any one know where i can find a bolt, thats a vague question, ok the bolt bolts the drive shaft to the lsd, lost one when puttin in a tranny and i need it

 

Salvage yard, the dealer, the parts for sale section on this forum, match existing bolts up to ones at a hardware store.

 

Take one of the other bolts to a hydraulic parts place, and they will match it for you. Being metric, not all stores have them, but hydraulic store will. Also, it is just my opinion from personal experience, never , ever, use a bolt from a salvage yard. Bolts are graded by not only size, but the key is their SHEER. Any used bolt is just that, used.

Considering where the bolt came from, spend the buck, if that much, and get new ONES, period.

PEACE THE DOG

 

thanx

 

"Never, ever use a bolt from a salvage yard" That is horsecrap. You cannot apply blanket coverage over every bolt. Perhaps using a bolt from a salvage yard in high stress position is not the best idea. However, there are many bolts you can reuse as long as they are in good condition.

 

AcidShock, and can you intelligently explain to me how to tell if a 10 year old bolt is in good condition? Clean, threads intact, still original paint on it, what? I personally use at my work, grade 8, 5/8" x 6 " long bolts, coarse thread, that take 16,000 pounds of vertical pressure, without the torque variation of a hydraulic motor producing 80 gallons of oil pressure/minute turning a 5 piston motor. I change those bolts once an hour during my operation of my equipment.

You keep getting your bolts from used cars, and I'll spend the extra buck on NEW bolts. Next time, post something you really have a tad bit of knowledge about.

PEACE THE DOG

 

Maybe you misunderstand me... you made a blanket statement about using used bolts. That is why I said that is horsecrap. You cannot just say that for every application you need a brand spanking new bolt, screw, what ever it may be. That would be a waste of time and money. Maybe in a job you can do that but if you have a pile of nuts and bolts hanging around in good condition or scavanged, there is no sense why you cannot use those bolts in non-high stress applications.

I am not going to get in a pissing match over this, you have your opinion and I have mine.

 

Just make sure that the bolt you get, if you get it from a hydraulics shop, has the same shoulder as all the other bolts and is also the same grade steel....

 

Good luck finding a metric, shouldered, grade 10 bolt. Either the dealer, or a parts car will be your best choice, and I have doubts about dealer availiblity.

 

Great point Funk, and my appologies to you Acid. My point was simple-considering the location of the bolt 2rotorkid is replacing, I personally wouldn't replace that lost bolt with a used one. It is probably my personal experience with seeing a bolt sheer holding 2200 pounds of an auger, shaft, and coupler falling from 65 feet coming at me, made me realize that a buck is not worth chancing. Ever seen a drive shaft come lose and catch an edge before? I have. And I personally , like you said it our own opinions, wouldn't replace ANY bolt in a "high stress application" with a used one.

PEACE THE DOG

p.s. As I have posted several times to other members, 2rotorkid, if money is that tight, I will be happy to send you the money for the part.

 

wow what an argument,

 

"Grade 10"?
Metric is usually graded "8.8" or "10.9" for higher strength stuff.
I believe the 10.9 = SAE "Grade 8", and the 8.8 = SAE "Grade 5"?


-Ted

 

ReTed, I am aware of your being very specific on SAE and metric grades, why by the way, you're almost correct, but my point is simple: spend the extra aluminum can money on new
bolts, not used. And correct me if I am wrong, SAE=coarse or fine, metric=coarse or fine, but pitch. And as far as common physics is concerned, a fine/less pitched bolt is stronger than a more pitched bolt= metric.

PEACE THE DOG