if just the threads remain no socket in the world will help.

you need an easy out and chisel the porcelain out and soak that bish in some rust penetrant then hope and pray that it cooperates.

been there, done that. it sucked bad...

 

so antisieze woulda prevented this? if so, id take this as a learning leason. hope youve been thinking about a rebuild recently. while we are on the subject i there something made to clean up the threads a lil, my concern would be when "cleaning" metal woud fall into the engine.... just thought id throw that out there.

 

no it won't prevent it, it may help or it may actually hinder the plug from wanting to come out. gotta remember anti sieze does dry out over time so it will just be a mettalic buffer between the plug and housing.

best thing you can do is make sure the plug threads are clean, you can do this by putting some ATF on the threads and running the plug in and out a few times then crank the engine over for a few seconds to blow the ATF off the threads. the ATF helps clean the crap that is built up off the threads, adding anti sieze just adds more crap to the threads to have to clean off later.

some people swear by anti seize but i prefer not having anything on there, just clean threads on plug and housing.

 

Bwahhahahahahahaha


go get an easy out set, "screw extractor set" from harbor freight tools, its like 5 bucks, and i can vouch for it, though not from THIS experience... lol

 

ever want to port your engine? now is a good time!
try chipping at it till the procilins out then possibly use some kind of adhive on a smaller bolt to hold it and unscrew it. something like jb weld although that prolly wont be strong enough

 

Sears sells a set of sockets that are engineered to remove bolts with rounded off heads. They have a set in the $25 range. It looks like you have enough of the plug left to use the bolt extractors.

 

Ok I see no bolt there to get at, just barely some threads. I would recommend perhaps try finding some sort of counter sink screw or bolt. With the screw get some vise grips on it and try and turn it out. Your not going to be able to get anything on that, or take a screwdriver, cut a slit in the plug, and try and hammer counterclockwise, maybe that will help, use some PB blaster when your doing this.

 

The set I used : " Lisle 6 pc. Stuck Bolt, Nut and Stud Remover Set"

The set is $35 but they work.

Take a look.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes


ash

 

yeah, but you cant put that inward pressure on the porcelain, it will break with a quickness! you would have to use an easy out

 

looks like an easy out would work on this

 

I plan to take the engine apart to rebuild in my case, but I assume that if you can break the center part of the spark plug out leaving the the threaded casing, use some penetrating oil, and also heat the aluminum housing, then something will have to budge. Would a large phillips screw driver also help to extact the plug is the center was missing?

 

i'm still trying to figure out how you broke the plug, the only thought that popped into my head is tightening it with a break bar...

an engine that has been sitting forever and a day and the plugs just don't want to come out is a different story.

 

Hey Guys! Sorry for the no response, I had a lot of Christmas things to do at my church. But heres the story:

So this happend as I was checking my plugs (Because my car already had problems holding idle) to see if they shown signs of any unusual wear (BTW these plugs are brand new). I put the plug in and tightened it and it broke, Dang... I really wish i had pictures but to better describe it, my plugs were good old NGK's and the porcelin did come off as it broke, so only the thread is left in there. So i went to home depot to get a reverse drill bit set and tried to stick a 1/4 inch (I think) and twisted it. It felt like it was working but then the bit broke...

So now i'm think OH MY CRAP....

My Solutions:
1.) Since the Plug is covered, I can run just one spark in the first chamber
2.) I will try to use a bigger bit to get it out (There is still some more room to put the bit in the spark plug)

I am going to go to Sears today to do some more Christmas shopping and buy some tools. And if i do get this fixed, I promise to make a how to on taking out broken spark plugs.

Thanks!
-Josh

 

The old break the easy out in the screw trick. Have fun getting it out.

 

BINGO! I did use a breaker bar to loosen them. The other three plugs were super tight all the way till the last thread came out. Now my question, how tight did he try to make his spark plugs? Surely not supposed to be tight enough to break the plug unless it was just a defective plug. In that case, the manufacturer needs to know about it.

 

Nope, no breaker bar, i used a regular 10-12 inch rachet with a fitting that was made to remove and put in spark plugs (The one with the rubber bushing in side)

 

Oh, and i tightened them as tight as i could with my rachet

 

There should be a tourque spec your sopposed to use you know (I dont know it so dont ask me for it). And If you dont have a tourque wrench (or just dont want to use it) you only need to get the plugs snug.

 

yep, believe me i have scolded more than a few customers when i have wound up breaking the plugs into pieces trying to get them out because the customer tightened them down a good bit.

 

yeah grab these-
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
and use the ones designed for screws not the ones for bolts and i bet it will pull that biotch right out. if not... try using the ones for bolts but drilling into the ceramic is going to be a PIA

just remember go slow, it will come out eventually.

 

You must have really cranked it down then.

I tighten my plugs to about 14 lbs*ft on my car and I've never had a problem. As an experiment, I used an old plug and old housing (trash one) and tightened it in to something like 60 lbs*ft... I didn't have a problem actually.

14 lbs*ft is is just kinda snugged down... not really TIGHT with a deathgrip.

Oh well, mistakes happen

 

Seek professional help. This seems above your level of mechanical expertise.