Whats the easiest way to remove a pilot bearing if you dont have a bearing puller? Autozone dosent have the right style, and im trying not to spend 100$ on the tool from mazdatrix.

 

die grinder works just fine.

 

Autozone puller has worked for me, I have used it at least 4 times.

 

it really depends on how deep the bearing is installed in the e-shaft. i have had to cut out more than i have been able to get out with the bearing pullers.

 

I'll try to use the puller first then resort to the die grinder. Is it important to put in a new seal, because the clutch kit i got didnt come with one.

 

no, i rarely use the seal because they only last for a few K miles before they get brittle and the seal is compromised anyways(causing potential other problems like seal material getting into the bearing). just be sure to clean all the debris out of the e-shaft area and input shaft before reassembling. also be sure to lube it up, but don't pack it full of grease, too much isn't good and will collect clutch dust.

 

ok thanks for the advice i was dreading paying 10$ shipping on 2$ seal.

 

Autozone puller has always worked for me.

I just pulled a bearing and seal that had about 120,000 miles on them and the seal was mint. I would always use the seal. personal preference i guess.

 

It's not a $100 tool to pull the pilot bearing unless you buy the Mazdatrix puller.

Here is my thread- https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ng#post8871977


Also, why are you buying $2 part/$10 freight from Mazdatrix that you can buy at NAPA for....$2? You can buy pilot bearings, pilot bearing seals, throwout bearings etc from companies that sell autoparts.

You can also buy transmission seals and rear engine seals at Napa, Orielly etc. Great Idea to replace those while you are in there.


Someone is going to post up and say that the only truly usable bearings and seals have to come from Mazdatrix/Atkins/Pineapple etc.

Do you really think that Mazda's general parts are all that exotic?

 

I see what your saying, but not really. One of the ones I pulled was seated way to far back and I just tightened autozone puller to the max and yanked it out of there. The puller squished a couple rollers out but it came out without too much fuss.

 

I borrowed the mazda tool from a friend when I did mine and it came out like cake...

 

done it with the autozone puller 3 times. Used a grinder to shave it down a bit and put a diff oring on it but it works like a champ

 

I used the autozone puller. I just had to grind down the teeth so it would fit inside the pilot bearing.

Whats the best way to gauge the depth the new bearing and seal should installed?

 

I used a dremel.

 

I used a dremel too.
Be patient and it will grind through the wall. It's stainless steel so take your time and eventually will go through.
Then I used a screw driver to pry it out.
If the pilot bearing is too far deep, there won't be any lip for the removal fork to grab on to. So on next install, don't tap it in all the all down.

 

Yeah dremel works just fine. lol. 3 times so far in my cars and went very smooth and fast. Just be SUPER careful. Not bad @ all.

 

I have the Mazda's official tool.

Completely painless.

 

I'd also recommend getting the mazda's offical tool, I tried using the auto zone version (it was already cut down n stuff but it was useless in the end because the people at auto zone don't take care of their ****)

I used other ways to take out a pilot bearing (like a ghetto rigged coat rack), pain in the *** working under the car trying to stick it in and having enough grip to pull it out

the mazda tool rules, in n out in under a minute

 

fill the hole with grease pack it in use a socket with papers stuffed in it and hit it with a hammer the grease will push the bearing out.

 

I've tried the grease method on other cars. It has never done anything more than just make a mess.

 

Made my own puller similar to the "official Mazda" tool. Works great.

Jackhild-- Did you ever resolve the question of pilot bearing seat depth?

 

I used a rented puller, but you have to make sure that the arms of the puller are very rigid, and use the kind that threads onto a slide hammer.

This is the exact tool that worked well for me:

http://greatnecktools.com/product_in...ecialty-engine

 

I gave a $100 deposit plus $20 for shipping and their time to another forum member...they shipped the Mazda tool to me, I yanked the bearing in 6 seconds, mailed it back, got my deposit back. $20 well spent.

 

I think the Mazda's tool is worth it.

it seems expensive like a hundred bucks. still bought it

and it really saved me tons of time, it works on FC and FE. One day I will get a FD and Im pretty sure it works for that too.

 

I set the pilot bearing in just deep enough that the pilot bearing seal was flush with the end of the eshaft. There is a mazda tool, but I think I used a socket.