I'm Lost And Don't Know What To Do. Well I Had My Transmission Change And Now It Has Dramatic Loss Of Power And It Feels Like I'm Forcing It Just Trying To Get It Up To 3,000 Rpm, Normal Driving. The Transmission Shifts Fine Though. Could It Be That Something Was Put On Wrong/ Cricked But What Would It Be. I Got The Transmission From The Junk Yard. The Person That Put It On For Me, After Drive Testing It, Said That It's Not The Transmission That It's The Engine. Before I Had It Change It Was Fine And Ran Strong. The Only Reason I Changed It Was Because The Throwout Bearing Was Bad. I Wasn't So Sure If The Transmission Was Good Either And Decided To Change It Just In Case. He's Going To Take It Out And Check It But Is There Anything Specific He Should Look At First?

 

Clutch release bearing is a < $10 item.
The difference is a bad release bearing will make noise only when your foot is on the clutch.
Bad tranny bearings make noise only when you foot is off the clutch.

First - are you getting a "Check engine" light?

 

Honestly I've Never Seen The Check Engine Light. It Used To Make A Swirling/rotating Sound When The Clutch Wasn't Pressed And When I Did Press It, It Would Stop Making The Noise So That's Why I Changed The Throwout Bearing And If I Remember Correctly It Doesn't Do It Anymore. I'm Not Really That Sure Because I Was Listening To The Way The Exhuast Sounded. It Sounded Different Then Before. The Problem I Don't Get Is That After The Transmission Change It Loss Alot Of Power And Feels Like I'm Forcing It, When I'm Driving Normal, Shifting At 3,ooo Rpm.

 

Your description does sound like tranny noise.

The CEL bulb may be out.
When you first turn on the ignition, before cranking, all the warning lights come on as a test.

I would start by checking the ground wire that bolts on the top rear of the engine and clips to the firewall.
You want clean shinny bright metal-to-metal contact.
If you can't find that ground, add one from the engine block to the firewall.

 

Cool, I'll Check When I Get Home. Is That The Only Thing That Might Cause It Or That You Think Could Cause It. Are You Going To Be On Later Like Around 6:30 And On? Maybe You Could Find More Ideas By One Of Your Friends And I Could Pm You Or Something, You Don't Have To If You Don't Want To Though It's Cool.

 

So Noone Else Knows What It Might Be??

 

You put the spark plug wires on all wrong.

Or for some reason the LEAD coil isn't working because???????????

 

Can You Show Me What You Mean.(about The Cel Bulb)

 

What's The Certain Way To Put The Spark Plug Wires?

 

[QUOTE=SPIKEFC] The Person That Put It On For Me, After Drive Testing It, Said That It's Not The Transmission That It's The Engine. Before I Had It Change It Was Fine And Ran Strong. Are you shure the person that put it in did'nt take it for a wild test drive.

 

The front coil is the LEAD COIL assy. Those two wires can go to either of the BOTTOM sparkplugs. It matters not which. They both fire at the same time.

The rear coil assy is the TRAIL coil assy. The most fwd wire on that assy goes to the top front plug. The rear wire goes to the top rear plug on the engine.

It MATTERS where the trail plug wires go, unlike the Lead wires.

Next to each sparkplug hole is a T or a L embossed on the rotor housing.

On a stock LEAD coil *** there is a L1 or L2 embossed on the coils plastic cover next to the wires.

On a stock TRAIL coil assy there is a T1 or T2 embossed on the plastic cover.

Or as they say on this forum, let the T stand for top and L for lower plug holes.

The 1 is the fwd rotor and the 2 is the aft rotor.

 

Ive Always Had Them The Other Way:

Thefront (lead) Coil Assy On The Top And The Rear (trailing) Coil Assy On The Bottom Even Before The Transmission Change And Ran Fine And Strong. Wierd.

 

Thanks Though Now I Can Change Them. Maybe It Will Run Better. I Don't That's My Problem Though. Well It Doesn't Matter Because I Think He Started Taking It Down Already. (one Of The Saddest Moments In My Life)

 

you mentioned the exhaust sounded funny did it sound like a hollow can, because i had similiar symptoms to this right before my car caught on fire (not to scare you), but i beklieve it was a malfunctioning ACV valve that caused it

 

No It Just Sounds Lower (not As Loud). Now When I'm Driving It, It Makes This Whinding Sound Like If It Was An Electric Car Or Something. Supposebly It's The Alternator. The Car Feels Like I'm Driving It With The E-brake On. Not All The Way Up But Halfway Maybe.

 

Does This Help You Get Any Ideas??

 

Is It Possible For A Transmission To Be Defective Yet Shift Fine. Since I Got The Transmission At A Junk Yard, Plus The Car I Got It From A Car That Had About 170k Miles On It, Could It Not Work Well But Still Shift Fine?

 

Heeeelllllllloooooooo...... Anyone????

 

ummmm ... ouch ...

would you happen to have an s5?

 

No I Have A S4 N/a.

 

In theory you could have a bad tranny that shifted fine ... but I think you would hear grinding etc while in a gear ... definitely check your wires and grounds, it almost sounds as tho as your in failsafe ...

 

What's "failsafe"?

 

Can Anyone Explain This For Me??

 

Does Anyone Know....anyone?

 

Did they remove the flywheel when working on the transmission?

There's no LImp Mode or such on a series four.