Port
#4
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Unless it is ported quite large, there won't be much change in idle. And a rougher idle could easily be due to any number of other factors.
Mild porting also won't effect vacuum.
Only way to know for sure is to pull the intake and exhaust manifold, unless you have a boroscope.
Mild porting also won't effect vacuum.
Only way to know for sure is to pull the intake and exhaust manifold, unless you have a boroscope.
#5
MECP Certified Installer
I left my intake alone (the stock 6 port flows pretty damn well) and only ported and removed the diffusers in my exhaust during my rebuild, and it changed my exhaust tone rather considerably.
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#11
MECP Certified Installer
Yep.
Pic for posterity....
http://www.rotaryheads.com/porting/i...ter-bridge.jpg
Oh, and here is a link that explains everything...
http://autospeed.com/A_111123/cms/article.html
Pic for posterity....
http://www.rotaryheads.com/porting/i...ter-bridge.jpg
Oh, and here is a link that explains everything...
http://autospeed.com/A_111123/cms/article.html
Last edited by jjwalker; 06-09-10 at 07:47 AM. Reason: New link
#12
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The 6 port block already has HUGE port area. Generally the best porting is to make the primaries a bit taller, open them a little earlier. Then open the secondaries and aux ports a little earlier. Exhaust should go down a few MM, up a few MM, and widen a bit.
#13
MECP Certified Installer
In general, most street ports end up about the same. Roughly 20% gain in NA applications. When they start to go too big, they emphasize the high end and lower low and midrange torque. Not what you want in street applications. So in most cases, going conservative on an NA street engine is the best way.
The 6 port block already has HUGE port area. Generally the best porting is to make the primaries a bit taller, open them a little earlier. Then open the secondaries and aux ports a little earlier. Exhaust should go down a few MM, up a few MM, and widen a bit.
The 6 port block already has HUGE port area. Generally the best porting is to make the primaries a bit taller, open them a little earlier. Then open the secondaries and aux ports a little earlier. Exhaust should go down a few MM, up a few MM, and widen a bit.
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Yep.
Pic for posterity....
http://www.rotaryheads.com/porting/i...ter-bridge.jpg
Oh, and here is a link that explains everything...
http://autospeed.com/A_111123/cms/article.html
Pic for posterity....
http://www.rotaryheads.com/porting/i...ter-bridge.jpg
Oh, and here is a link that explains everything...
http://autospeed.com/A_111123/cms/article.html
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In general, most street ports end up about the same. Roughly 20% gain in NA applications. When they start to go too big, they emphasize the high end and lower low and midrange torque. Not what you want in street applications. So in most cases, going conservative on an NA street engine is the best way.
The 6 port block already has HUGE port area. Generally the best porting is to make the primaries a bit taller, open them a little earlier. Then open the secondaries and aux ports a little earlier. Exhaust should go down a few MM, up a few MM, and widen a bit.
The 6 port block already has HUGE port area. Generally the best porting is to make the primaries a bit taller, open them a little earlier. Then open the secondaries and aux ports a little earlier. Exhaust should go down a few MM, up a few MM, and widen a bit.
#16
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Sorry, I'm an idiot. I didn't see that you had a TII.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
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^great info on what templates to use, I assume because of the "great drivability" that reliability is close to stock, assuming only cold air intake and turbo back exhaust are done? would/could you run the stock ecu, piggy back, or full standalone? and would it be worth it after all that to keep using stock injectors or upgrade. your statement got me curious.
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Sorry, I'm an idiot. I didn't see that you had a TII.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
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Sorry, I'm an idiot. I didn't see that you had a TII.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
#20
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The port shape is actually the easiest part when porting, just grind it out to the template. It is all the other stuff such as transitions between the runner and port that takes skill and experience.
Depends on the turbo. With the stock turbo, you are limited to 250-275HP regardless of what you do.
#21
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Sorry, I'm an idiot. I didn't see that you had a TII.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
Whenever I street port a TII, I do the following:
-primaries: Mazdatrix 6 port NA template primaries, moves the port up and down
-secondaries: Racing Beat "streetable" 4 port turbo template, moves the port up and towards the housing
-exhaust: Racing Beat "streetable" turbo exhaust, moves the port down quite a bit (oh noes!!!) and widens it a little
This combination maintains great drivability due to the smallish primaries, but also carries top end to 8K or so. Boost response is very nice.
I am curious as to whether or not opening the exhaust port earlier is all that bad. I am not sure in which direction RP extended and opened my exhaust port. Since the rotor face has such an elongated combustion area, I always thought the flame front propogation is somewhat slow thus it requiring a longer combustion cycle to achieve complete combustion. Moving it down some I don't see an issue with, but you said it extends it quite lower, so do you worry about the combustion cycle ending too soon? I also realize going upward can cause too much overlap as well.
I am just curious on your thoughts on the matter Aaron, as I am not a rotary porting expert.
#22
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Opening an exhaust port earlier is supposed to cut into combustion a little and reduce torque. But in my experience it doesn't do this at all. Combustion has already taken place and peak torque is far earlier in rotor rotation. It is actually cutting into blowdown and I find that the extra exhaust energy spools the turbo, resulting in more boost sooner. The RB template moves the exhaust down quite a bit...4MM or so as I recall.
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I originally bought my templates from the places I listed, yes.
The port shape is actually the easiest part when porting, just grind it out to the template. It is all the other stuff such as transitions between the runner and port that takes skill and experience.
Depends on the turbo. With the stock turbo, you are limited to 250-275HP regardless of what you do.
The port shape is actually the easiest part when porting, just grind it out to the template. It is all the other stuff such as transitions between the runner and port that takes skill and experience.
Depends on the turbo. With the stock turbo, you are limited to 250-275HP regardless of what you do.
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