Jezzza

iTrader: (1)

Hey all

Now before i get flamed.. i have searched for it but havent found what i was looking for, and most of the information contradicts itself.

My car (86 RX7) has been off the road for a while, and power windows have always worked. Just the other day, I couldnt get them to work.
The fuse is fine (30A) and i disassembled the drivers switch (main switch.. there were arguments that passenger side would or wouldnt work without it) made sure the contacts were all in good nick, and put it all back together.
This is about the time i came on here to do a search.

So do power windows have relays? .. if so.. where can they be found? I am assuming that my really has had it, and just want to change it over with another.
OR
Are there NO relays?

What else could it be? I am ruling out 2 blown motors, and considering my main switch may be blown.

I had a slight issue, when i didnt have any door trims so i hung my switches inside the door. I accidently left the battery switch on and i heard a short from the drivers switch. It was still functional after, so i didnt worry about it. About a week later, this problem arises, and I havent played with anything inbetween then

PS. mods i posted this in for sale section by accident.

Jezzza

iTrader: (1)

Also fount out my central locking is not worknig now.

Jpk3200

Just to make sure your window motors work, unplug the window switch and apply 12V to the terminals. Can't remember which wire colors, but that can be found in the Wiring Diagrams.

Not sure what you mean by "central locking". Are you talking about the power door locks?

Jezzza

iTrader: (1)

Yes. The power door locks. When i press the immoboliser/alarm on my keyring unit, the doors do not unlock or lock.

Any ideas?

Icemark

Pretty straight forward... not sure what is contradicting itself. The information is all the same and covered countless times and is even found in the 2nd gen technical section's archive.

There are not any factory power window relays.

Here is the circuit:



Pretty easy to see that there are not any relays and the driver's switch is required for the passengers switch operation, because the driver's switch provides not only 12 volts+ but also the ground (earth) for the switch and motors.

Do you have the ability to test the switch with a digital multi-meter? The circuit is very very very simple.

If you can test, the Black/Red (as shown in the above diagram) should have power (12v+) on it anytime the key is in the ON position. If it does not, you have a blown circuit breaker or fuse or bad ignition switch.

The solid black should have ground (earth) on it all the time. If it does not you have a disconnected ground (#6) in the car.

The motor tests like this:



Well the FC didn't come with a factory Keyless/alarm, system so that would be aftermarket. You would need to fix your non Mazda keyless entry system

Jezzza

iTrader: (1)

Awesome! Thanks heaps Icemark.. that clears ALOT up!

Sorry I meant that different threads, although similar questions, have different answers.. so i was trying to suss out which one is correct.
I will definately check when i get home from work!

So if my window goes up and down with direct power to it.. but not getting any power through the harness (and fuse is OK), should i assume that it is then the circuit breaker?
Where is the circuit breaker?
Also, by "ignition switch" do you mean the ignition barrel? (Where you put the key in?)

Who would of ever though Australian and American language were so different! haha

edit: Icemark, my car is an Australian "luxury" model.. eg, sunroof, aircon (haha..), cruise control.. surely it came with keyless entry aswell??

Jezzza

iTrader: (1)

OK! So i tested the motor with direct voltage from battery and works fine.

I then tested the switch, no 'constant' power on any of the terminals (tested back of plug). I then tested it on IGN but no sign of voltage.
I was half way through checking my fuses when i decided to test the actual power windows fuse. I got NO power with no key, or on IGN.
I should be getting a 12v ye?

Anyways, here is a couple of pics. Should the motor plug (2 plug) have a 'constant' 12v power to it? I tested this also and got nothing.



Main window switch 7 plug. Which wire should i be getting a 'constant' 12v reading from? What other wires should i be seeing/testing when operating the switch (ie. up or down, which wire should show 12v?)

Icemark

Yep, the passengers plug won't work without the drivers switch plugged in, but yes you are testing correctly.

So if you have confirmed that there is no power on the drivers switch plug and the fuse box, then we are looking at the ignition switch (where the key goes in to start the car).

There should be the ACC or accessory wire that powers the radio, the 1st ignition (which is only hot or on when the Key is in the ON or START position), the 2nd ignition (which is only hot or on when the Key is in the ON position) and start which is only hot in the START position. You can check those buy the opposite side of the where the key goes, there will be the terminals there for the wires.

And no FC came with factory Keyless entry. Mazda didn't have the tech back in the mid 80's.