2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

overheating (searched)

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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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overheating (searched)

not the water pump, not the thermostat, what is it???

EDIT:not the fan either, and water circulation is good, radiator not clogged
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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please halp meh
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:55 PM
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dont ask for help in the for sale section go post in the 2nd Generation forums.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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holy crap my bad, i jus clicked 2nd gen specific, didnt know it was in the FS section... can a mod move my post please
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 11:46 PM
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come on its simple right
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 12:02 AM
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the only thing you didnt name is air in the system lol so check that are you sure the waterpump belt isn't sliiping?
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by turboIIrotary
the only thing you didnt name is air in the system lol so check that are you sure the waterpump belt isn't sliiping?
i doubt air in the system, no idiot buzzer, i dunno, its not even my car, and this dude says he did check all that ****, i guess could be, ill have to check tomarrow....

EDIT: belts good, no slipanagationizing
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 03:12 AM
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What kind of fan are you running? A lot of electric fans cant put out as much as the stock clutch fan. Overheating at stops?

What about the heater core?
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 07:12 PM
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stock clutch fan, heater core bypassed... you think that could be why? the heater core is bypassed on my fc and it doesnt overheat
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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My heater core was so old, when I went to either take off the hose or putting the new one on, It created a small leak in it. It was actually barely dripping down the firewall

Find a cooling system pressure tester, that is the best way. Your coolant levels good?
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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coolant level is superb, and greener than ****
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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A tempurature gun to check the temps at thermostat, before and after radiator, engine block wouild be nice
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 08:03 PM
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i could see the coolant gettin sucked down when we started it, doesnt have a thermostat i guess... anyways i put more water in after it went down and capped it. so, the water pump works so im assuming that its going through the motor right??? and the radiator is fairly new he says...
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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did you open the top of the radiator before filling? if you didnt, it wont allow coolant to go in the engine fast enough
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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are you using a mazda thermostat?
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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How about a blown coolant seal??
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by initial D is REAL!
did you open the top of the radiator before filling? if you didnt, it wont allow coolant to go in the engine fast enough
i opened the top cap, started the car, then it got sucked down
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by VacavilleFC
are you using a mazda thermostat?
no thermostat
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Killert2
How about a blown coolant seal??
no
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by runscrappy_FC3S
dude i gotta get my posts up
Still working on that post count?

Don't bump your post on the tech section.
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by runscrappy_FC3S
no thermostat
why not?
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 01:19 AM
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haha you need a thermostat im sure that has something to do with it
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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yeup, if you dont run a thermostat, u run a restrictor plate
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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yea put a thermostat back on there.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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you need a thermostat in there. it restricts the water flow for a reason, otherwise the pump just cannot pump that much water at once, and you end up with hot spots in the motor. If the tstat doesn't fix it, by next best guess would be a plugged rad, but i'd be willing to bet its because you have no thermostat
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