gt5oo

Does the flywheel nut have to be removed in order to remove the bearing?
Also how do you remove the bearing itself?

Thanks in advance

Steve

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Oh boy...I just went through this...WHAT A BITCH...

You gotta remove the flywheel. The means removing that huge *** bolt that has 290-360 ft-lbs of torque on it. Then you gotta get the pilot bearing out. That required a bearing removal tool (available at your local auto parts store on the "loan a tool" program).

Wait a stoopid minuite... you DONT have to remove the flywheel...DAMN... I removed mine because the flywheel surface was messed up.

Okay, all you need is the pilot bearing removal tool. Total time to change pilot bearing? about 5- 10 mins.

Jarrett

gt5oo

Im glad to hear that the nut can stay put.
Thanks

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

sorry bout the confusing post...I spaced it for a min. Basically, I took my pilot bearing out. But I did it with the flywheel out. But looking at the back of my other motor, there isnt any reason, I can see, that you have to remove the flywheel.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Yep just get the puller for it and it will pop right out. Works like a charm. Getting the other one in is hard tho... usually take a hammer

Crusader_9x

if ur like me and to cheap to go buy a tool then jsut do this. if u hammer somethiung in there then it will get forced out. like i put a candle in there. then find something that is just small enough to go in he pilot bearing but big enough not to let anything else out between it and the pilot bearing. it. make any since? if so then this is called hydralics and a really easy way to get it out. if not then do a search there is more info about a wooden dowel water and paper towel method that works as well.

scathcart

I use grease and pack it in there, and then use a metal rod I machined to the exact specs of the input shaft. A few taps of the hammer, repack with grease, and retry the dowel, and out it comes.

Grease is the perfect substance for this application, and the rod cost about $1.

marcus219

you all make it sound so easy...if only it was....i must have bad luck.but ive done two p-bearings on a 7...and holy **** were they a pain in the ***
puller doesnt do ****...(one that i got) cuz the end are sharp enough...i used a chizel and a hammer...and a little grinder guy to get it out...i tried the grease trick...and it was good at making a mess and that was it...i heard that trick is only good for cars equipped with pilot busings....its never as easy as people say though.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

man i used a real pilot bearing removal tool i borrowed from a friend, it worked perfect took about 5 miins total. I think it was a snap on tool, i can't remember. But you need to get one that has sharp "fingers" so to speak that will grab and hold the bearing while you turn the screw that pulls it out.

dumarjo

the grease trick work well nut you have to get a rod very tight to the pilot bearing. if you've got a jolie mess..

my 2 cents

Matlock

Full agreement! Grind the ****** out.

scathcart

Yes, you do need to machine the rod very finely. You can not just grind a rod, you have to turn one from a larger stock of steel dowel. If anyone needs it, I could give your the micrometer specs for the rod, or even machine one for you.


This works very well, and it IS just that easy. The Mazda tool is ALSO just that easy.

Grinding them out is retarded. What a waste of time, tools, and risk to your engine.

Matlock

I guess! 10mins is a lot of work!

scathcart

I didn't know work was measured in minutes. I was pretty sure minutes was a unit of measurement of time...

Yes, it takes 10 mins EVERY time you remove one.

It takes all of 10 mins to machine the rod, and about 2 mins to fill the hole with grease, and tap in the rod.
12 mins once, 2 mins every time after that. I have done a lot of tranny swaps and rebuilds on FC's, so this makes more sense to me.

You also need to buy a good carbide bit to grind through the pilot bearing. Carbide bits are an added cost, and more certainly more expensive than steel dowel.

Now... let's also discuss risk. The risk of damaging your e-shaft bore with a grinder and especially a chisel is incredibly high if you are rushing to get the job done in 10 mins. This risk is even more heightened with the engine left inside the car, as it is alot harder to get a straight shot at the pilot bearing. One slip of the hand, and you need a rebuild. Is the gamble worth $1200+ to you? No thanks.

You also have to put up with the noise, clean-up, eye protection, etc.

Yes, it works. But it's like digging a hole by burying dynamite. There are far better ways to get the same results.

Matlock

Mmmm! Wow

ra ra rotory

The pilot bearing removal was the easiest part of doing my clutch. it took like 5 min, is all you have to do is set up the tool, i had to put little peices of wood between so it would fit, but it came out with out any probs....... dont be cheep the tool was like 5 bucks