permanent install lm-1
permanent install lm-1
02-19-08, 10:40 PM
#3
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I am doing a permanent install and having a hard time to connect the relay. I need to know what wires people used to get it working. So i need help with wiring the relay. So i dont fry the lm-1. Need to get this done so my ITB Half bridged Na with run to its max.
02-20-08, 12:18 AM
#4
dude you don't need a relay. The purpose of that relay is to make sure the wideband is not getting voltage when the starter is turning over. You can just tap it into the ignition harness and avoid the hassle and complexity.
Look at the factory service manual wiring diagram, page 50-12 (s4 right?), especially on the left side of the diagram. This explains the different circuits on the car and how the ignition harness, located under the steering column cover, triggers them. Hook your LM-1 into the light blue ("L" in the wiring diagram) Accessory wire on the ignition harness. Just strip back some of the insulation (use a stripper, a razor blade, whatever, just be careful and don't cut the wire), then twist the +12V wire around it, then solder and tape it securely. You could probably get away without soldering it if you do a really clean and secure twist job.
According to that FSM diagram, this light blue wire on the accessory circuit does not receive voltage during cranking. This ensures that the LM-1 will be powered down. I run my LC-1 off the blue accessory wire on the ignition harness and have never had any problems.
Look at the factory service manual wiring diagram, page 50-12 (s4 right?), especially on the left side of the diagram. This explains the different circuits on the car and how the ignition harness, located under the steering column cover, triggers them. Hook your LM-1 into the light blue ("L" in the wiring diagram) Accessory wire on the ignition harness. Just strip back some of the insulation (use a stripper, a razor blade, whatever, just be careful and don't cut the wire), then twist the +12V wire around it, then solder and tape it securely. You could probably get away without soldering it if you do a really clean and secure twist job.
According to that FSM diagram, this light blue wire on the accessory circuit does not receive voltage during cranking. This ensures that the LM-1 will be powered down. I run my LC-1 off the blue accessory wire on the ignition harness and have never had any problems.
Last edited by arghx; 02-20-08 at 12:24 AM.
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