Pics of my Engine almost done
04-19-04, 08:18 PM
#30
If you install the tranny with engine together you need to make sure it is DAMN STRAIGHT on the hoist. If not you will have a bitch of a time. I had to remove it half way through and readjust it.
Then try and make the front of the engine angle up while the tranny tail shaft faces in a downward angle.
Then use some jacks on the cross member some what centered so the hoist legs don't hit them.
Lift the engine and slowly drop then push in. then repeat like 20 times.
I found it easier to keep the rubber engine mounts off until they were almost ready to go in.(gives a bit more moving room)
Half way through mess with the damn power steering rack and get it on.
Then also conect the Slave cylinder since the tranny is some what still visible making it much easier to connect.
Do a few left and right pushing to wiglle the mounts into alignment and bolt it!
It is very helpful to have a jack right at the tranny crossmember so you can start to straighten out the engine to it's level position.
It was pretty close to my firewall but the only problem really was the AC line on the passenger side. Some little pushes to the engine and it was avoided.
In my mind it's easier to drop the whole thing because you don't have to sit under the damn car dor 30 minutes busting your hands and back trying to reach those bolts.
I just got some bolts from the hardware store(lost mine) and used that red roller seat thing to line up the tranny and the clutch hole thing. Much easier.
Then try and make the front of the engine angle up while the tranny tail shaft faces in a downward angle.
Then use some jacks on the cross member some what centered so the hoist legs don't hit them.
Lift the engine and slowly drop then push in. then repeat like 20 times.
I found it easier to keep the rubber engine mounts off until they were almost ready to go in.(gives a bit more moving room)
Half way through mess with the damn power steering rack and get it on.
Then also conect the Slave cylinder since the tranny is some what still visible making it much easier to connect.
Do a few left and right pushing to wiglle the mounts into alignment and bolt it!
It is very helpful to have a jack right at the tranny crossmember so you can start to straighten out the engine to it's level position.
It was pretty close to my firewall but the only problem really was the AC line on the passenger side. Some little pushes to the engine and it was avoided.
In my mind it's easier to drop the whole thing because you don't have to sit under the damn car dor 30 minutes busting your hands and back trying to reach those bolts.
I just got some bolts from the hardware store(lost mine) and used that red roller seat thing to line up the tranny and the clutch hole thing. Much easier.
04-25-04, 04:59 PM
#31
Pics of my throttle cable for Jrat and the other guys to see so they can hopefully help me
Full engine shot with my temp PVC tubes for tuning the throttle.
Car shot with hood off
The TII ECU with the HKS FCD there and that black box is the 10ohm resistors for the injectors since 2 are high impedance and 2 low imp.
Kind of out of sight on the left is the S4 knock box which I've relocated there so I don't have to put it up in the fender well.
Rear shot with the Cork sport exhaust. What is suprising to me is that the car wasn't really loud and I removed the cat and put in a RB presilencer. It's as loud as my NA was with Cat so I'm happy
Last edited by Digi7ech; 04-25-04 at 05:11 PM.
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