just trying to diagnose what could be the cause of my passenger window not getting any power at all.
If the driver's side is working and not the passenger's side does this mean it can't be a fuse issue?
It doesn't work with passenger or driver side switch either, so does that mean it's unlikely to be an issue with the switches?
I've connected the power cable to a 12v drill battery and it works fine, so it's not the motor.

 

Check that the wires are not damaged where they go from the chassis to the door. Ive repaired a lot of wires inside the boot that have snapped over time.

 

what about that on/off switch on the driver's side? does that disable the passenger window only? perhaps that part of the switch is broken and permanently stuck in 'off' state?

 

Possibly. Also the switches carry the current in a reverse polarity setup so if one of them has a bad contact it would ruin the circuit.

 

does that also mean it's not possible for the passenger switch to work on its own if you disconnect the driver's side switch?

 

http://www.13betc.com/images/article...CAL_SYSTEM.pdf

15-53 thru 55 there's a test procedure. If you look at the schematic, the wires all rest at a ground state. The ground feeds into the drivers side switches, through them, to the passenger side.

If one of those switches has a bad contact then the wire may not rest at ground or go hot when activated.

 

So I just measured the voltage entering the motor every time i pull up/down the passenger window switch and the switch does toggle the voltages up and down but the voltage is positive 3 and negative 3 volts. i wonder if its to do with dirty/aged contacts in the switch causing a big voltage drop. i do know that the switch is receiving the full car battery voltage on at least 1 pair of its input wires
edit: i cleaned that switch's contacts and now it's working, thanks

 

So it's all good?

 

yeah. I'm going to install some relays as described here so i can reduce the resistance even further. it should speed them up a fair bit .
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...relays-821299/

 

All that will do is transfer the load from the switches to the relays. If the switches are dirty or mess up it'll still be an issue.

Just as effective to blast out the switches with some deoxit. Unless you run a larger power and ground into the doors to take advantage of the relays.

 

well measuring the resistance as indicated on page 54 of the document you linked when the switch is in up/down positions i actually get 1.5 ohms when in the up position and 1 ohm when in the down position. that means there's a 7.5 volt drop inside of the switch when pulling the window up assuming the motor pulls 5Amps (V=IR). and the switch already gets 12V from the battery on one of its other wires so I can just have the relay pull voltage from there and get the switching wires that are experiencing the voltage drop to switch on the relays.

 

the schematic at that link i posted above is from here which is for an FB https://wright-here.net/cars/rx7/mod...r_windows.html
but I wired it up exactly as he shows and it worked. windows are super fast now.

The green/red wire in his schematic are before you modify anything, the two wires that are going from the switch directly to the motor.

There are actually two voltage drops that occur without any mods, the first being the one through the power cut switch on the driver's side in the below pic. That drop will still exist if you don't use your own 12V source. For me it was about a 2 volt drop.