okay , ever since I bought my fc the pass side pw switch was broken, or so I assumed and was told by the previous owner

the drivers side switch can operate both sides fine but the pass side switch is useless
today I took it out and tested it thought .. and well.. it tests fine

I just took out the drivers side switch , and it appears to be missing a wire? the "pin C" marked on the FSM is missing .., could that be the cause or is that norm? BTW its a S4
any help is appreciated

 

even if someone has a pic of the back of a drivers side power windows switch I could see .... at least I could see if the switch is faulty

 

Dude i have the same problem. I think its a ground on the switch harness. I had it working for a while and now it wont work.

 

Basic diagnosis method is a voltmeter with a conductivity tester. I imagine you should see +12V on one side of the switch and ground on the other side, if it were working. Follow the lines until you find the break (either through checking the voltage between a point and ground with car on or checking conductivity between 2 points with car off). There's gonna be a resistance in there somewhere between 12V and ground of roughly 50-500 ohm (I don't know the value), which is the relay coil.

If the whole circuit checks out good, then check for a bad relay or a bad connection between the relay and the motor. A bad relay is one that won't close the switch when 12V is applied (+/- can be on either side, doesn't matter). A relay is an electromagnetic that pulls a switch: you can actually hear it click; if it's an open relay you can see it the switch close. If it turns out the door switch is in fact supplying power to the relay (check w/ voltmeter), then you can test the relay with the door switch.

That's about as exhaustive as a test as you can do on any electrical system. I haven't actually seen any part of the RX-7's power windows, even in pictures. For all I know the door switch could connect the window motor directly to power, without a relay. Maybe someone else can narrow it down for you.

 

The passenger side switch gets both it's power & ground from the driver's switch.
Check out the wiring diagrams in the body electrical section of the on-line manuals.

I offer a copy at the link in my sig below. Download & print whatever you need.

 

I took a look but it didnt show a schematic for the back of the switch , I have one less wire going to the drivers side switch than I do running to its harness.. so if someone is up for taking a pic of the back side of their drivers side switch I could find the point that that connector goes to , and solder a new one in
I'm pretty sure mine is controlled directly by the switch

if anyone is up to it?

and man , ... that is the best sig ever and that sucks about your car.., thinking of getting another?

 

power and ground come from the drivers switch.

If the passengers switch is not working, but the drivers is, chances are very high the driver switch is bad at the passengers lock out switch.

See if the passengers switch is bad, both the drivers and passengers switch don't work. The lock out switch is the only part that is seperate.

 

k the wire thats missing on my drivers side / switch to connector/ is a black with blue stripe after the connector, could that be the passenger lockout wire?

also when I lock out the pass side switch , I cant operate it with the drivers side

 

The Black/blue is the positive feed (as shown in the diagram) for the passengers switch, however if the drivers switch does not work to roll the passengers window down when the lockout is active, then some one has re-wired your power window system or this is not a FC.

and I am not sure why you felt the need to post your answer three times. The duplicate posts have been deleted.

 

sorry about the multiple posts , my computer was being retarded and kept screwing up , and yes someone has been playing with the wiring , I dont know why and its a pain
in many places throughout the car connectors have been hacked and modified and wiring spliced and respliced , stuff installed and then removed
its starting to be a real headache , especially since I'm still trying to learn about this car

and I am grateful to everyone who has taken the time to help me figure this cars problems out

 

alright I got some pics of the switch , I'll post them later , but I think I see the problem , the black wire is soldered to 2 points maybe 3 , directly behind the lock out switch .. the large points with slots in them

 

heh, well i can't put the pass. window up using the drivers side switch, but the pass switch works fine. just blew it a couple weeks ago..

 

Yeah, i'm having the same problem as well. Roll your passengers side window down from the drivers side, and have a friend flip the switch on the passengers side when your doin it. See it it'l stop the drivers switch from operating the window....mine does that...dunno why.

 

Yeah, if the passengers switch does work, but the drivers does not, then the drivers switch Positive contacts are bad.

 

He said the drivers switch is not working to run down the passengers window.

Opposite problem of what you have.

 

my camera is being a piece .. the images are all fuzzy , so could somebody please post a picture of the back side of their drivers switch