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Hello everybody and thank you for giving me your time I've been doing research on Google YouTube forms and still haven't figured out if i can make 300+hp outta a s5 t2 motor without porting it if so what would i need besides the basics. What type of ecu should I be looking for? Witch budget turbos are good been looking into (cxracing) any opinions on them or just a better turbo around the 250-350$
This is outside my wheelhouse as I don't own a turbo but here goes. From what I gather from my time spent here is yes you can hit 300rwhp without porting, but it won't be easy. I think most that break that barrier have porting. That said to do it reliably and not in a ticking time bomb way won't be cheap. I'd start with a good stand alone EMS. After getting that all setup I'd upgrade the fuel system and injectors. Then go to a full 3" exhaust and upgrade to a BNR stage1 or stage 2 turbo. I don't know anything about CX Racing other than they're cheap but BNR is about as budget as people around here recommend but at $825 plus your core they are much more than the CX Racing, but they are proven to work and there are dyno sheets on here of people making over 300whp with them. Oh I forgot to mention I think you'll need something other than the stock intercooler as well.
This is outside my wheelhouse as I don't own a turbo but here goes. From what I gather from my time spent here is yes you can hit 300rwhp without porting, but it won't be easy. I think most that break that barrier have porting. That said to do it reliably and not in a ticking time bomb way won't be cheap. I'd start with a good stand alone EMS. After getting that all setup I'd upgrade the fuel system and injectors. Then go to a full 3" exhaust and upgrade to a BNR stage1 or stage 2 turbo. I don't know anything about CX Racing other than they're cheap but BNR is about as budget as people around here recommend but at $825 plus your core they are much more than the CX Racing, but they are proven to work and there are dyno sheets on here of people making over 300whp with them. Oh I forgot to mention I think you'll need something other than the stock intercooler as well.
P.S. This is the cliff notes version. Maybe some one with more experience can give more detail.
thing is it's my 1st rx7 build I have a front Mont intercooler but changing the intake pipes guy I brought it from didn't have a clue either but let some guy use plumbing pipes for a intake lol but thanks and I'll look into BNR plus what type of ems would work besides the haltec everybody recommends
thing is it's my 1st rx7 build I have a front Mont intercooler but changing the intake pipes guy I brought it from didn't have a clue either but let some guy use plumbing pipes for a intake lol but thanks and I'll look into BNR plus what type of ems would work besides the haltec everybody recommends
I've heard good things about Adaptronic. I stay torn between it and the Apexi PowerFC when the time comes that I finally get one. Though the PowerFC is older tech and since the only ones sold here were intended for the FD its does take some modification to use in an FC. Luckily Banzai sells an adapter kit that includes everything except the additional FC trailing coil and igniter and the PowerFC itself. APEXi Power FC Adapter Kit (89-91 RX-7)
Browse around here for other EMS options. https://www.rx7club.com/engine-management-forum-37/
Yes it can be done. I got my stock ported re-manufactured S5 13BT short block tuned & dynoed at 302 RWHP. Mods were as follows:
ECU - Rtek 2.x modified stock N370 ECU, tuned by a competent tuner (Dave Barringer, @ Speed1 PA)
Fuel - 4x Bosch 720cc FIs, drop in fit to the stock fuel rails; Nippon Denso fuel pump from a mid-90's Supra turbo (drop in fit). Reconditioned/replaced stock fuel pump wiring.
Exhaust - RB 2.5" down pipe & presilencer, going to a Borla dual cat-back exhaust
Turbo - BNR stage 2 hybrid
Intake - Fabricated AL 3" TID pipe to plumb the turbo to the AFM, with only 1x 45* bend, with fittings on it to retain the stock BOV & PCV vent line; K&N cone filter sized to fit on the stock AFM inlet.
Reliability mods - Koyo N-flow/dual pass AL radiator (retained stock fan & all shrouds/ductwork); RA OMP adapter & premix tank (allows me to run pre-mix instead of sump oil with stock electronic OMP system)
Other - Properly deleted all remaining emissions items (i.e., airpump, ACV, etc.), but retained full stock functionality of the stock evaporative emissions system & PCV systems.
It would boost up to about 9 ~ 12 psi, depending on the ambient/intake air temps. Lower IAT's = denser air = higher boost. Choke point was the stock AFM, which limits how much air the system can ingest (and thus boost). I would add that when we tuned it, ambient air temps were around 80*F and the stock TMIC was heat soaked, so IAT's were running around 110~120*F and it would only boost up to 9~10psi. Rtek doesn't have any capability to adjust the stock boost control functions, but it does do away with the stock fuel cut function above 8.5~9psi and allows you to add fuel/adjust timing which makes it safe (if you have a competent tuner!). So I retained the stock S5 boost control solenoid, and she spooled up like a stock T2 with a bit more kick and a flatter torque curve.
Yes it can be done. I got my stock ported re-manufactured S5 13BT short block tuned & dynoed at 302 RWHP. Mods were as follows:
ECU - Rtek 2.x modified stock N370 ECU, tuned by a competent tuner (Dave Barringer, @ Speed1 PA)
Fuel - 4x Bosch 720cc FIs, drop in fit to the stock fuel rails; Nippon Denso fuel pump from a mid-90's Supra turbo (drop in fit). Reconditioned/replaced stock fuel pump wiring.
Exhaust - RB 2.5" down pipe & presilencer, going to a Borla dual cat-back exhaust
Turbo - BNR stage 2 hybrid
Intake - Fabricated AL 3" TID pipe to plumb the turbo to the AFM, with only 1x 45* bend, with fittings on it to retain the stock BOV & PCV vent line; K&N cone filter sized to fit on the stock AFM inlet.
Reliability mods - Koyo N-flow/dual pass AL radiator (retained stock fan & all shrouds/ductwork); RA OMP adapter & premix tank (allows me to run pre-mix instead of sump oil with stock electronic OMP system)
Other - Properly deleted all remaining emissions items (i.e., airpump, ACV, etc.), but retained full stock functionality of the stock evaporative emissions system & PCV systems.
thank you sir I appreciate your input 💯 but as far as the ecu I'm thinking about running a haltech but that's because my mechanic talked me into it plus I'm in the market for. S5 t2 wiring harness (i have the stock 13b rn) not sure if i need it but my goal is just to have a decently fast rx7 for the street I kinda wana retain reliability. I don't wana race dirft ex. Just what to be able to keep up lol
A haltech or really any other quality aftermarket ECU will work too - chose based on what your tuner is most comfortable working with and has the most experience on & what you can afford. They all do pretty much the same things. I only went with an Rtek because (a) I had a relatively new stock harness in the car that I purchased new only about 1 year before I did the Rtek install, so I was confident in the wiring, and (b) I knew the Rtek had enough tuning "bandwidth" in it to meet my relatively modest goals.
A haltech or really any other quality aftermarket ECU will work too - chose based on what your tuner is most comfortable working with and has the most experience on & what you can afford. They all do pretty much the same things. I only went with an Rtek because (a) I had a relatively new stock harness in the car that I purchased new only about 1 year before I did the Rtek install, so I was confident in the wiring, and (b) I knew the Rtek had enough tuning "bandwidth" in it to meet my relatively modest goals.
ok I guess I gotta looking into different ecu's and somebody told me about rtek bit I haven't had any luck finding 1 (due to me not knowing what I'm looking 4) somebody mention that ECU to me also just didn't tell me any specifics
ok I guess I gotta looking into different ecu's and somebody told me about rtek bit I haven't had any luck finding 1 (due to me not knowing what I'm looking 4) somebody mention that ECU to me also just didn't tell me any specifics
New Rtek's are no more. The company that made them ceased making any new ones last December. They are still around for support only at the moment. You'll only be able to get a used one.
New Rtek's are no more. The company that made them ceased making any new ones last December. They are still around for support only at the moment. You'll only be able to get a used one.
ok is there any other computer that's a decent price that isn't hard to find like the rtek and isn't as expensive as a halTech
ok is there any other computer that's a decent price that isn't hard to find like the rtek and isn't as expensive as a halTech
Depending on how competent you are with a soldering iron and DIY stuff in general Megasquirt offers some more affordable options but it's in kit form where you do most of the assembly yourself. They do offer prebuilt stuff I think but it starts creeping up towards the prices of other units.
I'd suggest staying the F*ck away from cheap turbos. Look into BNR hybrid turbos. bolt on, and fits your goals.
I've been looking into both turbo and to be honest yes the bnr seems a little better but the cxracing turbo I was looking for was the x series witch cost 400-500 new don't forget I'm not trying to break track numbers just get a boost in power but ima going to keep researching check dyno numbers and see witch is better although I might just get my stock turbo rebuild for now until I can make a choice
I've been looking into both turbo and to be honest yes the bnr seems a little better but the cxracing turbo I was looking for was the x series witch cost 400-500 new don't forget I'm not trying to break track numbers just get a boost in power but ima going to keep researching check dyno numbers and see witch is better although I might just get my stock turbo rebuild for now until I can make a choice
I rather do things once and be done, so with that, I recommend companies like BNR before a CXRacing, do it once and be done instead of chasing down problems with "new" parts.
Good luck.
If you get a stock turbo rebuilt, just send it to do BNR and get their stage 2.
I rather do things once and be done, so with that, I recommend companies like BNR before a CXRacing, do it once and be done instead of chasing down problems with "new" parts.
Good luck.
If you get a stock turbo rebuilt, just send it to do BNR and get their stage 2.
your absolutely right I am looking for reliability also and as much as I hate to say I'm wrong but I am bnr it is thank you guys for the advice the bnr turbo seems like it will fit my budget plus I learn that the cxracing welds sucks and there lower intake manifold is prone to cracking on those bullshit Welds and i don't want to keep removing parts and replacing them and truthfully I didn't know I was able to send my turbo in does it cost less that way or same?
Why don’t you put together a hybrid yourself? There are some fantastic writeups on here for just that. I’m currently in process of using a t04b25 compressor and housing with the stock chra, and a TA34 turbine which ends up being a bnr stage 2/3 tweener. Very straight forward to do for less then what you will spend on a bnr. Not saying bnr isn’t worth it but you mentioned a budget of 4-$500 which fits the above criteria to a t for essentially the same thing. Just my two cents.
Why don’t you put together a hybrid yourself? There are some fantastic writeups on here for just that. I’m currently in process of using a t04b25 compressor and housing with the stock chra, and a TA34 turbine which ends up being a bnr stage 2/3 tweener. Very straight forward to do for less then what you will spend on a bnr. Not saying bnr isn’t worth it but you mentioned a budget of 4-$500 which fits the above criteria to a t for essentially the same thing. Just my two cents.
to be honest I'm not that mechanically inclined to build a turbo plus I already cut corners by using a stock harness out of a 91 convertible with a 13B Turbo 2 swap so most my money is going back into rewiring the car and probably a new ecu that's why my plan was to get a decent turbo for now until my Finance situation is a little better plus its my 1st rotor build im learning as im going but it seems taken a cheap route with this type of car isn't a good thing like a Honda etc. 1 thing people told me is stay on top of the oil and matence
to be honest I'm not that mechanically inclined to build a turbo plus I already cut corners by using a stock harness out of a 91 convertible with a 13B Turbo 2 swap so most my money is going back into rewiring the car and probably a new ecu that's why my plan was to get a decent turbo for now until my Finance situation is a little better plus its my 1st rotor build im learning as im going but it seems taken a cheap route with this type of car isn't a good thing like a Honda etc. 1 thing people told me is stay on top of the oil and matence
Sounds to me like your learning as you go, and there is nothing wrong with that. You mentioned a bnr turbo and those can be created yourself with not difficult work. I’m not taking away from what bnr does, and the olny reason I’m tackling this is that one I researched prior to, and two I’m at a quarter of the cost with the same result. If you did the swap your knowledge is more then adequate to tackle putting a turbo together. It’s really really simple in how they work, and the end product will be a bnr turbo minus the $825 price tag they command. I’ve lurked here for a bit, and have found a plethora of how-to’s For just about everything. I’m linking the aforementioned writeups for you as I myself am following them as well.
Sounds to me like your learning as you go, and there is nothing wrong with that. You mentioned a bnr turbo and those can be created yourself with not difficult work. I’m not taking away from what bnr does, and the olny reason I’m tackling this is that one I researched prior to, and two I’m at a quarter of the cost with the same result. If you did the swap your knowledge is more then adequate to tackle putting a turbo together. It’s really really simple in how they work, and the end product will be a bnr turbo minus the $825 price tag they command. I’ve lurked here for a bit, and have found a plethora of how-to’s For just about everything. I’m linking the aforementioned writeups for you as I myself am following them as well.
thank you I'll definitely look into it seems like the right thing to do as far as money goes and the engine swap was no easy task for me either took a while but did get done so your right I'll give it a shot and see what happens .. question unrelated do u premix and if u do does it make your car smoke more or that's because the ratios I'm using? Pretty sure my omp works but not 100% sure how to find out if it's operational or not and the premix I use idemitsu?
thank you I'll definitely look into it seems like the right thing to do as far as money goes and the engine swap was no easy task for me either took a while but did get done so your right I'll give it a shot and see what happens .. question unrelated do u premix and if u do does it make your car smoke more or that's because the ratios I'm using? Pretty sure my omp works but not 100% sure how to find out if it's operational or not and the premix I use idemitsu?
Yes I premix, and use a 2-1 ratio (2 oil 1 fuel). Idemitsu is not a quality 2 cycle oil in my opinion, and I do not use it. Anything that is TCW3 compliant that I can get my hands on locally I run. I think of it as an aid to the omp system. Your car is puffing blue smoke from the mixture being too rich I get a slight puff from mine under heavy throttle, and first start. As far as omp system test here is a link. The search function has been my friend since I started playing with this new to me FC.
Yes I premix, and use a 2-1 ratio (2 oil 1 fuel). Idemitsu is not a quality 2 cycle oil in my opinion, and I do not use it. Anything that is TCW3 compliant that I can get my hands on locally I run. I think of it as an aid to the omp system. Your car is puffing blue smoke from the mixture being too rich I get a slight puff from mine under heavy throttle, and first start. As far as omp system test here is a link. The search function has been my friend since I started playing with this new to me FC.
don't know if anybody tell u guys but I appreciate everything you guys did for me u don't have to tell me or help and I'm glad you guys did I learned and picked up alot from you guys I just wish there was a place in Hollywood fl that I can actually learn more about the rotor motor but there's not at least from my understanding but again thank u again... and yes it does throw a little blue smoke I was told 1oz to 1gal of gas? is that not right? but I was only told that because I'm not going to beat on the car unless I misunderstood what i was told.. and dont laugh guys I'm thinking about buying a old rotor 12a or maybe a 13b to learn to rebuild and take apart and actually get to know the motor more
07-17-18, 01:51 PM
