SevenDreamz

Alright basically I just wanted to run my buildup over with you guys to ensure that I have a fun yet pretty reliable setup...I blew this low mileage Jspec the last time...and it certainly DESTROYED my wallet...not to mention I only enjoyed the S4 GXL converted to S5 T2 for like 4 weeks... But here is my buildup...

S5 Jspec T2 Engine Freshly Rebuilt
S5 Turbo Rebuilt
Full 3 1/8in Turboback Exhaust
Cosmo 20B Fuel Pump
750cc Secondaries
K&N Filter
Fully Ported Wastegate on S5 Turbo
Manual Boost Controller 13-14psi
Stage 3 Exedy Clutch
ACT 12.5lb Lightweight flywheel
S-AFC 2 Tuned
Knights Sports FCD
All emissions removed
Removed p/s and a/c
OMP blocked and running Idemitsu Premix
Running Idemitsu Oil
AWR Competition Motor Mounts
AWR Rear End Mount
Fluidyne racing Radiator
New Fuel Pump
Fuel Cutoff Switch
New Aftermarket 15in Electric Fan
Full Defi Link Guage System w/ Controller (Boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Press., Oil Temp., Gas Press., Exh. temp, and Water Temp)
(I dont think i forgot any more mods...?)

Normally I will run boost around 9 psi only turn up for occasional track use or for a race...

Also what rwhp with this setup would you guys estimate....i am guessing around 230-240rwhp at 13-14psi...ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED...THANKS
MIKE

SevenDreamz

This is my car....

LookThatsMe

well if ur goinjg to do a fresh rebuilt get the motor ported while ur at it

SevenDreamz

This whole setup is already finished...didnt have enuff money to get it ported...wish i did...but does this setup seem Reasonable...?

Jaiyurai

iTrader: (30)

it looks good. but sooner or later, i would go with a standalone if you can.

I'm going to say 220-230rwhp. Or about 250-260 at the fly.

not bad at all. Great work! Keep it up.

SevenDreamz

Yeah I am kind of short on cash right now...but my next mods are definitely standalone and FMIC, and upgraded turbo...i just want this setup to be powerful and reliable for right now...

Driftfc3s

iTrader: (11)

That looks like someone else's ride that I know of. Maybe it's just a coincidence.

SevenDreamz

I dont know...maybe its a coincedence...i have owned this car for about 1 1/2yrs now...i bought it off another member of FC3S.org....named Jaidedeye....he posted on here a few times, not much though...it was N/A when i bought it, but i did the S5 T2 Swap....the car is 3 times as fast now...

Bukwild

Seven good to see you got it rebuilt. Here where the weather is getting colder you might be able to get away with running that much boost for a while with the stock top mount IC but when spring hits and the temp goes back up I wouldn't recommend that much boost. At that point the top mount is just so heat soaked your intake temps are way to hot and you will pop the motor. If you can't afford a larger FMIC you might want to buy a cheap water injection kit. The basic kit goes for about 199 on ebay.

ultradef

You do have to be careful running that much boost on the stock TMIC and turbo. Intake temps skyrocket REALLY quickly (datalogged with my Haltech, 14 psi with stock turbo and TMIC) and can pop your motor real quick. 9 psi is fine for the street, but be careful running anything over 12 at the track. Like Bukwild said, ebay has cheap FMICs (if you can make your own piping) or water injection kits if you want to run more boost.

SevenDreamz

Yeah i definitely want to be very careful...cuz i dont have the money to get another engine...so do i need to baby this car til i get a FMIC or standalone...?

SevenDreamz

Im nervous now...i might not drive this car hard at all...baby it all the time...i do not want to ruin this engine.....

Jager

iTrader: (10)

I think they said just to turn down the boost so a point where the TMIC stays efficient. (9 PSI according to above).

SevenDreamz

But still basically i have a TIME BOMB on my hands...LOL

Ni5mo180SX

huh? Ive run my jspec at around 1.2kPa for 2yrs now with about 12k miles on it including drift, autox and track events. I havent been on the dyno recently but power should be around 300whp mark. My signature is a bit outdated. Can't fit all updates and revisions.

ultradef

Your sig says that you have a "ported" turbo (whatever that is) and a standalone. If properly tuned, its easier to help reduce the chance of detonation with a standalone...although it's still risky to run high boost on the stock turbo IMO bc its very inefficient. With the stock ECU and S-AFC it's a lot trickier. He said that he wants reliability and power, so we're trying to make recommendations to keep his car reliable. Personally, I run my car at 14 psi also with stock turbo and TMIC, but I have a Haltech and I'm also aware of the possible consequences.

SevenDreamz - you shouldn't have a time bomb on your hands if you're careful. Just keep the boost under 12psi and make sure your S-AFC is well tuned. Now enjoy driving your car!

SevenDreamz

I think the only thing you have that i dont is the Microtech LT8-S....so i dont think im at 300rwhp w/o that but i know i should of at least have 240rwhp at 13-14psi...but im just really nervous man...i mean i know the first time i want to have fun and enter boost...then BOOM...and im broke again and w/o my RX7 for 8 months again...so i might just baby this thing till i get a standalone and FMIC...is it ok to rarely enter boost...it will be hard to drive the car so sluggishly but if it means saving my engine i will do it...i learned the hard way last time although 155mph feels great, the boom i heard afterwards SUCKS...

SevenDreamz

Oh yeah also is it necessary to run an aftermarket BOV with the mods i have and the amount of boost i would be running...cuz one of the guys that does the work on my car has a 88 GXL laying down 325rwhp w/ a Hybrid turbo and alot of other mods and he still runs the stock BOV...

Jager

iTrader: (10)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/TURBO/bov.htm

I hope that helps! !