felixwankel88

new one is in my sig, u actually think i could live without a fc for more than a month hehe hells no

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

I have one of those for an S5 that I don't need. I am using a GSL-SE front cover on the engine (it's in my GSL-SE now) and the mechanical pump. I modified my existing pump like the link shows. It works fine. I epoxied the oil supply hole instead of making the block off plate. Works fine. If anyone is interested in the S5 rotary aviation adapter, let me know.

Aviator 902S

The lines on the omp can be disconnected by sliding the small spring clamps on the neoprene portion of the line back and then simply pulling the lines off the omp. Just don't try to disconnect the neoprene sections from the nylon lines or you'll wreck them.

The metering pump adapter acts as both a block-off plate for the engine oil and as an oil feeder for delivering the gravity-fed 2-cycle oil into the omp. A small shaft inside the adapter connects the omp drive unit from the engine to the omp so that the omp is still driven by the engine.

However, check out some of the updated threads on this subject. Another member modified his 2nd gen omp to deliver 2-cycle oil from a reservior while blocking off the oil from the pan--- without the need for the adapter.

I read his report, modified my stock pump and then sold my adapter to a guy in Florida who wanted it in spite of the fact that this mod now renders the adapter obsolete. His thread, and another one that I started, describe the procedure for this mod. It's not that difficult and will save you the $76 to $90 for an adapter.

felixwankel88

im gonna do some experementing with a old omp today, ill get some pics when i do

1990RXHeaven

Thanx for the info aviator. The writeup I've read by patman and others that you speak of is one way of doing it. But I'm of the mindset that if there is a solution for a mod or fix in my car that takes away the need for me to "jimmy" something and it's under 100 bucks, then why not. Even though my engine bay isn't all that clean or perfect, I'm just the do it the way that seems the most proper kinda guy. That being said I don't mean to discredit the mod done without the adapter. I was given my adapter as a gift from my grandmother and laura and tracy crook, who own rotary aviation. But the only reason that happened, besides the fact that tey are very nice, was that I told them I was buying one anyway.

Aviator 902S

Nice to have friends in high places!

I've actually spoken to both Tracy and Laura on ocassion and they are both very nice and down-to-earth people. On top of that, I'm also a rotary-powered homebuilt aircraft enthusiast, as is Tracy--- which is how I found out about them way back in 1995, when his 13B-powered RV4 project was in its infancy.

BTW, the adapter is an item produced by PCV technologies, a company owned by a friend of Tracy and Laura, Richard Sohn. Richard sells these adapters via Tracy and Laura's company, Real World Solutions, aka: rotaryaviation.

The adaptor certainly works well and no mods to the stock omp are necessary to make it work, although the 1" thickness of the adaptor places the omp within one millimeter of the lower rad hose attach flange on the water pump housing. But this close proximity doesn't pose any problems because there's no chafing and you can still get a wrench on both mounting bolts.

What makes the mod of the actual omp such an attractive option vs. buying the adapter is partly because of the cost savings, but also because used omps are dime a dozen at wrecking yards. This means that if you're concerned about performing an irreversible mod and thereby decreasing the resale value of your otherwise pristine and original car you needn't worry--- simply keep the original omp set-up in the garage until such a time that you decide to sell the car.

1990RXHeaven

Well it is nice to hear of someone that knows them both well. They were the ones that helped me get my first fc to begin with. I believe it is laura that is my grandmother's husband's sister. I think. Degrees of separation get away from me past aunts and uncles but I guess that would make laura my great aunt. I don't want to get far away from the topic but I always wanted to go visit them all in georgia and take a ride in the RVOtter. If you ever find yourself in upstate NY, be sure to let me know and we can talk rotary. Thanks for the info.

BTW... I'm having trouble finding the exact location of the omp to begin with. Any pics or descriptions that would help? I looked in my FSm but there isn't any good info on where to find the darn thing to start with.

felixwankel88

hey, how far are you from albany 1990rxheaven?? im like 40 mins from alabany mabee we can meet up some time if u are cloase to albany

1990RXHeaven

omg thats frickin cool. I'm in Geneseo, NY just south of rochester. if you are west of albany, maybe we can meet halfway off the thruway or sumpthin. In fact, I'm game for tuesday. Free all day if you want. You can even come all the way here if you want. I've always been dying to meet someone thats into rotaries in person too but i never really find anyone. By the way, I followed all your threads on your previous ground up rebuild. Too bad it didnt work out but I'm glad you found a new one.

Aviator 902S

Your metering pump is located on the front lower right-hand corner of the engine, just under and to the left of where your lower rad hose attaches to the engine. It's hard to see with the air pump in the way but it's there.

You'll see four nylon lines attached to it that extend upward, two of which go to the intake and two of which go to orfices in the rotor housings on the upper right-hand side. These are the oil feeder lines that deliver the oil from the metering pump into the engine.

The pump itself is bolted to the front cover of the engine by two bolts that require a 10mm wrench to remove. It shouldn't be necessary to remove the oil lines at all. Just take out the two bolts, pull the omp away from the engine, place the adapter complete with supplied o-ring between the omp and the engine and then bolt it back together using the longer bolts that came with the adapter. Then mount your reservior up high on the RH shock tower and run the neoprene fuel hose from it to the nipple on the adapter. Fill the reservior with 2-cycle oil and you're good to go.

Tracy and Laura live on their grass airstrip in Bell, Florida. Bell is located in northwest Florida not far from the Georgia state border on the Suwannee river and not far from the panhandle and Florida's west coast.

I don't know if or when we'll find ourselves in upstate NY. I've only been there once, in January of 1995 en route from New Brunswick to Vancouver, Canada in my 2nd of five 1st gen RX7s. We passed through such small towns along route 11 as Malone, Burke Center and Fort Covington before crossing back into Canada at Cornwall, Ontario. Of course, we were nowhere near Albany. Interesting, because growing up in Woodstock, NB in the 1970s we were able to pick up an AM rock station from Albany, WPTR. Good tunes, too bad it was AM.

1990RXHeaven

cool man. Thanks a lot for the info. I knew it was there, but just couldn't see it. My grandmother lives in southern Georgia and so I figured sometime I would take a trip down there and stay with her and make some stops including Tracy's shop and a ride in the RV (maybe). On the way down or back I'd also stop in to see Bruce Turrentine's East Coast Rotary where my car came from. Yada yada. I'd also like to do it late in the summer to go to NOPI. Why not, right? Anyways. I'm not close albany at all. I live bout 4 hrs west, just south of Rochester, where I go to school at Geneseo State University. If I ever get to see Tracy and Laura, I'll be sure to take some pics and share with everyone. Tracy sure is an inspiration for rotary adaptation and development. I can only hope to be that cool someday. Do you have your own plane? I'm starting to learn some stuff about planes too. It is a fixed gear? Are you using a constant speed prop. Is it a single or dual engine? Now that would be the greatest. Maybe a baron sized aircraft with twin 20Bs. You wouldnt even need turbos. I'll get right on that. Can I just borrow, say, $50k?

Aviator 902S

No plane yet, but I restore DeHavilland Twin Otters and service Beech King Airs for a living. The plane I want to build is an RV-7A, which is an updated, tricycle-geared side-by-side version of Tracy's (tandem-seat, taildragger) RV-4. Of course it will have a Renesis 13B and (hopefully) one of Tracy's reduction drives, but this project has a few priorities that are displacing it at the moment, like a house purchase and maybe a hangar as well.

A 20B in an RV-7A would be overkill for two reasons:

First, the plane has a never-exceed speed (VNE) of around 220 mph and the 13B is plenty capable of providing this while burning less fuel than a 20B would.

Second, the biggest advantage of a 20B vs. a 13B (besides more horsepower) is gobs more low-end torque. This is great for rapid acceleration from a standstill in a car, but in aircraft use you just stand on the brakes, open the throttle, release the brakes and then take off. The 13B engine is already at high rpm from that point on, and at high revs produces all the torque (and hp) you'll ever need. Who cares what the low-end torque numbers are? The only time you're turning those low rpms is during taxiing.

A 20B engine is more suitable for aircraft with higher VNEs and that require more horsepower--- like for example, the RV8 that Tracy is currently building.

Skaterking

Has anybody used the Oil Metering System designed by J.H.B Performance? http://jhbperformance.com/products.php#oil_system. This is an awesome idea, and I would like to do it to my vert. But the idea that they sell you a tank with the kit is what catches me. I am a A&P Technician, and I can't believe that there are rotary powered aircraft. I'd like to own my own business someday, and it would be freakin sweet to own a FBO that specializes in Rotary powered aircraft, and then work on the the cars to. Sort of cover both air and ground. lol. But any ways thanks for all your guys' advice.

prof

I've been using the Rotary Aviation one for a year now - running Marine 2 Stroke oil - works a treat Car is a daily driver - so 200 miles a week. One thing I would say about the RA kit is the quality of the engineering - it's never leaked.

I also suspect that running 'clean' oil through the OMP will give it longer life as well, I'm convinced that dirty oil can contribute to the OMP sticking and burning out the stepper or the ECU outputs or both - based on the cleaning I had to do when I put this in, and when recently taken off to fix a leak from the front housing (due to the engine builder not using a gasket)