Pyrocloud

Recently I changed the interior of my 86 base with a 90 gxl, dash and all.

Today I got around to changing the doors. Got the doors in no problems. There was no harness for the power windows so I ran a power wire from the fuse box.

The window works fine except now my car won't start.
It starts for a few seconds then dies.

I searched the forum and found a post that said it mite be the fuel cut def. The post said to jump the yellow wire by the pass strut post.

So I jumped the yellow wire that went to the f\s screw on on that strut tower from the batt. Now it won't come on even for a few seconds.

What should I do I love my car and now I fell desperate.

And for some reason when I try to move the passenger side elec mirror the pass window rolls down.

So I disconnected all the wiring I put in and the doors from the connectors under the dash. This still didn't solve the prob.

My car ran great before I screwed with it now I'm starting to think the change out was a mistake.

Please help get my car running again Please.

Templeswain

More electrical problems.

In order for you car to run, you need to make sure that you did indeed do the wiring correctly. This isn't like a normal idea of "hey, if I just give it power then everything should work, like a flashlight or something.

You have a lot of grounding places, and complex circuitry
that has to regulate the voltage through out the entire system of components that your either adding or taking away.

Your ecu is a digital system, therefore like most digital systems, the computer has to run at a specific Voltage +/- 5 volts for example. If its not then your car is going to sputter and smoke will come out etc etc.

If you've checked all the fuses and nothing is fried then this is going to be very interesting problem.

I recomend going through it in a very organized fashion.

Step 1:

Check all Fuses.

Step 2:

Check all wiring, one by one, even the wires you assume not to be part of the problem and see if they're melted or damaged in any way.

Because looking at a bunch of ******* wires all over the place tends to make you crosseyed write them down on a piece of paper.

That's my suggestion for the moment.

Good luck.

Pyrocloud

Before I jumped the yellow wire on the f\s **** I could keep the car running if I kept the starter ingauged.

Meaning if I held the key in the starting position the car seemed to have enough fuel to keep running. The second I let go of the key it died.

My god what did I do?

Templeswain

lol

That's my slogan, hands off.

Pyrocloud

Any sug? I'm taking it to this Japanese guy I know in the morn. Maybe he has the fix.

There isn't any spark at the coil. What causes that?

Jumping the yellow wire was a bad idea, I think I blew a relay.

Oh well, time to dig into the wallet again.

gavadele

you probably blew your main fuse when you ran and hooked it up it may run the window but it is possible you back feeded your positve wire with a ground or is touching causing a ground dead fault!

Pyrocloud

No, this was a pro job. I used all the right connectors to go into the secondary fuse box. Added a fuse that was fed from one of the oem main lines that came from the block under the hood. No afro enginering here.

Through trob shooting I was able to detect pos & neg in the wiring of the window on the drivers side.

I even checked all the wires I ran for shorts before I hooked up the batt.

I've disconected everything I did anyway just to make sure. There were no blown fuses anywhere. I always disconect the batt when working on stuff like that.

I think the biggest mistake was jumping that yellow wire on the f/s **** on the strut tower. After that everything went down hill.

Anybody know what that wire does? I know it goes to the AFM.

I was just acting blindly on the advise of another. I knew that you should never jump anything even to make sure its working. I did it anyway and now I'm going to pay.

Unless I can get some sound advice to night.

gavadele

try dissconnecting battery and ohm out the wires to see if there is a cross or if there is a break also if you wired backwards it would still would work until the overload or fuse break! you also said that if you hold key in start position that it would start is there a security system in this car or anti theft.

Pyrocloud

No security sys. I've just checked and rechecked all the connections. Everything seams to be the way it was.

Is it posible that I fried a relay somewhere? What compoments are nessesary for a well running engin?

gavadele

lets start with computer then you have ecu for the engine ignition then you have fuses 2 types main fuses and also secondary fuses main fuses are in engine area near battery secondary fuses are inside driverside 2 wire harnesses one for ingnition other for starter fuel pump all electrical dash comp. etc.. what you might have done is there is a main fusable link inside on secondary fusebox which protects vechicle computer. i really can't tell from the information you gave so far! try disconnecting wire to window and then see what happens. i took my whole engine out i know there is a whole lotta wires. also were you connected wire check for the connection on air flow meter that would shut your engine down after fire up, it did with mine i had to replace it.

Pyrocloud

Yea, I even went to so far as to take the cover off the K&N AFM and do a simple insp. Nothing in there was fried or looked damaged.

The main prob as I see it now is there is no fire at the coil.

This main fuseable link is in the secondary fuse box, is that the one inside the car or under the hood?

That sounds like it might be the case, I'll look to see if the fuel pump is getting power as well, But all the other stuff seems to be working i.e. the radio, the lights, and stuff like that all come on when the key is at acc.

VroomVroomVroom

Well, Pyro, if it was the single check connector with the yellow wire to it, then you have most likely fried the ECU. It was supposed to be GROUNDED according to the schematic, F41 Check Connector, Bttm. RHS on page 50-22 of the Factory Service Manual. Sorry! Dave

Pyrocloud

Maybe, The yellow wire I'm talking about changes on the other side of the connector to a brown wire with a yellow stripe that goes directly into the AFM. There are actualy three wires in the connector. Each one goes into the AFM.

I sure hope its not the ECU, I hear they can be really expencive. Where do I find one if I need to replace it? I mean other than the dealer, those guys can be really expensive.

How do I check and see if it is the ECU thats fried?

I'm currently going through the wiring diagram now to see where I messed up.

I took the car to the shop this morn. The guy I took it to knows his **** when it comes to imports. He changed the motor in my dads 84 RX7. Which doesn't mean anything thing but he knows more than I do thats for sure.

VroomVroomVroom

Err....obviously not that connector I was talking about as it is on the opposite side to the AFM. The schematic shows no yellow wires at all on the AFM connector, so I dont know what to say. Look at the number of poles on the connector, and the number/colour of wires in/out as that might give us a clue which wire you jumped.
As a general rule, I would say that you never jumper power to anything (without you are absolutely sure you are correct, and have a very good working knowledge of electric circuits!).
Yeh, now I tell you.
I'll try to help, but need to identify exactly where you applied power. Dave

Pyrocloud

Thanks Dave!

Since the car is at the shop I have no way of looking at it to see. On the passenger side of the car on the strut tower there is an adjustment screw. Its labled F/S. It has three wires coming into it.

I'm not sure what the specific colors are, but I do know that all three wires change color on the side of the connector that plug into the adjustment screw connector.

All three of those wires go into the mechanism that has the air filter on the front of the car. I thought that was the AFM. It has a metal flap inside it. I don't know if it makes a difference but it says K&N on both the filter and the mechanism. It only has one plug going into it.

The plug that goes in to the mechanism has about 8 wires going into it. Three of them come from that adjustment screw.

Yea I know better and it was against my better judgment to do something like that. I kept telling myself not to do it, well I did it anyway and I'm paying the price.

Thanks again Dave!