heres the pics dont know why they didnt load that time

 

i still have no clue

 

Are the colors in the first jpg the same as the colors in the plug I'm attaching.

 

yes that is it. also dont nkow what that white one is. i dont have the interior all plugged up so im just trying to rule all this out. also i was wondering does it matter that the n.a. harness doesnt have a fuel pump resistor /relay wiring

 

Series four cars do not get a Fuel Pump Resistor Relay. EARLY cars had a Solenoid Resistor Package bolted to the right fender below the area of the afm/filter assy.

I run a non turbo to Tubo without the fuel pump resistor relay and there are NO problems doing that. I've also run that car with one, and its not worth the time and trouble to install one. It just complicates things with no value added.

Nobody can tell what that four socket plug is , because we cannot see the wire colors Clearly. It kinda looks like a red, yellow, black/white and black wire. But we cannot tell if there is a stripe on the red or yellow, so we ain't a gonna look.

Same can be said of the other plugs.

IF you don't have an automatic car, then that plug I identified does not get used.

 

ok so i did a little bit more probing on the wires on the ecu. on the small clip 3 all the wires are getting 12v. the grounds are getting .2 ohms with the key off and with the key on 3g gets 17.3 and 3a gets 5.6 ohms

now on clip 2 they are barely hetting any volts. 2a is noly getting only .15 volts. and the rest of the pins are only getting between .1 and .2 volts. the ground 2c gets .2 ohms and with the key on it gets 20.9 ohms

now for the plugs

pics 1 small plug goes

[ b/w & b/w] [b/br & b/br ]

[g/y ] [ br/w ]

pic 2 goes

[ o/w] [b/w ]

[ y ] [ b/w ]


pic three goes

[b/w]

[ y ]

 

HAILERS!!!! i just got spark. i figured out what you were saying about a sensor dropping he power. is was my tps sensor. i had to extend it to reach the harness so no im going to go figure out why.

 

The first picture, small plug sounds a lot like the Atmospheric Pressure Sensor . It looks exactly like the boost/pressure sensor except it has NO nipple on its bottom side. Located passengers foot well, up, far right, hard to see. Every single series four had one.

If it's not connected up, the ECU defaults to a altitutude of sealevel. If you live, say at 800ft above sea level, your engine will run rich throughout the full range i.e. idle and up.

Your letters don't quite match the FSM letters.

Brown......Br

Black........B

Blue.........L

Brown with a white stripe........Br/W

Black/White...........B/W

Green with a Yellow stripe.........G/Y

Brown with Red stripe.........BR/R

 

Super! Car will start without it connected, but will run funny at idle.

 

Ok. I think you got some wires wrong. Instead of two black/white wires in the four hole plug near the pedals, it's really two Black/Yellow wires, and orange/white wire and a Yeller wire. That is not used on stick cars. It's automatic related for Kick Down Swtich for the accelerator. Forget about it all together.

The two holer with a black/white wire and a yellow is giving me problems. Sounds like and looks a bit like the stop or clutch switches but the colors don't Seem to match.

 

Ok. Your BW/Y is really a Back wire with yellow stripe with a Yellow wire. BY/Y.

The brake switch on SOME cars has two plugs on it's aft side. One is the colors above. Look at your brake pedal and see if there is a place for a second plug....or not. It'll be one plug above the other on the brake switch.

It's for Cruise Contorl. Step on the pedal and it sends 12vdc to the Cruise unit to turn off the cruise. Not a player in starting.

 

ok i will def go look at the brakes, the car has STARTED. although it only last 3 seconds but thats 100% better than yesterday. i dont have an exhaust and i need to change the plugs becuase there fouled but im trying to burn out the atf with this set, so i dont know if those factor into the lack of idle. for some reason by guage cluster isnt registering anything, maybe a fuse? thanks!!! i am truly grateful for all the help thus far. just to hear it start is amazing. also i think i need a new starter becuase it only engages half the time. i think its becuase i replace the seleniod with one from a spare n.a. starter.

 

METER FUSE. Interior fuse box.

AFM plug connected to the AFM? Just a thought.

 

yep the afm is plugged in. i think there was one vac line i forgot to plug idk if that would kill it but im going to try to get an exhaust before i keep trying to start it. any thing else to check that could cause it to die?

 

RX start not using the AFM at all. After the rpms get over 500rpm, then the afm takes over.

Also large air leaks can have the same symptoms. Like the air hose on the BAC that goes to the turbo outlet duct.

Or the brake booster vacuum line on the back of the throttle body wide open or not connected up.

Or one of the small hose on the intercooler not connected up at each end. Or one of the large intercooler ducts off/half on.

Or on the back of the turbo inlet duct go two hoses. Make sure there are no open holes on the turbo inlet duct. Also make sure the turbo inlet duct is attached to the turbo and there are no cracks where the duct mates with the turbo.

Or if the water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing isn't connected up, the mixture will be tooooo lean to idle and difficult to start on a cold engine. ON a hot engine, that sensor makes no difference if it isn't connected up. Only cold engines.

 

i didnt plug the line on top of the throttle body because i thought it was coolant but now im thinking i was wrong

 

It's water if on top of the throttle body. And it's water coming in the bottom of the throttle body, unless you did a work around on that.

 

.

 

yea i blocked it from the block so i dont have to worry about that. since youve helped me this far i just have a few questions of things im alittle iffy on. for the twinscroll i plugged the solenoid into the blue clip and ran a vac lin from the actuator to the solenoid then to the uim, just want to make sure thats right. also where does the bottom line of the charcoal canister go. also do you happen to have a picture of the atmospheric pressure sensor so i can figure out if im missing it or not.

 

Like I said above, it looks just like the boost sensor but has no vacuum nipple on it's bottom. A jpg of the boost sensor is attached.

It's on the far right attached to the r/h wall. Way up. And about 12" from the firewall (memory here).

 

ok im gonna look for it tommorow, if its not there hopefully the parts car has one