rx7vadim

i was drifting my 2nd gen on a hot day and temp. went up really quick, too quick to notice..i use a mech water guage, once i saw the temp i stopped and let cool whle running, tonight i checked if i was getting bubbles in filler neck and everything seems ok., ive heard of others overheating and not demagingwater seals, but 250 deg. i thought they were done..

13b4me

220 degrees is when they start to fry... You may have gotten lucky... Check for smoke...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

230 is about as hot as i like to see but on a rare occasion an engine may be able to take 250F without damaging anything. consider yourself lucky is all i would say and fix whatever your problem is.

rx7vadim

no smoke, everything seems ok, the temp sensor is at the filler neck, so those are higher temps then temp of water going to water pump. the water going from raditor down to pump should be at least 20 deg. cooler

turbine

iTrader: (1)

220 is not when they start to fry i see thoes temps all the time when racing hard
i start dumping fuel at 230 for saifty with the haltech
but i think 250 260 is where your seals can pop

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i have my timing maps trimmed post 225 and then start dumping fuel at 230.

-=1OneShotNO2=-

how far up the temp gauge is 250?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

probably about the line before H, the stock gauge isn't all that accurate up there though so it probably could be anywhere past 3/4 on the gauge.

13b4me

I based that off the assumption that it was a stock vehicle with 20yo seals, since no information suggesting otherwise was given... Once the seals have been put through the stress of 15+ years worth of driving, it wouldn't be unreasonable to think it would take less heat to make the rubber bands pop... I've seen old tired engines lose a coolant seal @ 210deg, and I've seen others bury the needle and not smoke a bit...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

when a seal is ready to go it will go regardless of temp, most of the time the irons are the same way, one day they just decide to start puking coolant into the overflow.

wrankin

Does anyone have a link or just a quick summary of what the needle positions on the stock temp gauge correspond to on an S5? I have a track FC that I just got and I believe that the cheap aftermarket gauge is reading way high. I wanted to compare it to the stock gauge.

I'm too used to the stock gauge on my FD, which I effectively ignore now - I have a decent aftermarket gauge on *that* car, for obvious reasons .

Thanks,

-b

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

I overheated my 2nd gen cosmo re once to the point my wolf3d handheld controler said 123*C (not a typo) which converts to 254 F

car runs fine still, although the oil was like water when i changed it the next day.

Scary scary stuff

13b4me

1/2 is ~ 180-190deg IIRC

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

S5 and S6 are basically the same gauge, they read 1/2 in a range approximately 180-235F and begin to move up after that, basically right before the engine starts to melt.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the stock gauge basically has three positions:

Cold
Warm
New Engine

My own overheat/new engine story:

I had the temp shoot up real high all at once a while back, and I wasn't even driving hard, just driving to Pep Boys to buy some oil. It turned out that the hose from the water pump to the turbo had sprung a pinhole leak, letting pressure escape, losing fluid, and causing what was left to boil. Since I was at Pep Boys anyway, I got a new hose and some coolant, fixed her up, and everything seemed fine.

I then headed down to Hyperfest 2004 to participate in driver's ed, and the car ran like a beast all day saturday with no problem. Sunday, I had another loss of coolant, this time it was a radiator cap blown off. That one was fun as it leaked coolant everywhere, including under my back tires, which caused an awesome spin in turn 5.

Put on a new cap, refilled coolant, everything seemed fine again for the drive home.

Halfway back, lost another radiator cap, and ALL my coolant. Swapped it onto my friend's trailer and towed it the rest of the way. Refilled it in the morning tried to fire it up with the radiator cap open, and coolant gushed everywhere. Compression was entering the water jacket. The autopsy suggested that it had been doing so before, which is why things kept popping in the coolant plumbing. The engine was GONE... needed new plates and new rotor housings. The E-shaft and rotors were fine.

Morals of the story:

When it seems like something is wrong, it probably is.

Trailer your car to events! Or at least have a plan in case you have to trailer home.

I use this gauge:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=4754

I like it a lot, because digital displays are easier to read at a glance than analog, and it gets oil and water into one space. You can also program a warning light to come on at a point of your choosing so that you can back off before things get too hot.