Ok, doing Rats Nest removal, few questions.
02-25-04, 12:25 AM
#1
sold--no longer in debt
Thread Starter
Ok, doing Rats Nest removal, few questions.
Been doing emissions removal today for simplicity of everything...
got the vac rac out, egr, acr, split air pipe, did the tb mod, etc. I put my oil filler neck back on.. and I read that I needed to keep the DSV.. so I left it on, but now theres a line sticking up next to it, and I don't know what lines to run to the dsv either.. I included a picture of my dilemma (one of many at this point) any help is appreciated.
I numbered the things in the picture for ease of helping me.. lol
got the vac rac out, egr, acr, split air pipe, did the tb mod, etc. I put my oil filler neck back on.. and I read that I needed to keep the DSV.. so I left it on, but now theres a line sticking up next to it, and I don't know what lines to run to the dsv either.. I included a picture of my dilemma (one of many at this point) any help is appreciated.
I numbered the things in the picture for ease of helping me.. lol
02-25-04, 03:26 AM
#3
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
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Sorry, but I'm not a TII guy. Do have a look at this:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=112251
Scroll down to Part 2.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=112251
Scroll down to Part 2.
02-25-04, 03:52 AM
#4
sold--no longer in debt
Thread Starter
Thanks... yeah we kinda figured it out that i'd need a type of catch can. We just kinda capped everything up and ghetto rigged it to see if it would kick.. low and behold it did. Now I'm waiting for all my blockoff plates to come in the mail and then start saving up for a standalone i guess. just trying to get this thing running reliably !!
02-25-04, 03:54 AM
#5
sold--no longer in debt
Thread Starter
i got a few more questions but im too tired to upload the pictures.. spent 12 hours on the car tonight.. i need sleep, will post more in the morning! night
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02-25-04, 11:00 AM
#9
sold--no longer in debt
Thread Starter
i would but im lazy and have a little extra cash to blow (not really, i'm poor.. but im spending my insurance money for this car since i dont plan on it running any time soon)
02-25-04, 12:22 PM
#11
sold--no longer in debt
Thread Starter
Ok, new day, few more questions! What do I do with the following coolant lines/vac lines?
and what goes to the coolant line on top of the TB? (i just did the tb mod also)
and what goes to the coolant line on top of the TB? (i just did the tb mod also)
02-25-04, 12:33 PM
#12
Refined Valley Dude
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#4 - that's for your cold start assist. Dump it and the piece it goes to beneath the secondary rail. Block off the hole (this is where that aluminum comes in handy.) 
Why are your pics so damn fuzzy? I can't even tell what #2 is.
Why are your pics so damn fuzzy? I can't even tell what #2 is.
02-25-04, 12:42 PM
#13
sold--no longer in debt
Thread Starter
#2 is the coolant line coming out of the engine, i have it blocked off with tape so nothing fell in there. i just dont know where to route it now or what to do with it.
**** i need another blockoff plate?
oh and then i can take out the little resevior by the charcoal canister too right? im such a newb
**** i need another blockoff plate?
oh and then i can take out the little resevior by the charcoal canister too right? im such a newb
02-25-04, 01:35 PM
#15
Refined Valley Dude
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Originally posted by cloead
**** i need another blockoff plate?
**** i need another blockoff plate?
Or you can just cap the nipple that the hose is on. It's a cleaner if you yank the assembly, though.
oh and then i can take out the little resevior by the charcoal canister too right? im such a newb
Yup - junk it.
btw, your pics just crapped out.
[edit] And they're up again - musta been a dsl fart.
02-25-04, 01:41 PM
#17
Refined Valley Dude
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Originally posted by theonlygreat
where would i get 1/4" aluminum?
where would i get 1/4" aluminum?
Sorry, missed this b4.
I got mine from a pile of 'spare' (scrap) metal pieces at work.
I'd suggest finding a welding shop (heavy equipment one would probably be better) near you and just walk in the door and tell them what you need and why. Be sure to offer to give them some money for whatever they give you before you leave. They may wave you off, they may ask for a few bucks, but either way they'll be more likely to be happy to see you the next time you drop by...
02-25-04, 01:41 PM
#18
MEAN GREEN
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The coolant line on the top of the block will connect to the nipple on the backside of the water pump. Remove the Bac and block it off. The line from the bac ran to the back of the water pump on the front of the engine next to the alt. This will rid you of that pesky hard to reach hose on the throttle body.It will now run under the uim. Remove the air bypass solenoid on top of the uim and the one on the backside of the uim. Make sure you plug the holes and block them off because they are no longer needed. You will set your idle with the small screw on the firewall side of the throttle body that has a 8mm lock nut. You can set it while running w/ the intercooler on. You need a long flathead with a narrow edge, and a 8mm socket w/ extension and flashlite. Make sure you cap off the intercooler nipples and the nipple above the turbo that used to supply air to the bac. All this talk about nipples got me happy!LOL
02-25-04, 01:45 PM
#19
Refined Valley Dude
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You *have* read this page, haven't you?
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html
This concludes the modification to the throttle body itself. You'll need to reroute the 90º coolant hose that used to connect the rear end side housing to the throttle body for the cold-start system (now removed). You can either run a hose from the engine to the BAC valve, or you can run a hose from the rear engine housing to the back of the water pump housing which will bypass the stock BAC valve. NOTE: Because of the very limited amount of space under the throttle body, you need to run a pre-formed, 90º hose. Most local auto parts stores carry preformed 5/16" hose with 90º bends. I found a hose designed for a Mopar that has a short 4" leg on one end (needs to be shortened to fit the nipple on the engine block) and a 18" length leg that can be run to the BAC valve.
