1revin712488

hows it goin fellow rx7 enthusiats. i have a 88 NA

i decided that i wanted to do a s4-s5 intake manifold swap and while i had that off to do the emmisions removal and while i was there i decided to take out my seized 6 port actuators.

now my car doesnt start. and i have a few questions

is the fuel pressure regulator different on an s5? bc i used the s5 fuel rails. (not the injectors.)

what would the symptom be of a car that shakes when trying to start it?

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

Did you remove the aws? I had the same problem as you after switching over and doing the tb mod. Found out there was a vaccum leak preventing me from getting the engine going. After that I have to give it a little gas from the throttle pedal because I removed the aws (stupid idea). Hope this helps.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You don't need the AWS to start the car. The BAC will already boost startup idle for a bit anyhow. I removed mine when I swapped manifolds, but I kept my thermowax, so idle jumps to 3000 RPM from the BAC, then drops to 1500 until it warms up.

The S4 & S5 fuel pressure regulators are the same. You can't swap the S4 rails over since the primary is too tall, and the secondary bolt pattern is different.

The biggest problem I ran into doing the swap was grinding enough of the block down to get the UIM to seal against the LIM. It took 3 tries to get it right, and when it wasn't seated properly, the car would have massive idle surges, then stall. This may be an issue to check out if your thermowax/AWS/BAC are all gone, since initial idle will be low enough that it might not even start.

riptyde

iTrader: (5)

You are correct, the car will start without the AWS, but that is not even close to what I said. And the thermowax is part of the AWS so you still have it...

1revin712488

i got it to fire on one rotor but it seems like the rear rotor is constanly flooding. i did break one of the little brown plastic things that go in underneath the injectors. so i put another one in from the s4 but they are different so the injector sank in too much. so i took my injector washers i had laying around and made the injector the right height. (and i kept the brown plastic thing in)

the only reason i bring this up is cuz the rotor thats not fireing is the one that i had to mess with the injector.


another thing real quick. i ran my bacv to the top of the thorttle body like is says in the "how to" thread. and now im wondering where the one that comes from the back of the block goes (seeing that i took the stock spot to run the bacv

heres a pic

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

try some rtv sealant between the LIM and the UIM(lower intake & upper intake). The rear most stud is the one that had to be drilled to fit the s4 lower and is prone to vacuum leaks.

Ramses666

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The BAC and AWS solenoids are the Accelerated Warmup System. I think you'll find if you search that "AWS" generally refers to just the AWS solenoid, which is technically called the Air Bypass Solenoid Valve in the FSM.

More info here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...lerated+warmup

The thermowax is not part of this system, since it works on it's own, while the BAC and air bypass solenoid valve (AWS for short, ABS is taken for obvious reasons) work together. Why do you think the BAC is connected to the air bypass valve, but the thermowax is not? The thermowax is just a separate warmup device.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

1revin, how do you know the rear rotor is flooding while the front is not? Are the rear rotor's plugs soaked in gas when you pull them?

And for the routing of the coolant lines through the BAC to the TB, you would just go from the rear iron to the other connection on the thermowax (facing the driver's side). An alternative is to bypass the BAC altogether and just route a hose undernear the UIM & up to that same side. Either way you have to make sure the coolant lines do not touch the throttle cable, or you will end up wearing a hole in them. Here's a pic of my setup.

http://members.***.net/kiljaden84/S5%20manifold%202.JPG

The hose parallel to the firewall just loops out of the way and then back under the UIM to the water pump housing, while the other goes to the rear iron. The BAC works just fine without water to keep it at a constant temp. And the benefit is there is no water line to get in the way of the OMP rod.

1revin712488

thanks guys. shes running great.


btw nice setup rotaryrocket88.....clean.

how did u run the vdi?