2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Parents are gonna be so pissed when they come back...

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Old 09-09-07, 09:18 AM
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its a yellow cable with a white pin on the passenger side right?
Old 09-09-07, 10:51 AM
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you can also unplug the fuel pump or pull the main fuse in the block under the hood on the drivers side, all of these will keep fuel from going into the engine, and some may be easier to reach than others.

pull one of these, floor the gas and crank it til it seems to catch a little (or for about 10 second spurts w/ about 20 sec in between to avoid overheating the starter). after that, crank for an additional 5 sec or so, replace the fuse or plug in the pump, and give it a shot.
Old 09-09-07, 11:46 AM
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hey anas, this is morgan... pull the EGI fuse like we were doing.

and have you found anyone with the settings for the SAFC yet?
Old 09-09-07, 12:01 PM
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Ya know if one of my boys had tried that I would be angry they didn't ask for my help more than angry there were 2 dead cars in the driveway.... fortunately i have a couple years till I'm faced with this one.
Old 09-09-07, 12:28 PM
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you can also unplug the fuel pump or pull the main fuse in the block under the hood on the drivers side, all of these will keep fuel from going into the engine, and some may be easier to reach than others.
The main fuse in the engine bay is bolted in. So its not vary easily removed. The best would be to disable the fuel pump relay or disconnect the fuel pump connecter, like you were saying, in the hatch on the drivers strut tower. Pulling the engine fuse will also disable the ECU, I also think it disables the ignition. Disabling just the fuel pump will allow the engine to start once the AFR becomes well enough.

and have you found anyone with the settings for the SAFC yet?
I posted the settings.
Old 09-09-07, 03:51 PM
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It's right under the dash on the driver's side, it does have a yellow connector i do believe.
Old 09-10-07, 12:30 AM
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B4 the engine in my first fc blew up on me it flooded all the time, I had much luck in the past with pulling the yellow connector under the driverside dash and as soon as it starts push that bad boy back in .
Old 09-10-07, 04:03 AM
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Wow, you sure did have one hellva week.
You are a rx7 owner alright ..haha.. I can foresee your kungfu becoming strong with this. Keep this 7 finally :P or i will pay some one to go down there to kick your ***
Old 09-13-07, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
I posted the settings.


so he just changes those settings and leaves the rest default? or will he have to go thru them all and set them to 0?
Old 09-21-07, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by anasopia
thanks for all the comments and advise...just patiently waiting for my friend to show up with his wiring tools to hook up the SAFC properly, I cranked the engine with the egi fuse out for 30 seconds... I'm gonna wait till I properly connect the SAFC b4 I try starting it again... I've been depressed since the engine didnt run properly... but I've learnt many new lessons with this...
I hope this Rx7 isnt as cursed as my last 2 :p
I had 2 S4s...and my swaps resulted in seized engines.. cause the shell I used was cursed!!! and the people that helped me only cared about picking up the parts left from the other car...
just to clear things up.i was one of the 2 guys that did a swap for him.twice.and not once did we charge him anything.we spent long hours working on it and working with making things work since he wouldn't replace anything cause he said he's broke.so we never charged anything for the work we did.and for the second swap,we we're pulling the old motor while he went to whistler for the weekend w/ his girlfriend.

now,if that was me and someone was doing all this work for nothing,every time they start wrenching on it,i would be there aswell.

and for the parts from the old car,all we got was a diff and a dead motor.we didn't even get any decent parts from it since most had to go on the other shell.

and by the way,the condition that he worked out w/ my friend who owned the shop before we started the 2nd swap was we would do the work in exchange we get to keep any parts left over from the old shell.and we didn't get around to taking the diff out till 2 weeks the motor was bolted up to the "new" shell.
Old 09-21-07, 06:23 AM
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That comment wasn't specifically in reference to you, but since u brought it up again...

The trip to Whistler was a school co-op conference, and was after the swap was done, and it was paid for by the school. ( I told you this.)

I left during the swap to Toronto for family reasons, and I told them. and I came back. it was 2 days. I don't have to explain details. ( I told you this.)

I was there for most of the wrenching, and helped as much as I could.

With whatever money I had left over, I took them out for Wendy's a couple of times..

For the parts, the car had brakes, calipers, and rotors, tail lights, the diff along with anything else I've forgotten, but because there was no goodies, anything I needed, or wanted to sell to recoup any of the money spent on the two swaps, I got attitude and I was told that they were the "payment"... I was a fool to think it was Genuine free help. - I know realize that it does exist, but its only free for so much. ( and I was an idiot to expect otherwise... the things I still have to learn... sheesh)


there was never a "condition" with the friend. he had just gotten the place, and he offered we do it there, and I offered the parts as a token of appreciation... thats what I posted on the forum... "for anyone who helps, they can have whatever is left after" or something like that... but if I need it, doesn't mean its theirs...

BTW... when the guy who's place we used for the swap had his car broken into, I offered him the hood from my white one for free... and the mirrors... which he took, and used.

and when I went back looking for some of the limited tools that I had, he said he knew nothing about them, and later accused me of scouring for his tools

I appreciate the help I got, but some people help genuinely, and some help for their own reasons.

Life goes on... if I want to fix my car from now on, I'll ask for advice on the forum, and do the work myself, if I cant, I take the car to a shop. its how it should be, and if I cant afford to, I park the car, save my money, then take it to a shop. Lesson learned.
Old 09-21-07, 07:37 AM
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so he just changes those settings and leaves the rest default? or will he have to go thru them all and set them to 0?
The SAFC settings should be all factory defaults if he disconnected it. So the LO and HI maps should already be zeroed out but if not, he should zero them out.

BTW, if the AFM wires to and from the SAFC are not making good contact, the engine could easily flood. Well, now I am talking about a Series4, Series5 may not start at all if this happend but I don't know. When my SAFC was stolen, that left the AFM wires OPEN which would make the car flood but I was able to get it started but It would run so damn pig rich that I couldn't get it over 1500 or so and it would puff out tons of black smoke. I had to get down to the ECU and I was smart by using spade connectors on the AFM wires to and from the SAFC so I just had to disconnect the SAFC harness and plug the 2 AFM wires together and she run fine after that.

For that very reason, I would either install a small toggle switch on the AFM wires to jump from SAFC to AFM, or use spade/butt connectors on that AFM wires.

Last edited by RotaMan99; 09-21-07 at 07:44 AM.
Old 09-21-07, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by anasopia
That comment wasn't specifically in reference to you, but since u brought it up again...

The trip to Whistler was a school co-op conference, and was after the swap was done, and it was paid for by the school. ( I told you this.)

I left during the swap to Toronto for family reasons, and I told them. and I came back. it was 2 days. I don't have to explain details. ( I told you this.)

I was there for most of the wrenching, and helped as much as I could.

With whatever money I had left over, I took them out for Wendy's a couple of times..

For the parts, the car had brakes, calipers, and rotors, tail lights, the diff along with anything else I've forgotten, but because there was no goodies, anything I needed, or wanted to sell to recoup any of the money spent on the two swaps, I got attitude and I was told that they were the "payment"... I was a fool to think it was Genuine free help. - I know realize that it does exist, but its only free for so much. ( and I was an idiot to expect otherwise... the things I still have to learn... sheesh)


there was never a "condition" with the friend. he had just gotten the place, and he offered we do it there, and I offered the parts as a token of appreciation... thats what I posted on the forum... "for anyone who helps, they can have whatever is left after" or something like that... but if I need it, doesn't mean its theirs...

BTW... when the guy who's place we used for the swap had his car broken into, I offered him the hood from my white one for free... and the mirrors... which he took, and used.

and when I went back looking for some of the limited tools that I had, he said he knew nothing about them, and later accused me of scouring for his tools

I appreciate the help I got, but some people help genuinely, and some help for their own reasons.

Life goes on... if I want to fix my car from now on, I'll ask for advice on the forum, and do the work myself, if I cant, I take the car to a shop. its how it should be, and if I cant afford to, I park the car, save my money, then take it to a shop. Lesson learned.

you're a dewsh!!
Old 09-21-07, 09:59 PM
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hey man when i ask my buddies to help with my 7 its no questions asked i stay and help unitl its done i either kick them down a few bucks and or take them out to dinner and get them wasted . no matter what always show your appreciation to the ones who help . just my too cents but to each their own....
Old 09-21-07, 10:44 PM
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^^exactly.
Old 09-21-07, 11:32 PM
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I showed my appreciation as much as I could, and I said thank you every night. when both swaps didnt work out, I just shrugged, I was there pretty much all the time sept for two nights.
my mistake was making that comment without much thought, and not making sure everyone was wasted by the end.
Old 09-22-07, 12:27 AM
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Hopefully 80 compression on the rotors are just a result of the flooding. But the list goes somewhat like this.... 80-90 compression is on life support, 90-100 is alright and should be good for a bit, 100-115 which is the maximum i believe is very good. So obviously the best would be 3 bounces reading 35psi.
Old 09-22-07, 02:37 AM
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so if the engine is really flooded, then the compression numbers are much lower?
Old 09-22-07, 02:41 AM
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^^ Yes.
Old 09-22-07, 06:37 AM
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SOOOO True! My brother and I have been into Rx7s for 15 years. He currently 3 of them, one of which is an 91 parts car that is currently sitting in my parents backyard.

My dad is bitching at him continuously to get the damn car out of the backyard, or he's going to call the tow truck. Claims the stress is taking years off his life.

Funny thing is, he too has owned several rx7s and now has an rx8.

</end hijack>



Originally Posted by dean23
HAHAHA. i just love the fact that you bought 2 cars while they were gone... thats a true rx7 owner.. hahahaha.

id say biiger injectors on the swapped engine, hence the safc.. try to get it all hooked up correctly and give it a go.. or swap injectors and run the older ecu with the newer engine and the injectors from the older engine..
Old 09-22-07, 08:31 AM
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haha, my dad was so relieved when I got rid of the rx7s.. b4 he left, he was so happy... cause we had a talk, and I told him that I realized what I did wrong...( I was thinking: gotta be sure everything is working b4 i swap an engine in) and he thought (finally, he realizes that rx7s are a waste of time and money, and will never touch those things again)
he came back, and u should have seen the look on his face when I told him about the car... he thought I was joking... but I sat down with him and showed him the numbers on this deal, I havent lost a penny yet. just time on this car, so hes ok with it... I bought myself a 2 week extension :p

I get the Tokico Illumina shocks today, pair them up with my ground control springs, install my sway bars, and clean up my wheels and put them on.

waiting on upper intake manifold gasket replacement... had to get it from the states.

I guess I forgot to mention that I deflooded the engine and got it started.

but there was a vacuum leak, so I had to take the manifold apart to find it and plug it up, we'll see the results when the gasket comes in. fingers crossed!

also picked up a dual alternator pulley since I took off the water pump.

also removed power steering and anti freeze tank... lotsa space to work with now!

I have a question, there are two hoses that plug into the power steering unit, how do I properly remove those with the engine still in?
I read over how to properly remove the power steering, but I wont bother doing the whole process...
Old 09-22-07, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
The main fuse in the engine bay is bolted in. So its not vary easily removed. The best would be to disable the fuel pump relay or disconnect the fuel pump connecter, like you were saying, in the hatch on the drivers strut tower. Pulling the engine fuse will also disable the ECU, I also think it disables the ignition. Disabling just the fuel pump will allow the engine to start once the AFR becomes well enough.


I posted the settings.
RotaMan99 ... You're frickin awesome!!!! it worked!! it worked!!! ... car started up, went to 3000, started to drop, finally tried to get to 750, fluctuated and died... vacum leak...

working on getting that fixed... my middle intake gasket is on... but my upper one wont be in till Wednesday, I wonder if the Gasket sealant sold at crappy tire would be good enough to do the job?
Old 09-22-07, 09:18 AM
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you do realize that holding the gas pedal down and crank the engine is a way to un flood the car? on the s5's, it clears out a flooded engine by not injecting any fuel.
Old 09-22-07, 10:28 AM
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you do realize that holding the gas pedal down and crank the engine is a way to un flood the car? on the s5's, it clears out a flooded engine by not injecting any fuel.
Believe it or not, on a bad flooded engine, that doesn't always work.

RotaMan99 ... You're frickin awesome!!!! it worked!! it worked!!! ... car started up, went to 3000, started to drop, finally tried to get to 750, fluctuated and died... vacum leak...
Fantastic! Glad to hear it

Did you power up the fuel pump once the engine started or did you not have time and the engine died because the fuel pressure dropped to zero?
Old 09-22-07, 11:03 AM
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wait...so why did you remove the water pump?


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