--MAstermind--

i was wondering i had previously ran mobile 1 syn in the motor....right now it runs kinda funky....it ran well before using mineral i will from here on out use the castrol 20/50...BUT i wanted to acually ask...could having used mobil 1 syn **** me? i mean could it have made so many deposites.....now i have RP 10/30 in my engine....i feel sick thinking about the possible damage im causing.....my car is hard to start and i get hesitation sometimes i thought maybe since i ran that BS mobile 1 syn...it fouled them out? also the car was running rich too so i mean could that combo have fucked me over? i guess i purchase new plugs im at work and just wondering here at my desk if thats possible or other reasons for the hesitations and hardstarts are....my stupid cold start is irratic and odd too....hold idle at 1500 for like 15min sometimes wondering if that could help too? well i dunno thanks everyone please some helpful comments to keep me entertained and busy at work!!! LOL

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Its not likely the Synthetic did anything to your motor. With the advances in Synthetic oil, they will act pretty much like dino oil. Sounds like you have other issues.

Rat

--MAstermind--

good to hear..thanks for the intel....now i wonder what my deal could be? i only have the main ground to the passenger rear seatbelt....(relocated battery) and the ground from firewall to tranny...could it be grounding issues? where else should i throw some ground wires? because i also get the 35-3800 i had the injectors already rebuilt and flowtested...they performed to spec..so i mean...it can only be grounds at this point right?

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

- If you do a lot of open road travel in high gear, the problem could be a faulty O2 sensor.
- Do a full tune up. Replace plugs, wires, fuel filter. Set/adjust TPS and idle speed.
- You might want to run a can of seafoam (or a quart of water) through the vacuum lines. Engine fully warmed up. This will help dissolve and remove the carbon buildup you may have. If you plan to do this, though, do it before you replace the plugs.
- Check your compression too....and the timing

Obviously, there are a lot of things that could be the culprit. You just have to eliminate them one by one. No magic button to push and make it all better.

--MAstermind--

lol yea figured as much...lol i replaced my fuel filter maybe 5-7k ago i suppose ill replace taht i already tossed in new oil and filter...ill change the plugs (BTW I KNOW my O2 sensor is FRIED...) so thats the other thing....(does anyone know if the "aftermarket RP O2 sensor is anygood? whats the difference?) new NGk's ill run the 7-9 combo and ill throw in some ground wires see what happends...also ill get her compressions tested and in regards to timing..hmm i dunno maybe i should get that checked..that and the foam stuff is the only thing im not too sure about....so any more detail on that while im here on this thread would be fantastic....! thanks alot bud for the intel thats going to help out alot!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I've had a similar problem. It turns out the injectors were dirty, causing the plugs to foul, causing the car to hesitate. You need to send the injectors off to a shop like RC Engineering and that will eliminate that problem.

--MAstermind--

i sent them to a local performance/injector shop they were rebuilt and cleaned out unless they fouled out again....dammit i just wanna do this:

1) remove all damn vac crap and block it all off!
2) get all new injectors run 550's and 720 secondarys on a Rtek2.0(hopefully that will be available by then!)
3) new plugs maybe run all 9's? is taht a bad idea?
4) do the sea foam thing...lol...i wanna learn more about that
5) re ground the car


i guess ill do everything in this order:

5,4,1,3,2

just depressing this car needs to be running tip top ASAP because in january its going to be starting its SCCA solo 2 season...ugh so many little things i love this car and im not gunna punk out of it...

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

The Seafoam/water thing is basically a way to steam clean the engine internals, removing a lot of the carbon buildup that can occur. Rotaries inject oil into the combustion chamber to lube the internal seals. Plus they tend to run rich anyway. If you don't regularly run the rpm's up to near red line, carbon deposits can build up.

Take a drive of about 15 to 20 minutes to get the engine up to operating temp. Disconnect a vacuum line somewhere below the throttle body. Crank the car and have your significant other keep it running while you dip the end of the vacuum line into the Seafoam or water. This results in the liquid being sucked directly into the combustion chamber. The car will kick and stumble so you have to keep the rpm's at 3500 or more to keep it running. Be prepared to have your neighbors complain about the tons of smoke that result. Once you're done, reconnect the vacuum line and take the car out for another 15-20 spirited drive to rid the fuel line of any left overs and you're done. You have effectively removed a lot of the carbon deposits. I do this routinely about twice a year. Doesn't hurt the engine.

--MAstermind--

ok so pick a vac line.....wich one do u use? i herd the brake booster one is good? is this correct? so i dip it in this vat of foam and run the car above 3500 after warmup and let it suckup these chems...the worst that can go wrong? i stall motor and have to wiat for it to evaporate? just wanna make sure this ride is my bread butter and life...if i lose her i might as well die .....BUT i kinda get the idea just all i gotta do is pick a good vac line and ill go for it this weekend! thanks!

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

Brake booster line is fine. If it stalls, you should still be able to start it up right away. Then continue on feeding the chem or water. I usually let it stall about half way through and sit for 5 or ten minutes before I continue, just to allow the seafoam to work. I've never heard any horror stories about this procedure hurting a rotary engine. I've done it quite a few times and my daily driver is still cranking on.

--MAstermind--

awwsome ur great man thanks alot OH hey....umm how much and whats the acual shelf name of this foam what noticeable differences did u feel after it or is it just purely preventive mainatainance? thanks man ur a great help!

Ruffryder_29

I have read in a couple of articles and some other Rex forums that if you use synthetic oil for long periods of time, because the oil is injected into the combustion chamber, It may have some effect over time (buildup of unburned residue). I could be wrong.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

Actually, the stuff is called Seafoam. Comes in a can and I get mine at Advance Auto but is probably available at any car parts store.

I wouldn't use a synthetic (although the good ones like Mobil 1 are OK) just because I change oil every 3000 miles anyway so the benefits of extended use that the synthetic would give me is just a waste. I recommend using Castrol GTX or Havolione in 10W-30 or 20W-50 depending on time of the year.