synthetic on n/a's opposed to turbo?

BLitzed33

Opps, made a typo....I use 4 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel. Demetrios K. of reactive racing recommends Klotz and is what he used when his car was still on race gas, now he uses the Klotz top lube for methanol. Amsoil is also what ErnieT, Ray wilson uses over at PFS. Oil is just personal choice really. Rotaries usually dont have alot of oil related failures to begin with, unless your oil cooler fins are bent over and not allowing air flow through the fins and you beat the car repeatedly and get your oil temps over 300 degree's...your stationary gear bearing doesnt like that...from personal experience

liv

Idk alot of false info goes around here and thats just what I read somewhere

Icemark

so why did you post further false information???when you posted:

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

there is a huge range of premix ratios going on around here. most seem to be arbitrary numbers. any reason you mix 1/320? is your OMP still hooked up?

i usually mix an ounce per gallon but have recently decided to try 2. no noticable difference. my OMP is still hooked up, but is leaking and letting very little oil into the intake.

i've heard people mixing anywhere from 3oz/1gal to negligible amounts like 1/320 and out of all these premix threads i haven't heard one definitive, logical answer as to what ratio people should be running. it's possible that i missed that though.

Mechanic

hmm funny, im on the same books as alexdimen, read too much different ratios, and i just decided to stick with 12 oz per 14 gallon, cos its easy to guestimate (3 lines = 12 oz...) lol

i use vavoline stuff, its the cheapest stuff i can get without going out of my way. sometimes i do mistakenly ad 16 oz to like 13 -14 gallons, then again that usually happens when i go fill up at like early in the morning... 4 am anyone? i just keep pouring and then OH CRAP... then i just cut back a little on the next 2 fillups, i dont know how much is actually required for wide open operation, but if nothing is breaking, then why change the habit.

if someone is truly knowledgeble about this premix information, post numbers with facts backing it up, and ill follow and new rule if it makes enough sense to me. ...

oh yeah i got a carbby fc.... thats why im premixing. omp gone since its a s5 electrical crap, no tps, no correct signal to omp IF i am correct. I can be wrong..

BLitzed33

I posted earlier in the thread that I do no have a OMP anymore, I run the Electromotive TEC3R and it doesnt control it. I run the expensive 30 dollar a piece NGK 10.5 race plugs, and this is what most the big whp guys use as far as a ratio for the most part, people like Ari, Ray, ErnieT, me, etc...you dont need that much and too much def. fouls them out esp my plugs. I use to run that idemitsu crap, not anymore, it kept fouling my plugs, leaving funny deposits on my plugs, and it required to use 1/2 an ounce per gallon, so it was concentrated I assume. Anyway, I switched back to AMSOIL and never had a problem since. I just experimented with mixtures, and it seems to run best with this ratio...everycar is different in how its setup is and what it requires to run its best. Just do some experimenting on your own...