To lessen the anger your parents will have, i'd atleast get rid of the crashed fc before they get back. Just take what u want off of it and junk it. And listen to Jaiyurai he's posted the most helpful of post so far.
Are you sure the motor only sat for a few months? Ifso that isnt an issue as 2-3months isnt gonna hurt a thing. Hell i just started my car after 2+yrs of storage but it was stored properly.

 

well considering the afc is hooked up, upgraded injectors sound about right. Go ahead and make sure you've got all of ur wires landed on the ecu right. Then swap out the afm's cause of could be bad cause ur car to die. Your gonna also wanna check the compression for laughs cause its cheap and ez to do. It will answer alot of questions. If your compression is good, check afm, pressure sensor etc. If u cant figure it out, pick up some stock 550 injectors, disconnect the AFC and re splice all the wire on the computer to the harness color for color. PS: Make sure theres actually fuel going. It could just be a bad pump

 

Why is everyone suggesting this? If you see a SAFC in ANY rx7 you automatically think they have upgraded injectors? You don't think they added it to straighten out the AFR with stock injectors?

On startup the ECU does not use the AFM. As long as there is under 3.8v from the AFM, if im remember correctly, at the AFM input on the ECU, the engine should start and the ECU runs off a default map for short period of time then switches to the AFM. Their are only a few ways the AFM could allow the engine to not start. A) There is over 3.8v on the output of the ECU, B)The fuel pump switch in the AFM is bad which I can't see happening from the way its designed, C) the flapper is jammed.

Other then that the AFM plays almost no role in the startup.

If this is on a Non Turbo, then the injectors should be 460cc injectors

There is a 2 prong yellow fuel pump check connector near the AFM. Jump that and you should hear the fuel flow through the lines. This does not energize the injectors

 

If it ran its not a vacuum leak. like someone mentioned before, if it was a vacuum leak it would start but die immediately. If i were to troubleshoot i would do the following in this order:

1) check for fuel. jumper yellow connector near the boost/pressure sensor and turn the key to ON. You should hear fuel flowing through the lines. If not, the fuel pump is probably too corroded. You can also open the gas cap and smell for bad gas. it will smell like apple juice if it is bad.
My bet it has something to do with bad gas and a corroded fuel pump, especially if the car has been sitting a while. If the gas and fuel pump seem ok then continue:
2) fully unflood the engine. Sometimes they will flood so bad, the egi trick wont work. So do the following:
-Take lower spark plugs out.
-remove engine fuse from drivers side kickpanel. this turns off the fuel pump
-turn engine over at WOT for 10-15 seconds. If its flooded you should see a mist of gas come out (dont do it too long at once or you will burn out your starter).
-put small amount of 2-stroke oil into lower spark plug holes
-replace/clean spark plugs and reinstall.
-reinstall engine fuse.
-try to start like normal and it should if it was flooded
if it starts, it probably has leaky injectors. A cheap workaround is installing a fuel cut switch. every time you want to turn the car off, just flip the switch to turn off the fuel pump
if it still doesnt start:
4) check for spark. easy to do, just pull the leading (L1, L2) spark plug wires and see if you see spark when someone turns the engine over3)
5) swap ecus back to the way it was when it started
6) take out SAFC. It is not needed for it to run, even with bigger injectors. My TII had no problems starting at all when it was using 750cc primaries with the ecu configured (rtek) for 550s
7) have it hauled to a scap yard. maybe you can get your moneys worth in the metal value

 

Yes it could still be a vac leak. My engine will run with a vac leak and never die out and actually even 2 vac leaks it will run off of but eventually die out. It really depends on the size of the vacuum leak and how lean the engine is running as well. A rich idling engine could actually idle better with a vac leak.

EGI fuse in the engine bay turns off the injectors

 

Actually just to correct my self here. This will still allow the engine to start and run for about 3 seconds but die immediatly after.

 

ok, so I just tested for spark, and my trailing coil wasnt producing any spark... (the one near the firewall right?)
sparkplugs all work, but there is no spark from coil, I replaced the coil with another one, and it still didnt work, it is plugged in properly, and the plugs are not dirty...

what should I do now?

- the fuel pump works, and there is gas, and fuel is delivered to the engine, no problem.

 

but it also turns off spark i believe. either fuse will do the job, but i like to pull the engine fuse so you still have spark to help burn off all the fuel

you dont need trailing ignition for it to start, as long as both leading coils (near battery) work, it should run fine

 

I tweaked the settings of the safc, and it started.. then died... how do I set it properly? is there anywhere that has information on the proper settings?
I checked the engine management section.. nothing there.
I have the following engine mods:

Ported Throttle Body
Port Matched Intake Manifold
Modified Lower Intake Manifold
K&N Cone Air Filter
Custom Catback Dual Exhaust

 

the best way to properly set up the safc is open the lid to the garbage and put safc in said container.j/k your car should run fine on the stock ecu, if you dont have a wideband, you cant really tune anything, you can make it run but you are risking your motors lifespan.

 

I got the crashed fc towed last night to a friend's farm... and I picked up a pressure washer and cleaned the drive way and the whole outside of the house while I was at it... , cleaned up the garage, and made sure that it all looked nice when they open the door... I also finished cleaning up the whole house, never realized how big it was ... now its time to shower, shave, and head to the airport... we just moved to this house, so I had the task of moving everything in while they were on vacation...
its all nice, clean, and tidy, I added some downy for that fresh smell when I washed my clothes... I hope all that can balance out with having the fc in the garage... I'll find out soon I guess eh.

I will be uploading pictures of the swap, and b4 and after shots and such.... :p

wish me luck!!!

 

i hate to sound like im copying everyone else but it seems to me that u are dumping too much fuel to the motor check what size fuel injetors u have

i dont kno how u are checking for spark but sometimes its hard to see in the daytime i usually do it with the lights in the garage off

 

You can usually hear the spark. If the plugs are bad and are not sparking, removing the wire from the coil to check spark will yeild no results since there is no plce for the current to go.

Try taking the spark plug out and leave the spark wire on the coil and plug, place the plug on the negitive terminal on the battery or any good ground spot and you should see sparks jumping.

The engine should still start and run just fine without the trailing plugs. You just wont have as much power.

 

WHAT A DAY!
parents got back, family is finally home, they were so happy with what I've done, I made sure to tell them about the car really early on... then I showed them the house and what I've done, dad was really pissed that I'm "wasting all my money" on rx7s again, but he got over it, and it didnt turn out too bad after all. I just gotta get it running again now, I contacted the previous owner today, and asked him about the settings he was running with, I should propably get him to come over and help me set it again since hes local (I think), I want to get the car running first, then I want a shop to tune the safc properly.

I'm gonna check the FSM for trailing coil connection and check the path (follow the crums)

I still need the stock settings for SAFC for the rx7 89... anyone know?

 

congrats man. i know your pain the look of dismay on my parents house when i pulled up in a white t2 was priceless. im glad they took it pretty well.

 

The settings on the SAFC are as follow

Flap 06/06
TPS arrow pointing up-right

Correction: Zero accros the board on high and low maps.

 

haha that sucks...if it were my parents, i would be grounded by my mom, and then my dad would raise my allowance lol

 

+1 on some things

If it has been flooded.
1. Take the Fuel IGN. fuse off on the driver strut tower. Crank engine for a good 5 seconds. Put fuse back on and the car should be "unflooded"
2.If it still wont crack. "unflood" it again. Put oil through the spark plug holes.(search it)

Fuel will dry out seals. so oil helps build compression again.

 

I am having a hard time figuring out why you are able to swap motors but not track down vacuum leaks. I had the leaks thing down way before I swapped my first. My guess is you haven't hooked everything up correctly.
First I would check the ground on your motor/tranny. I had one of these loose on a car I bought from a repo lot, It was the hardest thing to find, but the symptoms were similar.
Check that and the vac leaks.

 

So.. did you ever get compression numbers? Just curious...

 

I just tested for compression,
Front (farther from firewall) read 80PSI after deflooding, and 90PSI with some oil put in through the top spark plug
Rear (Near Firewall) read 70PSI after deflooding, and 80PSI with some oil put in through the top spark plug

what does that translate to? I'm F'd? I think the PSI im looking for is around 120 right?

 

Yeah, 80/70 does seem low, I think 100+ is the norm. The FAQ might have that info, I'll take a quick look just to make sure.

 

85 is replacement limit but it's been flooded so long you cant really get a decent reading really.

It sounds as though it is severly flooded. Try to pull start it, it sounds like what happened to my first NA.

Also, is what helped me, is this...

Under the dash, there is the main relay, it can control power to the fuel pump.

Is what i did is I unhooked it, just pulled it out, just barely enough so it wouldnt turn anytthing on, and turned the car over, whenever the car sounded like it wanted to start id put it back in immediately.

After about 5 minutes fooling with that it started.

You may also want to try installing a fuel cut switch.

Also, make sure the center part of the spark plugs arent rounded, if they are, you need new plugs.

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

I had my doubts because the engine was flooded for so long indeed, and everytime I pulled the spark plugs out, they were SOAKED!!

where exactly under the dash is the main relay? is it driver or passenger side, what color is it?

 

Yellow