Had a new OEM exhaust installed today, picked my car up, got it warmed up, gave it some juice, and it starts bogging and cutting out at around 4000 rpm it was like hitting a wall, the tach bounced around too. Drove it back to the dealer, went out with a mechanic and it quit for good.
When you try to start it, it turns over and over but doesn't start. This is an 88T2 bone stock. I just finished running fuel system cleaner. It has NEVER done this anything like this before.

Please respond if you have ANY idea or advice.

Thanks

I spent all week looking forward to my new exhaust and the f*&%ing car quits when I pick it up. F$*&!!! Sorry.

 

Uh why did you buy a stock exhaust? It sounds like your secondaries are not comming on.

 

it sounds like either the injectors like 87rx7 said, or maybe the 5 and 6 ports not opening at all

 

I should mention I have some type of leak in my air pump system, maybe split air hose.

I bought stock exhaust cause I want stock boost, reliability and am too cheep to spend money on intake fuel system etc.

Thanks again for your replies

 

AHH, TIIs don't have 5th and 6th ports.

 

and the fact that it doesnt start sounds like you are out of gas wouldnt it be great if that was it....

 

if they didn't open, it wouldn't cause the car to fall flat on it's face. Well, since it won't start now, there's a good chance it's flooded, so you're going to have to unflood it either by pulling the EGI fuse under the hood, and cranking it over a couple of times, then replacing it and trying again, or you're going to need to remove the lower spark plugs, then remove the egi fuse, crank 5 times for about 10 seconds each with about 10-15 second delay between. If you can get it running, i'd check to verify that your pressure sensor line didn't get knocked off (passanger strut tower).

 

oh ya my bad didnt read it was a TII... im getting blind im my youth

 

uh its a TI.....

 

if you have a leak in your SAP then your cats are not getting all the air they should be you could have just clogged the new ones you just bought.

 

What is an SAP?

Jarrett

 

sap = something AIR PUMP?

 

Clogging of cats from no air injection takes months.

 

Ahh, who needs it. I disconnected mine a month ago to get around fuel cut until I can get a working FCD. Runs fine.

Craig

 

Oh, wait. I guess you meant the actual line and not the connector. Sorry

 

Sounds like it's flooded to me. You also might wanna have them check the compression.

 

yeah, they tend to buck and kick and fight when the lines knocked off, they usually do fairly well when disconnected.

 

SAP = Split Air Pipe

 

That's a very dangerous way to run your engine. One of the pressure sensor's tasks is to tell the ECU when to retard the timing as boost increases. If the ignition isn't being retarded as much as it should (your ECU has currently defaulted to a constant manifold pressure of ~4psi) then you risk detonation, particularly if you're boosting past where fuel cut would normally be.

 

I thought about that a while ago and someone told me that the "boost" sensor was only used to determine when to fuel cut. Although, that wouldn't be much different than running 12psi with an FCD because you'd still be running 4-5psi more than what the ECU sees. Ah, forget about it. I'm sure it'll come up in an appropriate thread.

 

To see what the pressure/boost sensor effects....see the Relationship Chart in the factory service manual. A number of things.

 

Nope, it's much more important than that. Well I wouldn't really recommend running 12psi on an FCD. But running 12psi when the ECU is actaully seeing 8.5psi is still a lot better than running 12psi when the ECU only sees 4psi.

 

Thanks guys it's my EGI COMP fuse keeps blowing, it happens I think because when I hit 4K rpm the boost kicks in, the car lurches forward and some wire, somewhere moves and grounds shorting out the circuit. I cleaned a bunch of brake fluid crap off some connectors and got it running, but it's still on stands and I haven't driven it so I'm not holding my breath.