OMG! I was adjusting the timing when...
#1
What R U thinking self?
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OMG! I was adjusting the timing when...
My scredriver freakin slipped and hit one of the wings that spin in the Crank Angle Sensor thing. Sure enough it busted the wing right off! I am am pissed (
Has anyone replaced one of those? Can i get just the 2 wing thing, or do I need the whole part? Do they make modified ones? Any idea on a price? Any idea how hard it is to get out, and back on? do I have to have the engine at TDC (or the rotary equvilent)
Please any info on this would be greatly appreciated... im gonna go cry for a while, and chare my motorcycle battery so I can get to work tommorow.
Has anyone replaced one of those? Can i get just the 2 wing thing, or do I need the whole part? Do they make modified ones? Any idea on a price? Any idea how hard it is to get out, and back on? do I have to have the engine at TDC (or the rotary equvilent)
Please any info on this would be greatly appreciated... im gonna go cry for a while, and chare my motorcycle battery so I can get to work tommorow.
#3
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I had the cover off cause is was having a hard time turing it.. so i thought maybe there was a screwdriver slot or somthing inside to help me out.
So nothing to crazy, or expensive I have to do then i feel better already I thought I really fugged up.
So nothing to crazy, or expensive I have to do then i feel better already I thought I really fugged up.
#4
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It dosen't look too hard to do, according to the Hayne's Manual I am looking at. A few screws and some electrical connections. Mabye 30 minutes to fix it tops. Cruise over to the "For-Sale Section" and see if anyone is parting out their cars. Get one for like $10-$30.
#5
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OOPS
The junkyard is your best friend right about now
Removal:
You will want to rotate your main pully clockwise until the leading mark (yellow) is aligned with the timing pin, then unplug the connector, take off the locknut, and slide the CAS straight up and out.
Get one at a junkyard if you can cause they ain't cheap new!
Install:
Align the marks on the CAS gear and the housing (has a dent in it), make sure the engine main pully is still aligned with the leading timing mark and slide the CAS into the engine.
Turn the base until it is aligned as close as possible where it was before so your timing will be close to correct and warm the engine to normal operating temp. Short your initial set connector, recheck your idle speed, and adjust the timing back to normal.
By the way...............was there a reason you had the cover off?
Removal:
You will want to rotate your main pully clockwise until the leading mark (yellow) is aligned with the timing pin, then unplug the connector, take off the locknut, and slide the CAS straight up and out.
Get one at a junkyard if you can cause they ain't cheap new!
Install:
Align the marks on the CAS gear and the housing (has a dent in it), make sure the engine main pully is still aligned with the leading timing mark and slide the CAS into the engine.
Turn the base until it is aligned as close as possible where it was before so your timing will be close to correct and warm the engine to normal operating temp. Short your initial set connector, recheck your idle speed, and adjust the timing back to normal.
By the way...............was there a reason you had the cover off?
#6
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Well, the good news is .. I only live 35 Mins. from "Mazda Auto Dismantling" & "Mazda Auto Recycling" so I am sure if I take my bike up there I can get one. I guess I should have left the cover on ... well live and learn. Quick trip to Rancho Cordova on Sat. It looks like. I just thought it would be alot more complicated to perform and I hate puting used parts on my car ... but it sounds to me like these dont affect perfomance they either work, or dont. Is this correct?
BTW: if anyone wants me to eyeball somthing at the mazda shops while im there gimme a holler.
BTW: if anyone wants me to eyeball somthing at the mazda shops while im there gimme a holler.
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#10
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You may want to take a Multimeter with you
If you have a multimeter you can check the CAS you are buying.
CAS Connector:
TOP
____---____
| A | 1 |
|____|____ |
| B | 2 |
|____|____ |
Check A to B should read about 110 to 210 Ohms
Same for 1 to 2
Hope that helps.
They don't go bad to often, but it wouldn't hurt to check.
Picture didn't work
Check the left 2 pins of the connector and then the right 2 pins. Maybe that makes more sense
CAS Connector:
TOP
____---____
| A | 1 |
|____|____ |
| B | 2 |
|____|____ |
Check A to B should read about 110 to 210 Ohms
Same for 1 to 2
Hope that helps.
They don't go bad to often, but it wouldn't hurt to check.
Picture didn't work
Check the left 2 pins of the connector and then the right 2 pins. Maybe that makes more sense
Last edited by gorockrx; 03-08-02 at 01:05 AM.
#11
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Mazda auto dismantling 800-699-2664
Mazda auto Recycling 800-926-5900
Give them a call, I am not sure what style/model Etc. your looking for but if they have it ... I will take a look at it for ya make sure its in good shape.
Both places are within a block of one another .. they have a TON of RX's . I got my 5 speed gear there just a couple weeks ago .. changed over from a auto tranny.
Mazda auto Recycling 800-926-5900
Give them a call, I am not sure what style/model Etc. your looking for but if they have it ... I will take a look at it for ya make sure its in good shape.
Both places are within a block of one another .. they have a TON of RX's . I got my 5 speed gear there just a couple weeks ago .. changed over from a auto tranny.
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