quick question what's my oil pressure sepost to be at idle warm? coz mine is about 15-20psi. and im prity sure its coz I have those weber jet installed in my e shaft that you can get off of mazda trix and all those places.

 

On the factory gauge, or an accurate aftermarket gauge that isn't buffered?

A stock motor should show about 30 on the stock gauge, and about 25 on an aftermarket gauge, at hot idle. Then as rpm exceeds 2000, you'd probably see 60 on the stock gauge and 65-75 on an aftermarket gauge.

Yes, if you have the stock eshaft jets removed and carb jets installed, it will take away a fair bit of your oil pressure at idle. That is the main argument against them...for a street car that spends most of it's time in the lower rpm range, it does more harm than good.

 

Im using an autometer mechanical gauge. and if I idle it in between 1100 and 1400 rpm she holds in between 20-25psi hot. so im just going to idle it around there. I also have 3window main bearings, rotor bearings with a deeper oil grove, and an up graded oil pressure regulator if that helps.

 

higher viscosity oil will buffer the low oil pressure to a degree.

i hate those rotor oiling jets, tried it once and will never recommend it again for any street driven car.

something else to think about while we're on the subject. if you've ever had a front cover o-ring go MIA you may want to try and figure out where it went. it can only be in the line to the oil cooler or jammed down in the front cover bypass regulator. if it's jammed up in the line or wedged against the banjo to the oil cooler it could result in lower oil pressure or possibly next to 0 at idle even if you did correct the problem with the cover seal.

i just had an engine eat 2 irons, front stat gear and an e-shaft due to this issue. i only figured it out because the new engine had contracted the same symptoms with erratic oil pressure.

 

well Im not having that problem thank god! its s5 with the Teflon oring and rubber oring. im running 10w40 at the moment what is the thickest oil I can run? and I am just in the begging of braking this moter in if that helps. and this is my drift car so it will be spending most of its time having the **** beet out of it. thats why I went with those jets.

 

20W50 is the thickest i recommend and will save moving parts if the oil pressure does drop excessively low for a short period of time versus thinner oils. the drawback is slightly more drag on the rotating assembly which translates to a slight power/economy loss

 

I have two questions for you.

1) Is English your first language?

2) Shouldn't you be consulting your engine builder rather than random dudes on the internet?

 

in all honesty not all builders can answer all the questions, though they should know the specifics that we may not be getting. but if it has jets in the e-shaft that answers most of the question of why it has lower than desirable oil pressure, because racecar!

i wouldn't trust any builder that sells someone an oil jet mod and doesn't explain to them the detriments anyways, some shops only care about the benjamins and nothing else. the regulators should have been modded as well to try and compensate or an idle RPM specified(likely 1500 or above for this "race" engine).

 

I am the engine builder! I know enough to do all this stuff my self I just need a little help every now and then. and the regulators were upgraded and with the 10w40 at 1300rpm she hold at all most 25psi where she should be. I guess I will try 20w50 after my first oil change. and wile we are talking about my moter whats the best brake in procedure? like when should I change the oil? what rpm should I limit it to at each mileage im at? and when should I consider the brake in done?