and i def agree with g14novak it doesnt hurt to spend $20 oil change and some brake fluid

 

Ok, so this morning like I said there was no smoke. Now the car has been sitting for a few hours and I just went to crank it up to gt somthign to eat and it is smoking like it was yesterday.

 

Ok is the motors in the S4 the same as the S5? I only ask cus there is a guy that im talking to that might take a Zex kit I have for a S4 motor. He says it was running when he pulled it out. It would just give me another motor to do this rebuild on insted of having to pull my motor.

 

S4 and S5 are different for a couple small reasons. Mainly, the OMP on the front cover. If you trade him, pull your motor out of your car, change the front cover from yours to the S4 hes giving you, everything should be a-ok. And you'll be able to rebuild your S5 motor if you want. Or you can save up to have a good builder do it. They usually don't have a problem giving credit for your old motor.

 

All of this sounds eerily familiar to what I went through 12 years ago.

B

 

Will my S5 intake and stuff? What im thinking is getting this other motor and stuff. Pulling it down and rebuilding it. Then swaping it all out. But if its not the same I dont want to mess with me. I just thought the S5 and S4 motors them self was the same.

 

S5 used higher compression rotors.

 

If it definately needs a rebuild.
Take this motor out. strip it to just the keg.
Find the closest rotary specialist.

 

Stripped to an absolute shortblock, they pretty much are. But the external accessories are quite a bit different. You'd want to swap the S5 intakes/front cover/etc all over to the S4. There's also a lot to watch out for (ie not dropping the bearing taking the front cover off)

 

When I see ppl with 13B's on a motor stand Its always sitting like on a cradle or somthing. Where do I buy this for my motor stand?

 

Do you mean an engine stand adapter? Try http://www.atkinsrotary.com as they've got a real nice one.

B

 

honestly sho shane it really doesnt sound like you can get the job done i mean im not trying to insult you but having the basics of a rotary and/or difference in motors helps tremendously i would recommend at least pulling the motor yourself and having someone rebuild it for you and if your on a budget last thing on your mind should be port work...
TwEaK

 

I think before you go through pulling the motor and spending all this money go and find someone from this forum that can help you diagnose what it is better and go from there.
Have you changed your oil yet?
HAve you tried brake fluid int eh oil yet?
Have you checked your coolant to see if it went down, or your oil level?
Listen to the people here, most of them know what they are talking about

 

WoW. rebuild rebuild rebuild. i had this problem before. i ended up doing a 13b RE swap. then bought abother one and 3 weeks later it started to do what yours is doing now. i went to the junk yard and purchase a motor there for $100 dollars(short block) with 110k on it. i took my chances there as a noob and it ended up working. after i got the motor in about 1 and a half day into it, i started it up and it started to smoke but after it warmed up for about 10mins i was good to go. it stoped smoking but it only smoked alittle on colder days. compression was ok but then i had the car for about another 9 months and didnt have a problem. sold the car to a buddy of mines and it is still running. they keep telling you to rebuild but that is the right way to do, more time, more money, but garentee to last longer, but then if you find a good deal for a motor just do it take way. if you dont have much money, looking to get it running so you can get around, just get another motor, put it in and save up and rebuild the one the motor what has the blown oil seal. if you are not really familiar to the rotories then do what you would do to a honda. just buy another motor and swap it in. it is cheaper and you can easly do it yourself. this is just by my expeirience.

 

Wow ....

well sho_shane ur not alone on this problem...

when i saw the first video u posted ... well it's the same thing
my 91 na RX7 is doing ...
but since it was white smoke i thought it was a coolant leak
and not an oil leak like
other ppl have been posting.

 

Its for sure oil. I am new to these motors but not motors...

Tweak: I thank you for wanting my stuff to come out right. But I dont have the kinda money it takes to pay someone to do it. I understand that a 13B is not the same as a B16 but I really think that with yall on my side that I CAN do this. Im not someone who has never touched a car. Im just someone who has never touched this kinda car. I checked the rad fluid this morning and it was alittle low. Not bad but a half a cup full at most. I checked the oil and it is where it has been seens I got the car. Oh and the only reason I thought of port work is cus if I have the motor out and tore down whats the big deal with spending a little bit and getting a few extra HP out of a new build?

MZ520: If there is spmeone close to me please tell me who and I will call them right over. I have not changed the oil cus it looks brand new and I will add 1/4 of a bottle of brake fluid in the morning to the oil if you think that will help. do I just put it in and go or do I put it in run a few miles and drain the oil?

Guys im green I get it. But ones you were all green to. You learn by doing and im a very hands on guy. Im poor so paying someone to do it is just not somthing I can aford to do. So unless someone around the texas area has a low miles motor that they want to sell cheap then If it needs rebuilt I have to do it myself.

 

Ok here we go...

Step 1: put the brake fluid in there and drive it.. see if it changes if it doesnt change the oil rings are to far gone.. after that your forced to go to step 2

Step 2: Pull the motor.. and stop running it so you dont cause any damage to the internals, if you honestly have any questions and need a quick response PM your number and i will be more than happy to stay on the phone with you, and explain it.. other than that its pretty basic disconnect. Remove the bolts from the transmission remove (2) 14mm bolts for the motor mounts, under the car remove the (2) oil cooler lines on the right hand side, disconnect your A/c and Power steering lines. Also unplug the spark plug wires.. now go to your left side and remove the intake off the throttle body.. now open your passenger door, look under the carpet your going to find the ECU and unplug the the ECU by this time i hope youve removed the positive cable off the battery so go ahead and unplug the ecu and pull the wiring harness threw the fire wall MAKE SHURE EVERYTHING IS UNPLUGGED! triple check if you have to.. make shure alternator/starter/oil pressure sending unit/coolant temp sensor have ALL been unplugged (it runs on a seperate harness) after that remove your fan/fan clutch/radiator oviously remove your radiator hoses and prepare to pull motor DOUBLE AND TRIPLE check everything theres nothing more annoying when you have the motor 1/2 way in there air and realize you still have stuff connected and/or you pulled and broke a wire...

remember that this is an old car and all the and i mean ALL the wiring in the engine bay is going to be brittle need to be very careful and last but not least your OMP is your oil injection system you will most likely break the lines as it happens quite alot if not be very careful and good luck!
TwEaK

 

Thank you very much tweak. One last time before I go do it, How much brake fluid do I put in it and how long do I drive it befor we know the rings are to far gone?

 

1/4 of a small bottle of the small bottle of brake fluid.

I still vote change the oil to 20w50. $20 in oil is alot better than $1000 for a rebuild. Who cares if it looks new. The first thing you do when you buy a car is change the oil and spark plugs because stuff can look new and still be 15 years old.

 

as everyone has been saying sho shane invest $50 bucks in the car between 4 new plugs, change the oil with Castrol 20w50 get a new filter and put in a 1/4 of a small bottle of brake fluid run it for idk 30min dont expect anything right off the bat might take overnight for the seals to actually swell up.. after that double check all your fluids and see how she does.. if not then back to step 2 as previously said rebuild time
TwEaK

 

Ok ill go buy some oil in a few and cange it to 20W 50, Then ill add the brake fluid to the new oil and ill change out the plugs. But I would say they are working fine if they are burning that much oil. lol

 

Shane im in the same position. i just rebuilt my motor. everythigns new on the inside but the rear housing had alot of wear on it and the ring isn't sealing i took a 50/50 shot on this. you think yours smokes bad lol mine is nuts i should post a video. I haven't tried to do the brake fluid trick yet ive just turned up the boost that should fix it

 

Well post up a vid. Id like to see it. I think if i do have to do a rebuild and then it smokes when i put the new one in I will cry and run the car off a cliff...

 

Do I have to have that adapter for my motor stand or with the motor stand work with out it?

 

Man i have heard of some cheap rebuilds before. BUt thats is because the guy knew a local thats actually knew how to rebild these things.