post your interesting mods or mod ideas....
#51
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by Rx7TyreBurna
I have heard about newer cars shutting down half their cylinders to improve gas mileage on highways.
I was thinking.... if you got up to speed on the highway, what if you could stop 1 of your rotors? Would it mess things up if you stopped the fuel and spark on 1 rotor? Just thoughts.....
I was thinking.... if you got up to speed on the highway, what if you could stop 1 of your rotors? Would it mess things up if you stopped the fuel and spark on 1 rotor? Just thoughts.....
#54
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by importsown
wow staticguitar, i LOVE that targa top FC. wow that is tight. i see something new every day here, its awesome.
u have much chassis rigidity problems?
u have much chassis rigidity problems?
#55
Becoming pure track...
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Originally Posted by carsaregood
pretty sure its been tried, and pretty sure it didn't make any power, since i have never seen anyone actually do it, but i thought rerouting your AC back into the intake might make some power. probably the parasitic drag overcomes the power gain from the cold air.
another idea i had was using an electric supercharger, but i don't think the stock charging system is up to it. then i thought about making a conversion kit for a 42V system.
another idea i had was using an electric supercharger, but i don't think the stock charging system is up to it. then i thought about making a conversion kit for a 42V system.
LoL. I did something like this. When my friend and I were taking his 86 Tercel EZ hatchback and we completely stripped it out, and put a straight back, no cat exhaust, we had the heater blower motor out. Hmmm, we thought.... it was carbed, so we figured we wouldn't have to do a whole lot of fuel comp. because the increased air should pull more fuel in..... anywho.... off topic.
We stuck it on top of the carb and hooked it to a switch that would turn on at WOT.
Too bad we didn't mount it well, vibrated, moved, and one of the fan blades nicked a peice of metal and got sucked down the intake.... really jacked the engine up....
Fun while it worked though. LoL.
As for our cars... I am pretty sure that anything electric won't produce enough extra flow. I have looked at lots of electrical stuff. Turbo is the way to go, they spin hella fast. Not too expensive, intake, exhaust, and an SAFC for low boost.
#56
HI!
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Originally Posted by brent clement
.250" Carbide burr with a .125" shank and a drill press.
Brent
Brent
Thank you! About how long did it take you to do one housing? Did you run into any problems?
#57
Just finished my MP3 holder today. Kind of like the other guys MP3 dock that posted on this thread earlier, but a little different.
https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/my-custom-mp3-dock-557426/
https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/my-custom-mp3-dock-557426/
#60
And the Revolution...
I insulated the underside of my intercooler with silver bubble wrap **** from lowes. Just trimmed it out and siliconed it to the bottom plate to try and help heatsoak problems. Dunno if it works but it sure can't hurt. I also ceramic painted the fuel rails and wrapped them with the same insulation stuff. It all works in my head.
Chris
Chris
#61
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Originally Posted by samperry007
Thank you! About how long did it take you to do one housing? Did you run into any problems?
Brent
#62
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Originally Posted by papiogxl
My idea is to have two DSM turbos mounted directly onto exhaust ports. Sure, there are better ways, but the turbos are like $20 each at a junkyard, and the manifold would be fairly cheap. the turbos have internal W/G and an ebay intercooler would be ~ $200 plus pipng. Use a stock DSM BOV from the junkyard, and you have a very cheap twin turbo setup that would give decent numbers as well.
then theres the issue of the downpipe, which would be a total mess and require another custom made high grade stainless piece.
theres also coolant/oil lines (i assume DSM turbos are both oil and water cooled?). you could not use stock RX-7 ones and would probably need something custom here too. -AN fitting would be the easiest/best probably, but those are anything but cheap.
Also, you still have to take into account any tuning and bigger injectors, which isn't anything custom but is still more money.
at the end of the day its probably not worth it considering all the custom work.
#64
^^ sorry why would the pieces have to be "have to be professionally custom made out of high grade stainless to withstand rotary engine heat." i know the stock mani and dp on my car aren't SS and they seem to hold up to "rotary engine heat."
the only real caveats are as NOPR said, running oil/coolant lines, and fuel/tuning.
honestly if you have a welder, go for it. if you don't and you're paying for the work i wouldn't even consider it.
the only real caveats are as NOPR said, running oil/coolant lines, and fuel/tuning.
honestly if you have a welder, go for it. if you don't and you're paying for the work i wouldn't even consider it.
#65
R.I.P. Icemark
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Originally Posted by importsown
wow staticguitar, i LOVE that targa top FC. wow that is tight. i see something new every day here, its awesome.
u have much chassis rigidity problems?
u have much chassis rigidity problems?
#66
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Originally Posted by papiogxl
S0tatic i envy your targa FC, problems and all. It is very unique.
My idea is to have two DSM turbos mounted directly onto exhaust ports. Sure, there are better ways, but the turbos are like $20 each at a junkyard, and the manifold would be fairly cheap. the turbos have internal W/G and an ebay intercooler would be ~ $200 plus pipng. Use a stock DSM BOV from the junkyard, and you have a very cheap twin turbo setup that would give decent numbers as well.
My idea is to have two DSM turbos mounted directly onto exhaust ports. Sure, there are better ways, but the turbos are like $20 each at a junkyard, and the manifold would be fairly cheap. the turbos have internal W/G and an ebay intercooler would be ~ $200 plus pipng. Use a stock DSM BOV from the junkyard, and you have a very cheap twin turbo setup that would give decent numbers as well.
#67
Senior Member
the manifold would not be cheap, it would have to be professionally custom made out of high grade stainless to withstand rotary engine heat and have two flanges for two DSM turbos.
A 304L 90* bend is like $5-$7 depending on Dia.
Then just get some 3/8 304 flat stock and make your own flanges. Hit the whole thing with an acetylene torch and get it red hot then bury it in sand and allow to cool slooooowly (prevent future cracking). That's how I am doing it at least. Gotta fit a turbo under the decklid of my 13B-Beetle.
Professional?
Pfff
Where's it gotta go?
What is going to connect it?
How's it gonna fail?
Try Answer/solve those questions and will still fail, fail enough times and you will learn something, learn enough and you can call yourself a professional.
It's more fun when you do it yourself... well with cars at least.
I'm a brain surgeon with an axe, no complaints
#68
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Originally Posted by twilight slide
^^ sorry why would the pieces have to be "have to be professionally custom made out of high grade stainless to withstand rotary engine heat." i know the stock mani and dp on my car aren't SS and they seem to hold up to "rotary engine heat."
the only real caveats are as NOPR said, running oil/coolant lines, and fuel/tuning.
honestly if you have a welder, go for it. if you don't and you're paying for the work i wouldn't even consider it.
the only real caveats are as NOPR said, running oil/coolant lines, and fuel/tuning.
honestly if you have a welder, go for it. if you don't and you're paying for the work i wouldn't even consider it.
for the downpipe, you're right. you could get away with mild steel but it would have to be pretty thick.
#69
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Originally Posted by RXBeetle
McMaster.com search Stainless Butt Weld Fittings
A 304L 90* bend is like $5-$7 depending on Dia.
Then just get some 3/8 304 flat stock and make your own flanges. Hit the whole thing with an acetylene torch and get it red hot then bury it in sand and allow to cool slooooowly (prevent future cracking). That's how I am doing it at least. Gotta fit a turbo under the decklid of my 13B-Beetle.
Professional?
Pfff
Where's it gotta go?
What is going to connect it?
How's it gonna fail?
Try Answer/solve those questions and will still fail, fail enough times and you will learn something, learn enough and you can call yourself a professional.
It's more fun when you do it yourself... well with cars at least.
I'm a brain surgeon with an axe, no complaints
A 304L 90* bend is like $5-$7 depending on Dia.
Then just get some 3/8 304 flat stock and make your own flanges. Hit the whole thing with an acetylene torch and get it red hot then bury it in sand and allow to cool slooooowly (prevent future cracking). That's how I am doing it at least. Gotta fit a turbo under the decklid of my 13B-Beetle.
Professional?
Pfff
Where's it gotta go?
What is going to connect it?
How's it gonna fail?
Try Answer/solve those questions and will still fail, fail enough times and you will learn something, learn enough and you can call yourself a professional.
It's more fun when you do it yourself... well with cars at least.
I'm a brain surgeon with an axe, no complaints
#70
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Originally Posted by brent clement
Like this?
#71
Lives on the Forum
As for my custom projects: I made myself a headlight air scoop, except mine's an actual scoop that protrudes into the air to get better flow to the filter, I made myself a brake master cylinder brace, I made my own front suspension lower arm bar to connect the rear pivot points on the control arm ( https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-build-lower-arm-bar-under-%2415-448638/page3/ ), I also depowerd my power steering rack and I beleive I'm the first one to do it that way on an FC (first to document it anyway, https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/ ), I also swapped in a hybrid tranny with first gen gears (I bought it pre-built though), I also did a battery relocation to the passenger side storage bin, and I made myself a radiator and oil cooler sprayer system in case the car gets hot on track (thankfully I haven't had to use it yet).
#72
Rotary Enthusiast
Heres an idea I had, would it work if you took a carb, with the butterfly valve removed, and put it after the TB. but istead of fuel going to it have water going to it for water injection? that was the more air going through the more water would go in?
#73
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Originally Posted by tinvestor
That is awesome a little tough to drive at night. Will that steel hold the heat? Ceramic coated? Inside and out? Is it running yet?
Brent
#74
What's the point??
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That is almost exactly what I was thinking brent.
Coolant can be taken from the top TB feed and return to the stock return on the waterpump. Oil could be taken from the oil pedastal, and return through a tapped hole in the oil pan. I own an LC-1 wideband for tuning, and can make a megasquirt easily for $200. Bigger injectors and FP, FPR, would probably be the only major expenses.
Coolant can be taken from the top TB feed and return to the stock return on the waterpump. Oil could be taken from the oil pedastal, and return through a tapped hole in the oil pan. I own an LC-1 wideband for tuning, and can make a megasquirt easily for $200. Bigger injectors and FP, FPR, would probably be the only major expenses.
#75
Boost in..Apex seals out.
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Originally Posted by Sideo
Heres an idea I had, would it work if you took a carb, with the butterfly valve removed, and put it after the TB. but istead of fuel going to it have water going to it for water injection? that was the more air going through the more water would go in?
Or...save time..drill and tap the TB for water injectors? O.o