First: I have read threads and external websites on the Fuel Pulsation Damper, its purpose, the Banjo Bolt mod and RX-7 fires for approximately 6 hours straight now.

One thread raised an intersting idea: What about adding a hose to the back end of the Pulsation Damper (PD) such that if it fails, gasoline will exit the system away from potentially hot surfaces.

In my search for Banjo Bolts, I found an Auto Meter Fitting Banjo Bolt (Part number ATM-2276 at summitracing.com) of what seems to be the appropriate dimensions for a Banjo Bolt mod.

Idea: Why not install the Auto Meter Fitting Banjo Bolt (AMFBB) where the original PD was installed and install from the AMFBB a line away from any hot surfaces and to the end of this line install the PD.

This could also be accomplished by installing some sort of T-fitting in the fuel rail system instead of the AMFBB, using a normal Banjo Bolt in place of the AMFBB.

This would yield three positive results:

1. The PD would no longer be able to leak gasoline onto a high temperature surface where the fuel could ignite.

2. The PD could be placed in a more accessible location such that a failed PD can be more easily replaced.

3. A PD failure detection system could be housed around the PD such that if it does leak, there is a simple visual inspection available rather than relying on being able to smell the leaked gasoline.

If there is any system that renders obsolete this possible mod, please post a link.

 

I'm trying to picture what the rail looked like when i replaced my PD with a banjo. I think the back of the manifold drops just aft the fuel rail so you can't extend the rail with rubber line like you've suggested. however, if i'm remembering wrong and there is room to do that, then I don't see a reason why that couldn't work. I'm definately no expert on fuel systems though.

 

From what I understand of the construction, there's one or two other 12mm x 1.25 Banjo Bolts already in the fuel rail setup. Thus, the AMFBB can replace any of those with a normal Banjo Bolt going where the PD was originally.

Well, I'm going to do my best to try this on my FC and get the best of both worlds of removing the PD (from the danger position) and keeping a PD to help the fuel system. If it works, I'll update this thread.

 

what about this mod from FC3Spro.com ??

TR

 

Well, that's a $200 modification job for parts geared towards being able to use a more powerful turbo boost.

I've been thinking more along the lines of daily drivers who just don't want their FC's going up in flames.

I'll get some numbers on cost and repost tomorrow or the day after.

 

get the Marren FPD, which, if fails, will not leak fuel all over the place. Writeup in archive.

Personally, I went with a banjo bolt. $10 vs. the next cheapest option at >$100 for a brand new FPD. Marren FPD setup is around $150 iirc. All will prevent fires from leaking fuel. FPD will cover the still debated topic of fluid hammer.

 

My proposal to use the banjo bolt is probably the cheapest option available.
It is by no means the best or most-expensive option.

The stock PD replacement is $100+.
The Marren PD is $100+.
If you got the money, by all means don't discount them as a fix.

What the original poster is proposing is by all means viable.
It sounds like a very good idea, except for it's complexity.
Nice work!


-Ted

 

Good idea....HOWEVER by the time you do this you might as well move to an aftermarket PD. Parts like the Marrin are billet aluminium, rebuildable and appear to be highly reliable. It would only cost a little bit more to get a double ended banjo fitting to replace the stock PD and then plumb in an external aftermarket PD in place.

Edit...Or just replace it with a stock part and not worry for another 10 years.

 

I think the upgrade to the Marren is by far a necessity, but I'm having trouble finding a 12mm x 1.25 to 3/8" NPT solution.

The best I could find is a 12mm 1.25 Banjo to 1/8" NPT Female, then triple adapting that with an 1/8" NPT M to 1/8" NPT M, 1/8" NPT F to 3/8" NPT M and 3/8" NPT F to 3/8" NPT F.

I've had no luck finding a direct 1/8" NPT M to 3/8" NPT F or a better Banjo.

Any else have any luck here?

 

i had the setup from reteds website on my daily driven na and its well worth it. and now the setup has been moved over to the t2.

 

Tried a hydraulic shop?

 

I'll have a write up hopefully this weekend about a system i came up with for the S4 N/A and it will include a full write up with pics and part numbers i'm waiting for the last piece A THERMAL SWITCH FROM SUMMIT and 1 more -AN fitting...............damn summit just got here!!!!!!! they have very quick shipping!!