So I'm doing a reinstallation of my oil pan after its was leaking. I'm installing a baffle this time along with my oil pan brace that I had previously installed.

My question is really what's the best way to do this under the car. The space is tight towards the front of the pan. Does the filler neck hold up the baffle after I've put it in place and reinstalled the neck? while I'm installing the pan I'm going to have my hands full.

If anyone has a good strategy for this or there's a easier approach that I'm over looking please let me know.

 

I used four little m6 studs in four of the bolt holes to locate the plate, gaskets and pan as i layered them up. This was done with engine out of the car though. you'd probably want to screw nuts on the studs as you go to hold your work up until you can get the bolts in (and take the studs out). Im imagining it will take a steady hand to do it upside down and not get gasket-goo every where. hopefully someone else with more experience will chime in.

Also, make sure you get 5mm longer bolts to accommodate the plate and extra gasket, id hate to have everything glued up and then the bolts ae too short!

 

I did this once with the engine in the car and it was definitely a pain. The second time, I unbolted both engine mounts & loosened the trans mounts so I could jack the front of the engine up a few inches over the steering rack - this helped immensely!

 

I actually have it raised up a little don't know about a couple of inches though. And I do have the entire area studded.

Can I install the gasket put the nuts on and wait 24 hours then remove all the nuts and the gasket will be stuck to the car?

THEN install the pan the next day?! Also I'm not using gaskets just a bunch of ultra black. I think my leaky problem is mostly because I didn't clean the surface well enough the last time because oil kept leaking from the pressure regulator and dripping on the mating surface..

 

why dont you just stud every other hole, then you can bolt it up