Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Ok ok ok. I know what you're all thinking. "Funny Joke Thread" but seriously?

I just read that when re-using apex seals, people have been known to glue in the corner-peice. What harm could come of dropping a little spot of glue on the corner-section, and the very tips of the apex springs? Then drop a little gasoline, or something into the corner-seal recess, and continue rebuild?

After 2 days of cut-up fingers, and bruised knuckles, this doesn't seem like that bad of an idea.

MIND YOU, I'd glue them, and let them sit out for a while ( No RX7Impreza repeats )

Please give me your input.

niner

why cant you put the springs in the normal way?

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

I just don't seem to be coordinated enough. It keeps resulting in a new cut on my hands.... after 2 days... I'm running out of skin to cut.

Atkins 2pc seals SUCK.

zyounker

Super glue is fine for building engines.. alot of engine builders use it to assist in building rotarys..

Using used apex seals is a practice of some engine builders also, just make sure they are in spec. But i sill would recomend buying new seals unless it is a junk motor..


-Zach

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Why are you wanting to glue the springs? There's no reason to.

The glue that Mazda uses on new apex seals is really good - it stays fast even with the spring tension on the corner piece. As soon as you turn the motor over the first time, you can hear the glue let go.

How are you installing apex seal springs?

Dale

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Rotor is in the housing. Front facing front. Corner-peice end up. slide in the smaller spring, everything seams cool. Slide in the larger spring, put on the corner peice, and press down to check that it's got resistance, and it goes all the way down... doesn't come back up

FYI - New Apex's, New Springs.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

BTW Dale, you're @ 100 posts... I'm 3 away from 666

hypntyz7

I dont quite understand this statement...are you saying that once you get all the parts in place, you press down on the apex corner piece(down as in the natural motion of the seal and spring in relation to the rotor) or are you meaningyou press forward on teh whole seal)along the length of the rotor slot towards front of the motor?

Either way, once you get all the parts in there, it doesnt matter what pressure there appears to be or not to be....once it is buttoned up and turning over, it wont matter. that stuff will do its job.

when I install 2pc atkins seals(what I use always) I glue them together first off. I lay them on a level surface, I use an old iron, apply glue to the cleaned surface, mate them, adn wipe off excess, while removing them from teh surface, so as not to let them glue to it. After that I gently lay them on a piece of cloth/papertowel. Later, I trim off any excess glue from teh sides, and be sure they dried straight and level.

Now just install them in the rotor, drop the rotor in, install the small spring, then the large one, then everything else, and youre done. it'll work right when its in place.

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

how can you install the springs AFTER the glued apex is in place? why not drop a little dab of glue on the springs, and put them where they're supposed to be, then rubber band them in place?

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

...nevermind, I think I got it... time to pick up some superglue...

TURB0 II

be a man and cut ur hand up some more

Rpeck

I don't understand why superglue is even neccisary. I drop the long part of the 2 piece apex seal into the grove with the rotor in the housing.. Then I drop the small piece of the 2 piece seal on top of the large piece. The I slide the short spring down... they I use the long spring to snap the small spring in place.. it pushed both edges and the middle of the apex seal into place perfectly.. you hear both springs snap into place and Bam! your done.. It took me no longer than 30 minutes to do all 6 seals like that. Mind you my seals were new 2 piece atkins seals .. but I don't see the differance new or used. The idea of the 2 piece seal is to expand the seal to the full length of the housing automaticly. so it contracts and spreads as needed with engine wear. If you golue the 2 pieces you are deafeating the whole porpose of the 2 piece seals.

zyounker

If you read the posts above it just makes it easier. As soon as you crank the engine over, it breaks the glue, and they are 2 peice again..

Get it?

Rpeck

oops then you pop the corner seal and plugs back in place when your done.

SaabGuy

What the heck is that dancing guy as your avatar??

mazdaspeed7

The problem with justins engine was the type of glue he bought. It stays liquid in air. It only sticks when 2 pieces touch. I heard the superglue break as we wre tightening the tension bolts. But I think there was still liquid there, and it got between the rotor and side housings when we were tightening it. And then it dried, and we got screwed.

For anybody using superglue, get the good stuff. Cyanoacrylate(sp?), and the quick drying kind. That stuff completely dries within a few seconds, regardless of whether air is present or not.

Rpeck

Haha, thats my happy Rx7 owner dancer.

No, i'm not to sure I was browsing a completely unrelated forum and I saw that ... so I stole it, the damn thing cracks me up... part of the charm is that I don't know what the hell it is

Angel Guard Racing Team

Superglue is great for installing used seals.

goblues24

liquid anarchy, what car do you have? i know its not important to the thread just that i used to live in springfield and besides my own the other two owners of 2 gens were my friends. more there now?

good luck

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

My car is still in peices. Issues with the coolant seals.

My car is a Black GTU that you've never seen ( there are 2 others running around ) with a bit done to it. Some of the others I know are.. 4 red N/A's, 3 red TII's, 1 Teal N/A, 2 Blue N/A's, 3 Black TII's, and that's just the ones I know. We're trying to get a club started. We have about a dozen members currently, and have a Scenic Cruise scheduled this Sunday. Some OK, AR, and KC people are supposed to be there.

We'll HOPEFULLY be one of the nationally recognised RX-7 clubs soon. Pics from the cruise will be uploaded and posted in the near-future.



As a side-note. I never used the superglue. Once everyone else left my shop, I tried with it quiet, and heard the click's I was waiting for.

The new situation... I had the engine 80% together, the end housing wouldn't go on. I thought I put the e-shaft on upside down. Took it apart, flipped the e-shaft; realized that the reason the end housing wouldn't go on, was because the key was still in. When I put it BACK together, an outer coolant seal dropped. I coated them with Vaseline (as per the FSM) so they expanded, and wouldn't go back in.

Current Status: 4 New seals ordered (along with a SS clutch hose) from Mazdatrix. Taking the paint OFF of the engine tomorrow (it was too flashy) and taking part in the cruise riding shot-gun with my friend Chris in his S4 N/A, or shot-gun with my friend Matt in his New Yorker (His 86' Base died a few weeks ago, and he doesn't know anyone). All in the life of a College Freshman.

88 SE

Do yourself a big favor and use Hylomar for the o-rings. You'll thank me if you have to tear it down again

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I've been informed in another thred about "How to get the seals to shrink back down, because vaseline makes them expand to all hell"

... well, the thread name wasn't that long... but that was the just of it.