oregano

iTrader: (1)

Im in the process of porting/matching/polishing my intak manifold assembly. i read dre 2000's thread on this subject but unfortunately the pics are gone for some reason. anyways, i just have a few questions some of you may be able to help me with.

what kind of bits or tools are recommended for the job other than the "saw drill"? i have a really nice tool im using now in my dremel but unfortunately it is not long enough to reach all the way down into the LIM so right now i have an inch long spot of un-ported/polished manifold there. has anyone found a nice tool for this other than the saw drill?

also, im having a tough time keeping the wall smooth when i try to remove relativley large amounts of metal. its fine when im just scraping a small layer off, but when i try to go deeper i get little ruts and the wall gets bumpy. any suggestions on technique here? im guessing time, patience, care, and patience.

also, does anybody have any pictures or links to pictures of ported manifold parts?

thanks guys.

Mint87RX7

i wish i would have taken pics of mine, they turned out great IMO. I used a 6"carbide aluminum bit. after getting all the metal out smoothing it was pretty easy.
Its called a crossbuff. they come in different abbrasive grades and fit perfectly down the runners. use these with rubbing coumpound and you can get it to shine like glass if you want.

summit.com has a good selection of different bits and crossbuffs

oregano

iTrader: (1)

kool. duz anyone know where i could find these bits and crossbuffs in canada? im not a big fan of ordering products online:S

oregano

iTrader: (1)

i found a nice article on porting if anyone is interested. they used the same tools mint87rx7 and the results look just amazing!!!! i need to find out where i can get me some of the carbide bits and croosbiffs:P

edit: oops, i forgot to post the link http://www.advanceautoparts.com/engl...040801pm.html#

Mint87RX7

not many places cary specific porting tools, but im sure they could order them and you could buy them there

neu

man, i used a dremel to do mine, i went to home depot, bought a polishing kit, and 2 of these metal cutting bits.. said it would cut cast iron, aluminum, hardened steel etc... so i thought 'what the hell if it doesnt work i got metal cutting bits at home' but i used it, and it worked very well, i was amazed... but it would be hard without a flex shaft on the dremel... but it really worked well, had no rough spots with the dremel bits, it was very smooth and would cut like well you know hot knife + butter = easy

mycarisolderthanme

that site was definitely helpful. one huge question, however. i have read on this forum that it is wiser to keep the runners rough, the way they are, in order to allow the fuel/air mixture to atomize better. this is logical, due to turbulance. but what is more beneficial, better atomization, or higher air velocity if we smooth the runners while porting?

oregano

iTrader: (1)

im gonna go to canadian tire tomorrow and see what they have there that i could use. i talked to my friend and he said he used a flex shaft like neu mentioned so i will look into that as well.

from what i have read, most people who port their intake manifolds EDIT: /*(not rx7 manifolds in particular, but intake manifolds in general)*/ will leave the finish slightly rough (basically sanded down with maybe like 200 grit sandpaper) to help fuel atomization. but as for which option would yield more power (glassy smooth versus slightly rough) it is really hard to say.

in the stock s4 manifold, the primary injectors are on the block after the lower intake manifold, so u dont have to worry about those. the secondary injectors sit right above the secondary ports on the top of the lower intake manifold. so if u wanted to leave the surface rough to help atomization, u would only do this on the secondary ports inside the lower intake manifold. the rest of the intake manifold assembly can be made glassy smooth since no air/fuel mixture flows through those areas anyways.

mycarisolderthanme

good point! idk what i was thinking.. so the entire UIM is fair game! now i just need the tools..

oregano

iTrader: (1)

i bought a flex shaft today at homedepot. well see if it helps me reach further down into the intake manifold. the flex shaft cost me $45.

ScrapFC

iTrader: (5)

You guys who use a Dremel must have more patience than me! I use a 1/4" pneumatic die grinder ($10 from a local pawn shop). I got a set of (4) 6" carbide burrs from a guy on ebay for $30 shipped. I made a sandpaper mandrel (for polishing) by cutting down a length of 1/4" mild steel rod from the local hardware store and cutting a slot in one end. You can cut strips of from any kind of sandpaper, and a single sheet will last a LONG time! 80grit emery paper is great for fine shaping and removing any ruts you may have made with the burrs and it's the easiest thing in the world to just keep going finer and finer until you're done. (Wet sanding is much better than dry sanding! I work in a bucket of warm water. Thanks Blue TII for teaching me the bucket technique!)

neu

yeah, i've got a die grinder also, (14.95) from home depot... it works, but i like extreme precision... and dremel lets me have that... god damn i sound like a dremel infomercial

oregano

iTrader: (1)

yoooooooooooo!!!! thats a great idea!!!! u just saved me from buying those stupid $10 sandpaper flapper bits for the dremel and now i can go finer and finer with the grit!!!! genious!!!!

slpin

iTrader: (9)

searched my ***.................

oregano

iTrader: (1)

k, u caught me. i didnt actually read through dre 2000's thread. SUE ME!!!! :P:P

ScrapFC

iTrader: (5)

The sandpaper mandrel was Blue TII's genius. I just used his idea. It's great spending $.15-$.25 per sanding roll...
I just don't see how a Dremel is more precise than a die grinder. I will concede you can use smaller bits with the dremel, (I use a 1/8" straight carbide burr in mine for really small corners) but the smaller bits are more likely to dig trenches and the electric motor has a much harder stall. (More likely to jump/cause damage if it catches) If you want to work slowly, all you have to do is turn down the air pressure. ($20 inline regulator from Sears ) I do a lot of smoothing work at 20psi with the burr before going to sandpaper and it seems to work really well.
I'm still pretty new at porting, but I love it! I've done 2 intake manifolds, (Including dynamic chambers) 3 throttle bodies, 4 plastic elbows (Look inside one and you'll know why) and one S5 NA motor. As soon as FC-Chan gets it back in the car we'll see if I'm any good at this stuff...

oregano

iTrader: (1)

kool. im gettting the hang of it now. i tried putting a lamp from the opposite side of the port that i am working on and it works great for showing where their are dips and bumps. also, i found a different way of making a sandpaper mandrel. i cut 10 little flaps of sandpaper at a time and glue them onto one of the bits that comes with the dremel. i almost blew my load when i saw how good everything turns out after u sand it!!!!! lol. i never knew such results could be achieved when porting at home. today i bought some polishing compound so i am gonna polich the primary ports on the lim. ill take pictures later today and post them up.