Hi all, I researched how to fix or replace oil pan Gasket on search engine and wouldn't you know it brought me here. I searched the terms here and could not find a thread on it. The one I read didn't help me out though.

I am mechanically ok, just not with a rotary engine, and need to know if anyone can help me out with the information / pics of how to fix the old oil pan leaking problem I have. Luckily I don't drive the car and check the oil but I do want to fix the leak.

Bought an oil pan Gasket, and know not sure if I wasted the money on that!
Questions 1: How do you fix a leaking oil pan gasket?
2: Do you have to drop the Sub-Frame? I have more questions than answers after reading on how to do it. More confused than ever after reading post from 05/2004.

Sorry so wordy, and thanks for any help .... people talking about dimpling the pan , the block, something about bisquit or something?

 

Ok..this is from a guy(ME) who just DID it.
Without taking the engine out.
...
Take the plastic belly tray off the car.
Jack the car up and put the front at least on stands at the lower control arm mounting points.( I just did that,front hi,back sitting on wheels)
If you decide to Level the car then put the car on FOUR Stands for easier access.sliding in and out from under the car.
Driver's side: undo(disconnect) any sensor connectors associated with the oil pan.
Passenger side:Undo Motor mount nut(14mm) in the subframe(lower).
Undo motor mount at the TOP of the mount..the one that attaches that nice big aluminum piece to the "hockey puck" looking motor mount.
NEXT Step is Fun..
get a floor jack and jack up the Rear of the engine at a point where the jack will not Interfere with the Oil Pan removal,BUT aid in lifting the engine up a tad to get the Motor mount off.I put the jack around the flat area on the bell housing.
Jack the Engine slowly and you will notice that the "hockey puck mount" will become loose.IF you get it out,fine,BUT if you do not then do not worry,as the Big aluminum piece that holds it to the engine will MOVE enough to get that part off,Once the 3 17mm bolts are out from under the engine at the oil pan.
You are obviously noting WHY you have to take this piece off now..Right?
That part drops,the Hockey puck assembly can come out,the aluminum piece now drops,giving you total access get the oil pan off.
Undo the 10mmbolts surrounding the oil pan.
The FRONT BOLTS are a real pain in the *** to get to,so you may have to Try to see if the engine can be maneuvered slightly to get at them.I used a couple odd wrenches and a 10mm 1/4 inch socket with a flex head.
BE PATIENT,as I filled the swear jar on this area!!!you just need to take a good look at where you can fully access them.
Remember how you got TO them and then it isn't bad putting them back in!
Once all bolts are out then you can pretty well take the pan and separate it from the Engine.
..................
Clean all surfaces to mount the pan.
clean the pan..paint it up if you wish..
NOW the next step is my method.
Slather a thin coating of "The Right Stuff"(permatex) on the oil pan.
Put the gasket ON the pan and set it in place..flatten it down and make sure the RTV is not goo-ing the holes that your 10mm bolts are going to go back in.this would hinder proper torquing at be a pain if trying to put a bolt in holes filled with hard RTV.
Set the pan Gasket side Down on a Flat surface and do not allow the pan and gasket to MOVE,and Put Weight on it so that the Gasket Seals to the pan...anything..concrete block,spare tire.
Now while that is setting make sure your Holes and surface are good on your engine.That no RTV or crap is in the threads of the bolt holes.
**(IF You broke a BOLT on removal, that is not my department,so if you DID,come back to this spot after you get it fixed!)
The Pan is Ready.
Now,take the RTV( aka Right stuff) and apply it to the Gasket mounting area,where the engine and gasket will contact each other.
You can smear this stuff on the gasket with say a putty knife or piece of rigid cardboard.Once the gasket is coated,let it Tack up.
Remember to leave enough room around the holes so that you are not going t9o be dealing with HARD RTV to try and get the bolts in.
This is a ONE SHOT attempt to get the oil pan up and in place.So make usre that the Hole area is not surrounded with Excessive RTV that will ooze into the Thread area after the oil pan gets set in place.
SO,Pan Tacky?..good.
get under the car with the pan,set it in place,,put a couple 10 mm bolts in and tighten them so the Pan doesn't kiss you the face.
then Have a Beer...
You'll need that after you put the rest of the bolts in.
Set the aluminum piece into place,no bolts.
Put the Hockey puck mount back in.Do not bolt it.
Now those two pieces are together?..Put the 17mm bolts on to hold that aluminum piece on and tighten it down.
REMEMBER you still have the front bolts to do,so once they are done and the Mount is on,then it is clear sailing.
Make sure you have hooked up the Sensors again.
......................Done yet?.....................
(hope that helps ya!)

 

AS Posted by trynit2:

Wheew, thanks for the information, but I see you did," use an oil pan gasket" you " didn't dimple the pan" can you please tell me why you did use the gasket and didn't dimple the pan? Thanks for the help too.

And my answer:

It is usually just RTV'ed on.
A fair amount of members have done it this way and have had great success.
I used a gasket,which I made myself by the way,since a new one was 2 hours away.
I did it this way as I was damned that I did not want to do it Twice!.
Dimpling the pan I have no clue what you are referring to,so let's just say that any uneven spots would be taken up by the gasket and use of the RTV.