Ok, So Will A Walbro Be Overkill Without A Fuel Controller?
#1
Y00s a h000
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Ok, So Will A Walbro Be Overkill Without A Fuel Controller?
I've finally decided on what starting mods i'm going to do to my car, so below is the list, then after that are my next bunch of questions regaurding fuel mods.
Red 89' Turbo II
--------------------
- A'pexi Intake
- Racing Beat 2.5" Downpipe
- Racing Beat 2.5" Presilencer
- TurboXS RFL BOV
- Autometer Dual Gauge Pod
- DEFI D-Gauge Electric Boost Gauge
- Wastegate Ported To Stock Flapper Size
- FCD
I made a thread earlier concerning whether or not with a Walbro I would run pretty rich with a similar setup, and the consensus was that I would. Would running a Walbro with this setup cause me to be rich to the point where I should not put in the new pump without a fuel controller? Also, if I would need a fuel controller with this setup to not run too rich, would running this setup without a fuel pump or fuel controller until I could purchase both be a really bad thing for the car? Also, would I be safer going with an FD fuel pump? I'm not sure the difference between a Walbro and FD, so I figured i'd ask here while i'm on a roll.
Also, is there anything else in this setup that i'm missing that would be vital for safe operation of this setup? I tried to include all the things like boost gauges and such so nobody would point out that I should have one. Also, i'm not sure what gauge i'm going to put in the second pod space. I was thinking an a/f gauge, but everyone seems to say they are worthless unless you get the insanely expensive ones, is this true? Thanks again for all the help.
- Brian
Red 89' Turbo II
--------------------
- A'pexi Intake
- Racing Beat 2.5" Downpipe
- Racing Beat 2.5" Presilencer
- TurboXS RFL BOV
- Autometer Dual Gauge Pod
- DEFI D-Gauge Electric Boost Gauge
- Wastegate Ported To Stock Flapper Size
- FCD
I made a thread earlier concerning whether or not with a Walbro I would run pretty rich with a similar setup, and the consensus was that I would. Would running a Walbro with this setup cause me to be rich to the point where I should not put in the new pump without a fuel controller? Also, if I would need a fuel controller with this setup to not run too rich, would running this setup without a fuel pump or fuel controller until I could purchase both be a really bad thing for the car? Also, would I be safer going with an FD fuel pump? I'm not sure the difference between a Walbro and FD, so I figured i'd ask here while i'm on a roll.
Also, is there anything else in this setup that i'm missing that would be vital for safe operation of this setup? I tried to include all the things like boost gauges and such so nobody would point out that I should have one. Also, i'm not sure what gauge i'm going to put in the second pod space. I was thinking an a/f gauge, but everyone seems to say they are worthless unless you get the insanely expensive ones, is this true? Thanks again for all the help.
- Brian
#2
Fok mi
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You could try without the walbro and all those mods, but I suggest you do your testing on a dyno with a wideband to make sure all is well on your a/f. A fuel controller would probably be adviseable.
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Y00s a h000
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Also, i'm a total noob when it comes to this stuff, i'm just getting started out with my first car, so i'm trying to ask a lot of questions. Once I eventually get a fuel controller, is it easy to use? Like what kinds of settings are there, and how will I know what settings to use?
#4
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I would buy a SAFC, you can pick one up on eBay for like $200-250 new. I honestly think you would run rich without one. Also, when you put the new exhaust on your boost will increase so you might run lean. I doubt they will balance each other out though, so you need some type of control.
#6
If you only going for basic mods like intake, full exhaust, etc...I'd go for a FCD, walbro, and an s-afc. Then get your full exhaust and intake(ported wastegate and boost controller as well) and take it to the dyno to be tuned. Then your done.
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#8
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So whats the deal with the S-AFC? Does it automatically give you a good setting to work with then you can tune it, or it starts at some default setting and you have to do it all yourself? I'm just not sure what kinds of settings I should be using and changin.
#9
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If you don't know what your doing, I would just take it to a dyno and let them do it. They can use a wideband O2 to see if your running lean and add fuel. I don't think its that hard but I know you can **** stuff up easily.
#11
I break Diff mounts
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I just checked local prices and a SAFC II is going for $240 new.
I would run rich any day over running lean. You'll use more gas but you'll still have an engine.
Once I get my conversion done I want to put a SAFC in and get it dynoed to get my A/F's set right.
Hopefully I can scrounge up the extra money.
I think the regular dyno runs cost aorund $50 a hour or half hour. This price is usually for 10+ cars though.
Check with the regional forum and other clubs to see if there is a dyno day coming up.
Carx7 got his monster dynoed and he made some incredible horse after tuning(422 on pump and 460 on high octane).
I would run rich any day over running lean. You'll use more gas but you'll still have an engine.
Once I get my conversion done I want to put a SAFC in and get it dynoed to get my A/F's set right.
Hopefully I can scrounge up the extra money.
I think the regular dyno runs cost aorund $50 a hour or half hour. This price is usually for 10+ cars though.
Check with the regional forum and other clubs to see if there is a dyno day coming up.
Carx7 got his monster dynoed and he made some incredible horse after tuning(422 on pump and 460 on high octane).
#12
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I personally would invest $100 or so for an hour of dyno tuning by a good shop if I were you. It would be easy to just tune the S-AFC and you'll be assured of good and safe a/f mixture. There is just too much to lose if you run lean. I think Walbro or Supra fuel pump would be a good idea since they only cost like $100 from ebay and you'll need it eventually if you're planning to upgrade your car even more.
#13
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I wouldn't get the SAFC if you're only diong those mods and installing the Walbro. If you're running stock cat-back, then that should be a nice, safe, solid setup.
However, if you were to get a much less-restrictive cat-back, then it might be a good idea to get an SAFC, get your injectors cleaned, and turn up the fuel a little... or... get slightly bigger secondary injectors and get a SAFC to turn down the fuel.
However, if you were to get a much less-restrictive cat-back, then it might be a good idea to get an SAFC, get your injectors cleaned, and turn up the fuel a little... or... get slightly bigger secondary injectors and get a SAFC to turn down the fuel.
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Y00s a h000
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So if I just got that setup, with a Walbro, and ran a little rich, is there any real harm in running rich? I probably will get a S-AFC eventually, but just with that setup would I be fine for a while until I could pull some cash together?
#17
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Ocelot, it's good you're asking these questions... it helps all the turbo noobs, like me, out. i can't wait to go j-spec at the end of the year.
keep asking!
keep asking!
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