F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Can you replace the gasket without removing the engine?

-Mike

Davidov

iTrader: (2)

Yes, just make sure you drain the oil and make sure to disconnect the sensors first, and you should be set.

razorback

damn it. i have to do this too. not looking forward to it. which sensors are you talking about?

Davidov

iTrader: (2)

I believe one is the oil level sensor for the idiot lights, and the other pumps oil to either the oil cooler or turbo.

That's not important, but they are both brass lines so you gotta take them off before you drop the pan and bend the lines.

razorback

i need to change my oil anyway. so next time i go home i guess i will try and do both.

twistedriver

I just did my oil pan gasket a few weeks ago and it was a pain in the ***. I had trouble getting to the small bolts ontop of the steering rack. ANy ways make you you put enough sealant on the gasket and i think it would be a great ideal to install the gasket and put the oil in the next day so the sealant will seal correctly. Maybe i am wrong but i am getting weird leaks from the oil pan. Also make sure you put alot of sealent on the engine mount bolt and the gasket where the engine mount is. My oil pan is leaking from there and i can't stop the leak by putting the sealant on the bolt, so maybe i will have to redo the gasket job. Hope this helps!

Wankel7

Do not forget one important part of this repair. The engine needs to be supported. You do this by using an engine hoist to hold it up. Or, put a jack under your transmission and hold the engine up this way. If you do not when you pull that engine mount out your engine will drop some.

James

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for all your tips guys!

RunningDeer

Oh my! I need to do the same thing or it's the seal which is worse! Maybe it's shop time, cuz I *ain't* got strength

twistedriver

Yeahhh supporting the engine would be a good ideal. THe engine hitting your head can hurt alot<---i would know. ANy ways i would also check the oil bypass valve in the block. You can only get to it when the pan is off. And yeahh as far as strength just go drink a bunch of red bulls and do the pan job. CUz i hear the job would cost about 150 at the dealership. It took my 5 hours to do the job, so good luck to everyone!!

fcturbo2

man i have the same problem. I used gasket maker instead of the OEM gasket, should i go with the OEM or re do it with gasket maker?.

Wankel7

Do you mean the oil pressure relief ? How did you test it?

James

White_FC

If your talking about the blue silicone type gasket maker then that is far superior to the factory mazda gasket at sealing the oil pan..

And yeah dammmm those bolts near the P/S rack are a **** fight to get at.. sometimes i think i need some smaller hands.

fcturbo2

WHITE FC i used the gray ones i think.. so you think those silicone types are better huh... thanx..

Wankel7

Use a mazda gasket. And use RTV. You cannot go wrong with that combo.

I have done three that way and not a drop of leak.

James

twistedriver

Yeah i mean the oil relieve valve. If you have the manuel or go to ilvmyrx7.com you can check on the manuel on how to check it. I don't have the manuel on me right now. NO A DROP OF LEAK! I got to do try that!! Does letting the engine sit for a few hour before adding oil help??

Wankel7

I let mine sit for 24 hours. I believe the RTV I used said there was a curing time. I was very motivated for it not to leak. It is such a bitch job. I did two pans on the engine stand and one in car.

Also, use the right amount of RTV. I believe the FSM says a 4-6MM bead of it. Remember that there is aproxx 24MM to an inch. That is a small bead. If you use to much it will squeeze out the outside. And it will squeeze into the oil pan. There is always a chance if you used to much the stuff that squeezed into the oil pan might clog your pick up.



James

White_FC

the curing time is very important when using the RTV **** near oil.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Whenever i used RTV in addition to a gasket i LIGHTLY smear it over the gasket, just enought to make it wet looking, very little. Mainly because if you use anymore it spreads out and makes a small bead on the INSIDE and outside of the gasket, i noticed this mostly on the intake manifolds and it didn't look too good for airflow.

Wankel7

Intresting, never thought of using that little. Have you done gaskets exposed to liquid this way?

James

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

No, when I replaced my water pump I put on a little heavier bead. It appears to work great. No leaks, system working fine for about 1k miles now.

tancred

Looks like im going to be doing this same operation aswell, Im getting oil leaks from directly above the skidplate.....

DriftDragon28

i just looked under my car. In doing so i realized that i paid tooooo much for my TII. its leaking oil and smells like burning oil when running. My NA didnt. but yea Im a gonna hafta do the oil pan.

BTW I cant find the wire thats supposed to plug into the oil pressure sender. (guage isnt working. like i said i paid tooo much)

twistedriver

tancred i also have the same leak. My leak is coming from my oil metering pump. If you have a lift is pretty easy to get to it. But there are these small oil hose connect to the oil meter pump. I am kind of worry about those......... DriftDragon28 - every rx7 have oil leaks as long as the car runs good and you like the car thats fine.

lacycw

I know that the FSM shows how to install the oil pan both with and without a gasket. Both procedures use RTV. I have always installed mine with no gasket and a good helping of RTV and found it to work great.

Coop