sho shane you will need the adapter you can either go to mazdatrix.com or pineappleracing.com there about $90 either way
TweaK

 

well did you use seafoam to clean out your engine or did your friend or the guy put it in at the last minute and didn't tell you...
this is how it looks like

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Ok so I did the oil change, added the brake fluid, and let it run for 15 mins. It smoked the hole time but was getting lighter the longer it ran. Then I had to kill it cus it started to get warm. I pulled the bat to use it on a friends car. Then put the bat back in and tried to crank up my car again (been about 20min). When it fired up there was NO SMOKE!!! I mean none. Like no smoke at all. How does it go from smoking that bad to none at all? Im going to let it sit over night and try to see what it does in the morning.

I think the overheating is the clutch fan. I can spin it by hand really easy.

 

its just the Oil rings man brake fluid does wonders lol

now if everything works arent you glad you listened to us?
TwEaK

 

Ya but how long will it last? Also do I put it in with every oil change?

 

get a new clutch fan and go from there on the overheating part. If i were you i would start saving up for a TII engine swap and then just keep it stock. They are just as reliable as an n/a when stock.

 

The clutch fan will spin freely until the car heats up. When it's sitting there for a few minutes see if it locks up.

All of that white smoke was amazing, it did seem like something let go. If you continue to have issues with cooling, it may suggest that a coolant seal went... while it sounds like you don't smell the sweetness, that could explain the clouds of white smoke. I would keep an eye on the coolant level (and if it is bubbling when running.)

Of course, either a coolant seal or an oil control ring don't necessarily damage any major parts. If a rebuild is in your future, your apex seals, rotors, and housings will not be destroyed, which are all pluses.

Also, those compression numbers don't seem that bad.

And consider looking at the pricing for a local rebuilder too. Picture that you will be spending about $1k if you do it yourself, or a few hundred more to have a budget rebuilder do it with a guarantee. Of course, I decided to do my own too, so I can't blame you... and I need a lot more parts than you do.

Best of luck.

 

Wel sar thank you for your input. I do know for sure tho that it is all oil. You can smell it bad. Now that the smoking has stoped im going to crank it up in the morning and hope it stays away. We will see. When it comes down to rebuilding the motor I will for sure be doing it myself. So I will check out the clutch fan in the morning and go from there.

 

who said that running a motor with a coolant seal broken doesnt cause any damage? of course it does it washes away the lubricants inside the motor and wears the apex seal with the housing cause a substantial amount of wear inside the motor and making the housing worthless....
TwEaK

 

if the temp gauge is only going past halfway it's not overheating.

 

On s5's, the temp gauge raising at all after 1/2 is overheating. S5 gauge reading translation:

below 1/2: below 150F
at 1/2: between 150 and 170
above 1/2: over 190 (overheating)

S5 temp gauges suck.

 

Well it is going above half and as soon as it does I shut it down. I dont have the money for a 100.00 clutch fan right now so would a honda fan straped to it keep it cool?

 

I'm running a 1900CFM dodge caravan e-fan in my car and it usually rises to around 200F+ when I'm sitting at stop lights in 90F weather but drops back to 170-180F when moving.

And I know G35 1500CFM fans are upgrades for the honda guys so I'm going to say no.

If you go to the junkyard and pull one from a taurus and TELL THEM you pulled it from a early 90's mercury (hey, your not lying, tell them it was a sable. Ford is ford. ), I'm sure they won't charge you more than 20$ for it. And their known to push ~4500CFM of air on full speed.

 

sho shane, I saw your craigslist ad and have two words for your overheating probelms:

Fan shroud

You don't have one, and therefore your fan (which may or may not be working) isn't efficiently pulling air through the radiator. Especially when it is just sitting there. Get a fan shroud asap!

 

And the fan should spin freely when cold, then get harder to spin when warm

 

When the car was hot today the fan was still really easy to turn.

I just picked up a really good running 92 S10 Blazer with a Vortec 4.3 in it. What would that motor do in my car? I mean i know that ppl dont really beleave in doing motor swaps but with a small V6 it would keep my 50/50 weight transfer and be a huge upgrade in power. Also it would be way easyer to find parts for.

 

bagh! this is turning to a waste of time.... sell the car and keep the blazer then...


TwEaK

 

Im not saying that is what im going to do.... Im just saying the blazer did not cost me nothing and it has a really nice motor in it.

I got my car for the rotary. Im not looking to replace it. But it would be very cool I think

 

sho shane im honestly not trying to bash or hate on you man but it seems like your changing your mind more than you wipe your ***... only a true rotary fanatic can deal with the problems that an rx7 brings... and it will bring you many.. if you go cheap it will come back and bite you

what i think you honestly need to do is make shure that blazer can be used as a DD and think about fixing everything on the 7 if thats the way you decide to go but dont ask in the 2nd gen section about piston swaps in the 7 as you will get flamed..

theres another section for that
TwEaK

 

190° is hardly "overheating", that's well within normal operating temperature.

My S5 gauge read 1/2 up to @ 210-220°F and it would start to climb from there.
Basically, you knew if the gauge read over halfway something was really wrong.

 

I use Evans NPG+ coolant and a no pressure system. The likelihood of boiling over is zero, so I did a little test to see exactly where the factory gauge started to climb.

In the driveway I unplugged the fan temp sender. I let the car idle till it was warm, very very warm. MY VDO aftermarket goes to 235*. I saw 25% gauge at around 175*, 40% at around 185* and 50% at 190*. I didn't see any additional rise in the factory gauge above the 50% mark until my VDO read OVER 235*. At that point, the gauge was very slighly over 50%. I don't know what temp would peg the factory gauge.

FWIW.

 

if you want to drop the temp turn on the heater it cools my car when it start to get warm and i dont have a fan shroud either it works for me..

 

Couldn't tell if the smoke was grey or white. White means coolant, grey means fuel. What does it smell like? If it's fuel and it only smokes when you first start it then it's no big deal. Just flooding a little. If it seems like coolant then do that bubble test again.

I agree on finding out what's wrong before you assume it's a blown motor.

 

Ok man. Obviously this isn't your only car then. Either do a swap or rebuild it. Rebuild will cost you around $800-$1000 to do yourself. The swap will cost about the same.

Get a new clutch fan, AND A FREAKING FAN SHROUD!

 

That's just a personal mark of overheating. Normally, if your car is going to be going above 190 at idle, its more than likely going to keep rising to the unsafe point.

The gauge pretty much reads cold, running, and overheating. Once past ~235F, the gauge will just go up and pin. My old motor did it several times. I didn't have a aftermarket gauge to check it until I put in a new motor.