Ok, doing Rats Nest removal, few questions.
Been doing emissions removal today for simplicity of everything...
got the vac rac out, egr, acr, split air pipe, did the tb mod, etc. I put my oil filler neck back on.. and I read that I needed to keep the DSV.. so I left it on, but now theres a line sticking up next to it, and I don't know what lines to run to the dsv either.. I included a picture of my dilemma (one of many at this point) any help is appreciated. I numbered the things in the picture for ease of helping me.. lol http://www.mindclarity.com/cloead/help.jpg |
anybosy? =/ running into more problems as we speak
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Sorry, but I'm not a TII guy. Do have a look at this:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=112251 Scroll down to Part 2. |
Thanks... yeah we kinda figured it out that i'd need a type of catch can. We just kinda capped everything up and ghetto rigged it to see if it would kick.. low and behold it did. Now I'm waiting for all my blockoff plates to come in the mail and then start saving up for a standalone i guess. just trying to get this thing running reliably !!
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i got a few more questions but im too tired to upload the pictures.. spent 12 hours on the car tonight.. i need sleep, will post more in the morning! night
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I just nixxed all the emissions stuff on my NA. :)
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yeah thats what i did today.. its almost all gone.. well hell it is all gone now but i need blockoff plates ;)
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Make your own plates with 1/4" aluminum, a marker and a hack saw (some sandpaper wouldn't hurt, too.) That's what I did. :)
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i would but im lazy and have a little extra cash to blow (not really, i'm poor.. but im spending my insurance money for this car since i dont plan on it running any time soon)
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where would i get 1/4" aluminum?
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Ok, new day, few more questions! What do I do with the following coolant lines/vac lines?
http://www.mindclarity.com/cloead/help2.jpg and what goes to the coolant line on top of the TB? (i just did the tb mod also) |
#4 - that's for your cold start assist. Dump it and the piece it goes to beneath the secondary rail. Block off the hole (this is where that aluminum comes in handy.) ;)
Why are your pics so damn fuzzy? I can't even tell what #2 is. :doh: |
#2 is the coolant line coming out of the engine, i have it blocked off with tape so nothing fell in there. i just dont know where to route it now or what to do with it.
shit i need another blockoff plate? oh and then i can take out the little resevior by the charcoal canister too right? im such a newb |
and fuzzy?! they look fine on my comp i dunnoz it was my friends camera as mine is still mia
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Originally posted by cloead shit i need another blockoff plate? Or you can just cap the nipple that the hose is on. It's a cleaner if you yank the assembly, though. :) oh and then i can take out the little resevior by the charcoal canister too right? im such a newb Yup - junk it. :bigthumb: btw, your pics just crapped out. :( [edit] And they're up again - musta been a dsl fart. ;) |
;) now about all the other items in question..
#1 ? #2 ? #3 ? #5 ? :) helperz!! ;0 |
Originally posted by theonlygreat where would i get 1/4" aluminum? Sorry, missed this b4. I got mine from a pile of 'spare' (scrap) metal pieces at work. I'd suggest finding a welding shop (heavy equipment one would probably be better) near you and just walk in the door and tell them what you need and why. Be sure to offer to give them some money for whatever they give you before you leave. They may wave you off, they may ask for a few bucks, but either way they'll be more likely to be happy to see you the next time you drop by... |
The coolant line on the top of the block will connect to the nipple on the backside of the water pump. Remove the Bac and block it off. The line from the bac ran to the back of the water pump on the front of the engine next to the alt. This will rid you of that pesky hard to reach hose on the throttle body.It will now run under the uim. Remove the air bypass solenoid on top of the uim and the one on the backside of the uim. Make sure you plug the holes and block them off because they are no longer needed. You will set your idle with the small screw on the firewall side of the throttle body that has a 8mm lock nut. You can set it while running w/ the intercooler on. You need a long flathead with a narrow edge, and a 8mm socket w/ extension and flashlite. Make sure you cap off the intercooler nipples and the nipple above the turbo that used to supply air to the bac. All this talk about nipples got me happy!LOL
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You *have* read this page, haven't you?
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html This concludes the modification to the throttle body itself. You'll need to reroute the 90º coolant hose that used to connect the rear end side housing to the throttle body for the cold-start system (now removed). You can either run a hose from the engine to the BAC valve, or you can run a hose from the rear engine housing to the back of the water pump housing which will bypass the stock BAC valve. NOTE: Because of the very limited amount of space under the throttle body, you need to run a pre-formed, 90º hose. Most local auto parts stores carry preformed 5/16" hose with 90º bends. I found a hose designed for a Mopar that has a short 4" leg on one end (needs to be shortened to fit the nipple on the engine block) and a 18" length leg that can be run to the BAC valve. |
allright thanks, that takes care of a lot of my confusion!!
so what about uhmmm #1 #3 #5!! :) |
I'll see about sending some help along... :)
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yeah i have that printed out.. i guess i overlooked it... im a smart guy let me tell you
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#1= brake booster. you have to hook this up..just hook it up stock like it was..goes tot he little nipple that comes out of the center iron housing.
#3,5..you need a better pic. pat |
allright ill grab my cam later.. thanks
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Are we talking about pic #1 or pic #2?
-Ted |
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