so we have tryed several times to start my fresh s5 t2 rebuild. the car has s4 na rotors in it (not that i would think it makes a diff on start up) when we spray starter fluid it picks up and almost turns but still no such luck. weve try putting oil in the plug holes to help build comp still not start. we had another car to jump me still no start. my last option is im going to push it down the hill by the garage its pretty steep and the car will see 45ish by the bottom (i also have a tow rope for just in case). so any ideas on what could hold it back from key start ?

 

Have fuel pressure? Flooded?

 

Pour a bit of oil in the chambers and perform a compression test. Anything below 80psi and you're going to have a hard time starting it.

 

yeah we have fuel pressure and it had flooded b4 each time we try to start i have to drain it. the engine has great compression brand new springs and seals. some one said could be a ignition issue but we pulled the plugs and tested them and they spark. new fuel pump has been instaled i cant figure out why it wont turn key start. i have a friend who is supose to be uploading a vid of us trying to start it and it should be on here soon.

 

It's probably just mega flooded. This happened when I had mine rebuilt; it took about two days worth of de-flooding, adding ATF etc.... to finally getting it cranking.

 

well it could be how flooded do can they get ?
i was trying the oil pressure prime technique so it could be mega flooded we took out the lower spark plugz and turned the engine in reverse and loads of fuel pored out.

 

did you check the timing? maybe the CAS got put in wrong?

they can get extremely flooded. pull the egi fuse and spin it over a bit.

 

+1. it took me 7-10 minutes of this to get my GXL started

 

when mine floods i do as you said and compression/pop/roll/clutch start it and it fires right up no matter how flooded. Try that as long as all systems are working correctly and let us know if it worked.


BTW 45mph is plenty of speed to start it. I start mine just by pushing on the windshield frame and then jumping in and dumping the clutch in 1st. Take the tow strap just incase it doesnt start or doesnt stay running.

 

Keep doing that.. I've found if the engine is SUPER flooded it won't drain unless you either turn it backwards with the bottom plug out or take of the exhaust manifold.

Example: I had a friends TII come into my shop that wouldn't start on a JDM swap. Good compression all faces. Timing was fine. Got spark on all plugs. Flooded out REALLY bad when we tried to start it, and it wouldn't start at all (Ended up being the rear primary injector). Deflooded it a dozen times to no avail.. Finally a seal got stuck while trying to crank it with the rotor filled with oil and we lost compression on 2 faces. Took off the exhaust manifold to check if the seal was stuck or blown (It was stuck) and while turning it over by hand about a half cup of fuel came out of the rear rotor. Pushed on the seal until it popped lose, Put the exhaust manifold back on (no turbo, but a piece of sheet metal pointing down to divert the exhaust), Put intake manifold and TB back on (but with an extra set of injectors I had lying around), unplugged EGI fuse, Put some 10w30 through the lower plug hole on each rotor face (about a teaspoon) and turned it over a few times (with a zip tied plastic bag to catch the oil off the turbo oil feed), and then cranked on it about 15 seconds with some starting fluid.. Popped over rough a few times.. 3 tries later and it came to life, but died in a few seconds because the AFM wasn't hooked up and it was spitting fire into the engine bay. Hooked everything back up right. Stated fine and ran like a champ (after smoking like hell for 10 min).. Hope that helps some.. Good luck

 

it does guys thanks very much !

 

no starty i try to hit while going down hill and nothin, try while i was towing hte car back up hill and nothin it sounded as if it wanted to start but i got nothin. im at the point where i think and my friends agree that the ignition timming is fubar.

so how can you adjust it without the car running ? or time rather than adjust

 

How about the ole tried and true *fuel lines on backwards*.

 

could be a possible ? do explain please...

 

Fuel lines probably are not backwards because he is getting fuel to the rails.. To check make sure the line that is NOT hooked up to the top of the fuel filter is going to the rear of the secondary (top) fuel rail.

Your timing could very well be FUBAR if you put the CAS in wrong.. Heres how to fix it in 9 easy steps.

1) Unplug the CAS.
2) Take off the top cover by removing the two screws.
3) Take off the bolt that is holding it to the engine block (right next to the shaft on the block)
4) Pull the CAS out.
5) Rotate the engine untill the yellow timing mark on the front pulley lines up with the the "timing pin" on the block.
6) Line the arrow on the bottom of the CAS shaft to the "dimple" on the gear on the bottom of the CAS.

Notice how the diamond shaped object in the top of the CAS is lined up in such a way that its two points are kinda pointing at 2:00 and 8:00..

7) Put it back in the engine keeping it lined up just like that.

8) Once it is in the engine and adjusted tighten down the bolt you removed to pull it out (locking the timing in) and put the cover back on.

9) Plug it back in and hopefully start the car.

 

Yeah. Not fuel lines crossed because you said it had been flooded.

There's a jpg of what the top of the CAS should look like if the front pulley marks is opposite the fixed pin on the front cover.

 

sweet thanks guys this forum rules \m/

 

where in NC are you?

 

Zak is that you. Or am I dilusional. Whats up hope your doing good.

 

If you are getting So much fuel that when you Pop the lower Plugs and Fuel runs out,That is Way too much Fuel..Most likely from starting to start it.
make sure your Timing is Set correctly,by using the Front Pulley marks,and align the CAS.(search,I hate Typing).
and Take the EGI out and Roll the engine over for 15 seconds,to get the Excess fuel OUT.
Put a Bit of Motor oil in teh Housings,through the spark plug holes,and roll the Engine over 3 seconds
then Put a FRESH set of plugs in.
Put the EGI back in and try to start it.This Method basically Brings you back to a Fresh Start..Do not Use the Throttle,
and Make sure the AFM is connected and is Level
Good luck..STYX.

 

when i pulled the plugz not so much did fuel come running out.. it wasent till i turned the motor backwards by hand that he fuel came out. i pretty much knew after a few trys it was going to be my hope was based on the push start to work but i ride the fail boat. thats when i got to looking at my ignition. see the firstime i rebuilt the engine i lined the key up with the timing mark and everything was good to go. then water seals had gottn cut between the housing and iron so on the second rebuild i think i forgot to line the key back up... i really dont rember doing it the second time.i do have spark at least the plugz are good.
lol when i searched all i got was how to time a running 13b. its also been raining the past 2 days so i havent had a chance to go out there and pull the cas yet but it should let up 2morrow i hope

i live in asheboro near greensboro and high point (30 min drive)

 

Ya,You can Have spark alright,,but the point is WHEN?..if it is not at the right Time,then the engine is not going to Start..the Spark plugs could be firing at the wrong time,so No power is being produced.That gives you Unburnt Fuel and it floods.Get my Drift?
so that Is why I am asking you to Check the timing,and align the pulley and the CAS..
also to get rid of all the old Unburnt Crap(gas) inside the housings By deflooding the Hell out of it,so you can start off Fresh.

 

theres a RX7 meet in mooresville near Charlotte this sunday at 1:00

 

well it ran for about 15 seconds and the oil pressure gauge never showed anything so i cut the car off... we check the oil filter and there was some oil there but not like poring out so we tried starting with the oil filter off. i didn't see any oil coming out the top. i parked the car on a hill front end facing down.. a few people tolled me this would help when trying to prime the system and i still didn't get anything. im 100% sure the gauge is hooked up right. after i killed the car we tried again and it fired up a second time again no oil pressure building. so WTF ???? idle was set at 1500 like everyone says to do i will admit i was pretty damn happy at the fact that the car started and was on cloud 9 but this oil problem brought me down very quickly. also some how i have air in the crank case... its blowing out of the oil breather tube and i have no idea why. some1 told me that it could be from bad porting but it would have to be pretty bad and i only used a pineapple racing mild street-port templet. so once again im back to if you guys can help me out. my thoughts are that some how the air in the crankcase and the oil pump might be linked but not sure. i also thought that i had primed the oil pump, but even so after start up the oil psi should have shot straight to 100psi if im not mistaken thats the starting pressure and then it goes down slowly. idk guys im at wits end.

 

so what ive found is that oil psi spikes on start up to 100psi but how long does that take ? a few seconds or as soon as the engine starts running ? my be i didnt let it run long enough to get the pump primed hince the reason behind such lil oil in the filter. idk ive just been searching all day.