could overtightening ( 180ft lb + ) the front pully bolt cause my motor to seize ? its extremely hard to turn the motor over... still turns but its very hard

 

sure that you didn't loosen the E-shaft bolt/front pully without holding the clutch in???

 

that will drop the needle bearing, and you'd be in for it!

 

hmmm...... I used my impact gun(350ft lbs) several times on my n/a did no harm. Just did it on my T2, cranks over fine. So did u keep the e-shaft in place when you removed the pulley?

 

The roller bearings (not needle bearings) have a spacer in the center of the race that probably came out. I've taken the front pulley off before without problems but see where it could happen. I hope you havent started the car like that. Pull the pulley and look in the hole to see if the roller bearings have fallen behind the spacer. Its not too late if you didn't start the motor.

 

already cranked it and had it started for 2 minutes then it seized up..

 

time to pull your front cover and replace some stuff.

 

would this cause my motor to seize up... well its hard to turn ...

 

if the bearing dropped and you radically over torqued the bolt (80lbs and a little blue loctite is all it needs), yes it would be hard to turn.

You should read this link again, if you loosened the e-shaft front bolt without the clutch being jammed in:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

was tghe car in neutral when you started it or just had the clutch released?

If it was in neutral you might have done more harm than just the endplay bearings.

 

neutral

 

i spun it counterclockwise to see if it was any easier to spin and it was alot easier to spin counterclockwise..... does this mean anything?

 

well, you're not building pressure that way. well, as much pressure....

I forget how much room the e-shaft has to wiggle before colliding with the side gear housings. You might be ok if you just replace the roller bearings and their races.

Anyone with more motor building experience want to chime in here? Think he mashed the e-shaft into the bearing races/side gears or not?

 

We have already talked about it, and according to him the motor pretty much locked up at speed. The only other time(s) I have seen this were due to oil starvation; front main adn rotor bearing lock down on the e-shaft. once was due to a busted oil line, once an assembly error during rebuild involving the small key on teh oilpump shaft (not my rebuild btw). I am familiar with the problem with the front thrust bearing, adn though this can lead to a lot of endplay and some odd noises, I cant see it locking a motor up, or even causing enough restriction to make it stumble enough to die and not turn smoothly afterwards.

There is no way to know for sure w/o tearing the motor apart. One could start by taking the front cover off and checking everything; if that stuff is all in place, you can pretty much guarantee the problem is internal. IF you found a bad thrust bearing, you could replace it and try again. IF you found a problem with the oilpump you'd have to assume there was internal damage anyway and take it the rest of the way apart.

BTW< my offer from the other night of inspecting and building you a good motor with a guarantee for under $1000 still stands...

 

ya hypntyz7 rite now im just hoping its something easy if i take off the front cover and replace all those things and its still messed up... guess whos gonna be rebuilding me a motor im just hoping that god will have some pity on a 16yr old.....

 

You'll be able to tell if the motor locked from the endplay or something else by removing the associated pieces of the front cover and internal assembly. you could take the thrust bearings out and then try to rotate the motor and you should be pretty well informed at that point if you need to dig further.

Forgetting the key in the e-shaft is a pretty big "oopse." damn....

Kevin, You wouldn't happen to have an extra turbo dipstick do you? I forgot to ask for one when I bought that spare tire off ya on ebay.

 

turbo dipstick? hell I got plenty of dipsticks, but I have never really differentiated between NA and t2. I guess the t2 version is about 2" longer then?

 

mazdatrix even calls them needles

"Here comes the rest of the damage--
The spacer can actually be dented by the needles of the torrington bearings."

needle torrington bearings...

 

I was thinking those were roller bearings because of how thick they are, but you are right they're needle bearings as they have no hollow center.

The turbo dipsticks are actually the shorter of the two.

 

parts should be coming from mazdatrix in the next few days ill tell everyone how it goes..

 

What happend with this thing?

 

replaced the front torrington bearing and thrustplate they were smoked... motor is still sezied :*(

 

Not good Sorry man.