Stefan2057

Im on my 3rd attempt to seal my oil pan. My second attempt was with a oil pan brace from banzi.

It seems that some oil is leaking down the studs so Im going to put them back in with some lock tight. (I was able to remove all the studs by hand, some will just keep going in the rear iron if you dont stop.)

Im also going to use Hondabond this time instead of the black RTV since some people say its awesome.

Im even thinking about using a gasket with the Hondabond because Im will to try anything not to do this anymore.

My question and problem is that oil film keeps leaking down the engine and onto the mateing surface. When I pull the pan off this time it looked like all the sealent was squished almost completely into the oil pan. Im assuming because the surface still had oil on it..

Any suggestions or advice would really really help, im tired of this issue but I don't want to live with a leaky rx7 and I know there are people out there that live a leak free life with a rotory.

Thanks inadvance for any help

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

you are using too many ft.lbs to hold the oil pan fasteners. clean the mating surface as good as you can. Put the silicon on and let it sit for a 15-mins or an hour, then start to tighten it down, don't squeeze the silicon out. Iirc it is only 5 - 7 ft.lbs for the oil pan bolts and you must let the silicon cure the proper amount of time. If you squeeze it out it will forever leak

Stefan2057

I finger tightened it down and waited an hour before tightening it down half way. Then finished the torque 24 hours later.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I answered a question on Oil pan gasket removal with an engine IN the car.It fixed the problem completely and it wasn't a small drop..it was a constant dribble,like pancake syrup pouring out!This is what I posted.

Here:https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...lease-1036360/

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

couple thoughts.

the surfaces need to be clean! this is hard on the engine, i like to rotate it a few times, in my head this lets the oil drain out of the rotors (easily 1/2 a quart), and then wait, and then clean.

second the pan rails need to be flat, the pan is just stamped steel, they bend. it doesn't need to be perfect, but you should get it close to straight.

third, if the grey silicon didn't work, the honda stuff is better, and the Mazda stuff is better than that 8527-77-739. it is expensive, but its very good. everyone else is going to say to use the "right stuff" which is good too. use a lot. let it set for at least 24 hours before you put oil in there.

the gasket is tempting, but i've never seen an engine with a gasket that didn't leak.

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

Make sure it's not your front cover leaking. I thought mine was the oil pan but it turned out the front cover was leaking on the side just above the oil pan.

Stefan2057

I did the old athletes foot test and its the pan for sure.

So I ended up using a gasket sandwiched with Honda-bond just like misterstyx69 link said so I guess will see.

During the process of squeezing it out the Honda-bond exploded out the back which was fun. Never using those plastic cone applicators again. Finger tighten the oil pan brace and then just a little more with a socket wrench but not to squize out the sides.

Honda bond says it takes 3 days to fully cure!? So I figured I'd torque it down then?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I've had very good luck with Permatex Ultra Grey, a single bead all around the inside of the bolt pattern.

TougeMonster

iTrader: (1)

+1 I used the same and no leaks anywhere
I've never seen a gasket seal a rotary pan

Take a look, the full line on the dip stick is above the top of the pan. Which means a paper gasket is always in contact with oil, and trying to sneak out any way it can. And it will