Robs86gxl

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First I would like to thank all the people who share your information of knowledge this helped me to get my engion in my car and running. Last monday I took my 86 gxl to get the oil changed the shop over filled the oil and when I drove off the oil pressure guage shot up to the top. i pulled over and checked it the dip stick was over full . I took the car back and they drained out some of the oil making the level correct. the car ran fine the rest of the day and I drove it about 30 miles on wen no problems. Friday I took the car out for about 3 hours driving time.. +100 miles or so.. made 2 quick stops on the way home leaving the last stop the car started fine but while in reverse backing up the engion felt like it jerked or shuttered.. then the rpms dropped and the car sputtered like it was going to die.. I didnt have far to go so I putt putt to the house just a few blocks away.. it was dark and the car died.. I started it again to see if I could tell what the problem was but it was dark all I could tell is the engion was shaking not runing smoothly like it had been and sounded like some sort of knocking close to the exaust manifold... Sat morning i tried to start it again and the engion spins like no compression then it would build up and try to fire but will not start.. I never saw it overheat coolent was fine oil level was not full after 200 miles or so but only about 1/4 of a quart low.. I fear that I have blown a oil seal or possably apex?? suggestions from the well educated are most appreciated.. thanks rob.

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Well to rule out the apex seal, check your compression. Look in the FAQ's.
Now, if the over fill of oil had anything to do with it....I would doubt it.

jdmdavey

iTrader: (3)

start with the basics, they used to teach us in auto tech school... "KIS" Keep It Simple!!....check fuel pressure, make sure you are getting adequate spark. Make sure your engine can take in air as well as push it out.... Check compression, make sure that engine is in good mechanical condition. Then you can start to look into seals etc..

hope that helped..

Dave.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Overfilling the oil is not a big deal. It could certainly not cause lack of compression.

Quick and dirty tests to see if your engine is blown:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm

Robs86gxl

I messed with the car best I could today Still wont start
what Im wondering is driving it home like in aaron cakes story it took almost a min to get to 30 mph and sputtering and putting all the way? Im glad i didnt have to stop might not have made it.. the motor spins really easy at first and after 3 or 4 hard cranks starts to sputter but still no start? I also have no idea how many miles on this motor and no history. Its only been 2 days and I miss driving my car.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Try the flood clear procedure found in many places on the forum. Its simple and will rule out flooded as a possible cause. If you have a turbo engine you may have popped off one of the rubber turbo hoses. My T2 ran just like that when I missed tightening one clamp. I guess it could happen with an NA if the inlet ducting after the AFM popped off but not sure.

Robs86gxl

Turns out that it was flooded but also has a bad AFM and now my question is will a bad AFM cause flooding? Or am I going to have another problem when I replace the AFM? Yesterday I stuck a screwdriver into the AFM holding the flapper open and got the car to start and run for a while untill I removed the screwdriver killing the engine. When I tried to start it again it would not . now flooded. So is there a relationship between The injectors and the afm?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Basically, the Air Flow Meter tells the engine how much air is passing by it and the ECU adjusts fuel based on that to give it the right mix.

Robs86gxl

I replaced the AFM still have the same problem. Does the AFM Relay (below AFM mounted on fender wall) control the damper in the AFM? The damper is still not opening if this is not it then I have a short somewhere and will replace the whole harness if nessasary.

Robs86gxl

if its not flooded the car starts on the 2nd rotation and runs good and strong. I belive the afm is the cause of the flooding and using the unflooding tip it will start up on the first crank. with everything hooked up it will start for 3 sec and die. replaced the afm and still have the same problem. I changed 3 egi computers, no change in symptoms.
Going now to find a afm relay try and see if that is the cause. Tempted to splice the afm conector to the egi harness. but the car did this last year after the engine swap. for some reason it started running fine and then one day ... anyone got some idea of whats going on here?

Robs86gxl

changed the afm relay and did not solve the problem. Car will start run for 3 sec. and die.

Robs86gxl

I have checked the harness made sure all plugs were connected and did not find any loose wires. aside from changing the harness i'm tempted to pull the gas tank and swap out with another fuel pump.

NoDOHC

Is the fuel pump shutting off? If not, the afm is not likely to be your problem. This could be a gigantic vacuum leak, try flooring the car as soon as it starts. If it runs, I am guessing that a vacuum line came off somewhere.

Robs86gxl

No trying to floor it only makes the car die sooner.
What I would like to know is what causes the AFM to open.
and again I replaced the AFM with one I know is good.

Robs86gxl

I also am back to my original problem. no start at all. This afternoon I may try adding some oil in my spark plug holes again to see if compression is the problem. but I still am thinking it is something else. For Those that will remind me to do a compression check. Sorry that junk compression tester kit from harbor freight aint doing the job! and I dont have a mazda tester in my pocket. So next week Ill have to load the car on a trailer and drive it 20 miles to get it to ths shop.

NoDOHC

Ok, I am guessing that the fuel pump is not coming on.

Here is how to test that:

There is a two wire connector near the air cleaner. You need to put a paper clip or something in to jumper between these two wires. Now the fuel pump should run when the key is on.

The AFM measures air flow into the engine. More air flow will open the door more. You must have the intake system on the engine side of the air cleaner fully assembled for the afm to work.

If jumpering that connector (Look at the FSM if you can't find it) makes the car run, then you need to look at your AFM if it doesn't, it could be the fuel pump or a defective relay or a bad wiing connection, etc.

Robs86gxl

For anyone that might be interested... I had the car towed to a shop. they did a compression test and found the rear rotor had very low compression. and it was way flooded. so they unflooded it cleaned the plugs and bam.. it runs?? these guys claim thats all they did. but now it does run (badly, very rough idle and the motor is not as smooth as it should be) drove it home yesterday and the radio started working ( it did not work before).. so whats up? the tow to the shop cost me more than the repair?? im going to try today to adjust the idle and see what happens...my luck I'll flood it out again. guess its time for a engine swap.
thanks for everyones input.