kllntyme

I have torn my 87 na apart to put in a ported intake. I have discovered that the rear auxilary port actuator is seized. Let me clarify: The bolt on actuator is fine, as is the port sleeve itself, but the rotating bar that goes through the lower manifold is not moving at all. I have a spare set of parts, but I cannot get the damn thing to come out. I have soaked it in liquid wrench and Gunk engine cleaner, to no avail. I am going to put this beast back together tomorrow so that I have a way to work on Monday, but I want to fix this. Please help.

Thanks in advance.

kllntyme

I finally just gave up and decided to use a diffrent lower manifold. I just swapped the mounting studs for the actuators (the old manifold's were bent). If anyone has any idea how to get this damn thing loose though, I'd still like to know. Thanks.

tie pilot

*tap* *tap*

is this thing on?

hi everybody. I have the same problem. I have had the rear actuator rod submerged in PB blaster for over 2 weeks straight, and it still takes a pair of pliers to get the thing to rotate in the LIM. what the heck can I use to get this thing loose?

MRX_Rotary

That's a good idea, try tapping the end of it with a hammer.

tie pilot

tried tapping it. it is breaking up, but S-L-O-W-L-Y. maybe I will tap it some more.

BOFHMike

There are dozzens of posts on how to remove/clean seized actuators and rods, but does anyone have a sure fire way of keeping the rod/port clean in the first place? Or is carbon buildup a result of poor driving habits? Basically my question is what comes first, the Carbon build up or the malfunciton of the actuator? Are all 7's w/ 150k+ miles just waiting to have the LIM removed and rods cleaned?

I'm looking at replaceing my injectors, and if I'm going to have one manifold off, I might as well take the other two hours and pull the other as well and make a weekend out of a top end cleanup.

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

Make sure to get those ports open every drive, redline it a few times a drive

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The assembly can be removed from the intake by taking out the two screws holding the plate on. Then you can use carb cleaner to dissolve all the gunk you can now access. Warm it up, shoot carb cleaner into the joint and then let it cool. The temperature changes will draw the cleaner in.

The ports plug up for various reasons. Carbon buildup is a natural byproduct of burning a hydrocarbon fuel. The secondary injectors spray onto the aux port stuff, and intake reversion (half the point of the aux port system) brings exhaust gasses and fuel into the runners.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Mazda still has not fully alleviated this problem. The Rx-8's have their aux ports operated by a motor, and they still can stick from carbon buildup.

Whatever new motor Mazda comes out with (16X is their current prototype) probably will not have secondary injectors in the LIM. That should help with the carbon buildup at least some. From the pics I've seen so far, there will be primary injectors directly in the rotor housing and then secondary injectors in the old primary injector positions (middle housing).

BOFHMike

I'm not sure what "assembly" you are refreing to, the LIM has 4 bolts IIRC. Are you refering to just removing the actuators? If spraying cleaner into the end of the rod shaft helps, I'm willing to give it a shot!

Thanks for giving more detail on port function. Would injector cleaner help at all? Or is that another waited "hope-in-a-bottle" product? I know one of my ports is not opening, but I'm not sure yet if it's the actuator or the rod that's seized. (will find out this weekend when I get under the hood again.) I also suspect I have at least one injector leaking. (having a hard time starting at times w/o turning off the fuel pump.) I'm wondering if the two issues are related.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Yes, remove the actuators and then remove the two screws holding the rods to the lower intake. From there you can hose it down with carb cleaner, which is designed to remove carbon.

Injector cleaner will not help a failing injector. It needs to be professionally serviced and replaced if necessary.

BOFHMike

I pulled my seized actuator off and I see the plate w/ two phillips screws holding the rod end. I'll try to pull that plate in the morning.


Q: How many degrees of rotation should the rod have? I can turn it a little by hand as it is.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Don't know off hand. I think it turns about 45 degees.

BOFHMike

great stuff! A few squirts of wd-40 and a few light taps on the actuator with a hammer and it's happy as a clam. used my air compressor to apply some air pressure and it actuated back and forth like a charm.

Sprayed some carb cleaner on the end of the rod, let it sit for a few min, moved the end back and forth a few times and it lossend right up and swung nicely about 45d. Sprayed more cleaner at the end, re-attached actuator, put some lithium grease on the actuator and started the 7. Grease moved, thus actuators moved.

I'm a happy camper that I didn't have to pull the LIM.
Thanks!