No... The rotating assembly is precisely balanced, so any benefits you would see to the fuel economy by shutting a rotor down, would be far outweighed by the amount of extra wear placed on the engine...

 

.250" Carbide burr with a .125" shank and a drill press.

Brent

 

wow staticguitar, i LOVE that targa top FC. wow that is tight. i see something new every day here, its awesome.

u have much chassis rigidity problems?

 

It would be nicer if it used Vert doors... But I think he probably knows that...

 

LoL. I did something like this. When my friend and I were taking his 86 Tercel EZ hatchback and we completely stripped it out, and put a straight back, no cat exhaust, we had the heater blower motor out. Hmmm, we thought.... it was carbed, so we figured we wouldn't have to do a whole lot of fuel comp. because the increased air should pull more fuel in..... anywho.... off topic.

We stuck it on top of the carb and hooked it to a switch that would turn on at WOT.

Too bad we didn't mount it well, vibrated, moved, and one of the fan blades nicked a peice of metal and got sucked down the intake.... really jacked the engine up....

Fun while it worked though. LoL.

As for our cars... I am pretty sure that anything electric won't produce enough extra flow. I have looked at lots of electrical stuff. Turbo is the way to go, they spin hella fast. Not too expensive, intake, exhaust, and an SAFC for low boost.

 

Thank you! About how long did it take you to do one housing? Did you run into any problems?

 

Just finished my MP3 holder today. Kind of like the other guys MP3 dock that posted on this thread earlier, but a little different.

https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/my-custom-mp3-dock-557426/

 

Very Nice JFR. I've seen some apexi power commanders mounted like that. Very clean.

 

Thanks DarkNightFC.

 

I insulated the underside of my intercooler with silver bubble wrap **** from lowes. Just trimmed it out and siliconed it to the bottom plate to try and help heatsoak problems. Dunno if it works but it sure can't hurt. I also ceramic painted the fuel rails and wrapped them with the same insulation stuff. It all works in my head.

Chris

 

About an 1 1/2hrs for each housing. No problems, it's part of what I've been doing for a living for the last 11yrs. It's really not difficult, just takes a bit of practice. There's really not much to damage. The bit will only cut until the shank starts to rub.

Brent

 

the manifold would not be cheap, it would have to be professionally custom made out of high grade stainless to withstand rotary engine heat and have two flanges for two DSM turbos.

then theres the issue of the downpipe, which would be a total mess and require another custom made high grade stainless piece.

theres also coolant/oil lines (i assume DSM turbos are both oil and water cooled?). you could not use stock RX-7 ones and would probably need something custom here too. -AN fitting would be the easiest/best probably, but those are anything but cheap.

Also, you still have to take into account any tuning and bigger injectors, which isn't anything custom but is still more money.

at the end of the day its probably not worth it considering all the custom work.

 

+1

 

^^ sorry why would the pieces have to be "have to be professionally custom made out of high grade stainless to withstand rotary engine heat." i know the stock mani and dp on my car aren't SS and they seem to hold up to "rotary engine heat."
the only real caveats are as NOPR said, running oil/coolant lines, and fuel/tuning.
honestly if you have a welder, go for it. if you don't and you're paying for the work i wouldn't even consider it.

 

yes i do have flex issues with the chassis and its starting to scare me, it'll be fixed though, and about the vert door comment . . its in the works . . .

 

Like this?

 

McMaster.com search Stainless Butt Weld Fittings
A 304L 90* bend is like $5-$7 depending on Dia.
Then just get some 3/8 304 flat stock and make your own flanges. Hit the whole thing with an acetylene torch and get it red hot then bury it in sand and allow to cool slooooowly (prevent future cracking). That's how I am doing it at least. Gotta fit a turbo under the decklid of my 13B-Beetle.

Professional?
Pfff

Where's it gotta go?
What is going to connect it?
How's it gonna fail?
Try Answer/solve those questions and will still fail, fail enough times and you will learn something, learn enough and you can call yourself a professional.
It's more fun when you do it yourself... well with cars at least.

I'm a brain surgeon with an axe, no complaints

 

okay, the stock manifold is made of some thick *** CAST iron. can you cast custom manifolds? me neither. using regular steel tubing wouldnt be able to handle the heat, so you have to use high grade stainless. welding high grade stainless isnt easy to do right, it takes a pro. especially if you're dealing with something that will see well over a thousand degrees of heat. hence, it has to be professionally made out of high grade stainless.

for the downpipe, you're right. you could get away with mild steel but it would have to be pretty thick.

 

welding stainless isn't easy, it puddles up everywhere and gets all neeeasty. making penetrating wleds that hold up to that much heat over time isn't easy. if you can do you it yourself, props to you.

 

That is awesome a little tough to drive at night. Will that steel hold the heat? Ceramic coated? Inside and out? Is it running yet?

 

As for my custom projects: I made myself a headlight air scoop, except mine's an actual scoop that protrudes into the air to get better flow to the filter, I made myself a brake master cylinder brace, I made my own front suspension lower arm bar to connect the rear pivot points on the control arm ( https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-build-lower-arm-bar-under-%2415-448638/page3/ ), I also depowerd my power steering rack and I beleive I'm the first one to do it that way on an FC (first to document it anyway, https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/ ), I also swapped in a hybrid tranny with first gen gears (I bought it pre-built though), I also did a battery relocation to the passenger side storage bin, and I made myself a radiator and oil cooler sprayer system in case the car gets hot on track (thankfully I haven't had to use it yet).

 

Heres an idea I had, would it work if you took a carb, with the butterfly valve removed, and put it after the TB. but istead of fuel going to it have water going to it for water injection? that was the more air going through the more water would go in?

 

Ha,ha, yeah no headlights yet, I'm just going to run some rect. fog lights with a sleepy eye look for now. everything is 304 or 316 ss. I ran some gussets on the manifold, there not done in the pics that I posted. At least not that you can see. No coatings, I'm sure it'll be fine. I've built headers and they held up fine even after glowing. It'll be running shortly, just have a couple small patches to do in the floor, a couple of lines to run and a lot of little brackets for the braided lines, then I'll be putting the dash and interior back in along with the fuel cell and pump. You can use mild steel but it needs to be thick walled or it will get burnt through relatively quickly.

Brent

 

That is almost exactly what I was thinking brent.
Coolant can be taken from the top TB feed and return to the stock return on the waterpump. Oil could be taken from the oil pedastal, and return through a tapped hole in the oil pan. I own an LC-1 wideband for tuning, and can make a megasquirt easily for $200. Bigger injectors and FP, FPR, would probably be the only major expenses.

 

Or...save time..drill and tap the TB for water injectors? O.o