What type of oil do you run?

 

Before you get seriously flamed, you probably ought to search the forums for this topic. It's been discussed many times. The short version
- Don't use cheap synthetics, only the good stuff like like Mobil 1, Redline, royal Purple
- Use Castrol in a 10W-30 or 20W-50 weight...don't use 10W-40
- Change the oil every 2500-3000 miles

This applies if you keep the Oil Metering Pump hooked up and functioning. If you've disconnected it and are running only premix, then you can use whatever you want.

 

people say dont use 10w40....I use 15w40, should I? or should i switch to something else

 

Castrol GTX 20w50. I'd like to try/get some info on Motuls engine oils as well as the Idemitsu fluids.

 

15w40 is probably a diesel oil. As long as the oil container says that the oil is approved for mixed fleets-meaning gas and diesel engines, it will be ok to use in your rotary. However, if it says that it is only approved for diesel engines, DON"T USE it because it will have higher ash content and also have additives that can poison your cats.

I use 10w40 exclusively in my rotaries and have driven rotary powered cars since 1986 and am on my 4th RX7. I have yet to ever have to do a rebuild which doesn't appear to be the norm around here.

 

WTF? its right under your hood. 20w-50 for normal weather. Most cars have oil recommendations on a sticker on the underside of the hood.

 

im running castrol gtx 10w-30 but after that im going with idemistu 15w-40 or redline 10w-30 or royal purple 10w-30

 

I run 5w30 mine runs great

 

been running castrol gtx high mileage 10W30 since i got the car. just put in 20w50 this last time.

 

i put in castrol GTX 20w50

 

same

 

GTX 20w50, I have been looking at Idemitsu and Royal purple though... does anyone have those?

 

[QUOTE=Chuck]
- Don't use cheap synthetics, only the good stuff like like Mobil 1, Redline, royal Purple
QUOTE]

Say what? Why are you recommending he use synthetics at all? Im sure this has been covered a million times before. You shouldnt be running synthetics. Unless he is premixing which I dont think he is, he is better off running a good quality mineral oil.

 

I dont know what is under my hood but my owner's manual says that 10w-40 is good YEAR round. I don't spend much time under my hood, unlike others here I don't blow an engine every 12 months.

 

amsoil 20w50 and amsoil saber smokless synthetic 2-stroke. at about 80:1

 

i use 10W30.........what are the pro
s of 20w50?

 

My car just loves the GTX. As soon as I put it in I noticed a difference in engine noise and vibration, it was much smoother. Its non synthetic too, so its what mazda will recommend.
I think the best would probably be like mobil 1, even though its synthetic, its ash content is very low.. But lets try not to get in an argument on that.

Play it safe and use the GTX

 

During cold weather I switch to a 10W30 weight oil but otherwise I use what he said. i also run my car premix but I like to keep things consistent. And I use a synthetic oil, a redline a day keeps the build up away.

 

20w50 is jsut a thicker weight oil, it supposed to lube the engine up better, where as 10W30 is a lighter weight oil

 

Please try again, thicker doesn't mean it lubes better.....

 

I have an 89 GTU and got an engine rebuild about 24K miles ago, almost 2 years ago now. I have Castrol GTX, 20W50, since then. However, the last oil change, after thorough research, I switched to Royal Purple 20W50. I love the change and will continue to run RP. It is a synthetic oil with better lubricating properties in the high heat conditions of a rotary engine and since the oil is injected as a lubricant the more that stays in the engine the better it is for the rotors.

For you guys using lighter oils than 20W50 your doing your engines any favors. The rotary engine needs the oil for LUBRICATION in the rotor housings and Mazda recommends that weight for a reason.

Also consider using synthetic oil such as Royal Purple or RedLine for the tranny and differential. They are far superior than the organic oils.

 

Royal purple 20w50 is what I use on my car(s), with Royal purple TCW III 2-stroke as premix.

 

I've heard of "flushing" the system or something to get out all the dino oil since theres like 1.5 quarts in the oil cooler and it needs to be taken out, anybody do this? I'll probably go RP after i get my e6k and start premixing.

-Andrew

 

I did a search on the flushing question before going to RP for the tranny and differential. I found that is not necessary for the manual tranny but might be necessary for the AT if the tranny fluid is very old and very dirty. What is recommended is to buy the cheapest dino tranny oilm 75W90 that you can get and after thoroughly draining a manual transmission simply run the dino oil thru the tranny to flush out all the old stuff. Then replace the drain plug and fill with the new RP GL-5 gear oil, 75W90, until it just starts to seep out of the filler/check plug.

 

i am running GTX 20w 50, but i give the car and oil lots of time to warm up. Until the car is fully warmed up, ~10 minutes, the pressure reads very high on my aftermarket guage, which makes me think that 20w 50 is too thick to to circulate very well when it's cool. i have been considering switching to 10w 30, 10w 40 only dropped it about 5 psi. cold.