I have an oil leak which appears to be coming from a leaky oil pan. I cleaned the entire area and started the car and i found a film of oil along the protruding part of the block where the oil pan mates. The car seems to only drip oil when running. Does it make sense that the leak is from the pan? It seems to have a drip every 10 seconds or so. It is not much oil at all. Is there anyway of sealing it with out popping the pan off and reinstalling it?

Thanks in advance

 

no, and taking the pan off is easy. just put a jack under the trans to hold the engine up, drain all the oil, and undo all the little bolts and the passenger engine mount.

then clean the edges off real good and put some RTV all the way around. done.

 

ya i was afraid it would come to that... i might be lazy.

before i go and do that does it even make sense that it only leaks when the car is on?

 

You may as well install a brace while you are there, stop it from happening again

http://www.banzai-racing.com/product..._pan_brace.htm

 

Make sure it's the pan and not something above the pan. It's odd that the leak only occurs when the car is running as the pan is supposed to be under vacuum because of the purge system. But if the purge valve is bad then it could pressurize and force oil out.

That pan brace is awesome. You can do something similar but not as good with some large flat washers and slightly longer bolts.

Whatever you do, use an oil pan gasket and place a thin film of RTV on each side of it. This is what I do in combination with the washers and I've never had one leak.

 

i do not run a pcv setup. Yes i know i should. I haven't gotten around to putting it back on, the previous owner ripped it off the car.

I think i am going to do the washer technique for now. I'll post up results in a day or two.

 

Well, if the vent lines are just capped then that will always be the issue. If they are open to the atmosphere, then it's probably not the cause.

 

they are to atmosphere

 

just got it resealed. I hope to hell i dont have to do that again.. that is a huge bitch. I could not get my torque wrench on 2 of the bolts so i had to wing it. Also, it took me over the prescribed dry time for the rtv, luckily it was cold so it did not dry as fast as normal so i think i am ok in that regard. Hopefully no leaks tomorrow.

One question: Just out of curiosity what is that little plug facing downward on the rear iron on the drivers side?

If this thing does not seal correctly i might pay some one to do it because it is one of the least pleasant things i have had to do on my car

 

evidently there was a second leak... this one in a much worse place. It is between the rear iron and the rear rotor housing near the oil filter.

Am i going to need to pull off the rear iron and reseal the entire mess? what parts can i reuse and what needs to be replaced? It is a fresh rebuild. I need to get his fixed ASAP because i have an appointment at the dyno the 29/30th that i can not miss. Thanks for all your help

 

just looked at a diagram in the fsm, the dowel pin/oil passage is right there. Im believe that is where the leak is coming from.

Here is my part list for redoing all the seals between the rear rotor housing nad rear iron:
17 tension bolt seals
1 inner water seal
1 outer water seal
1 tube hylomar
2 orings that go around the dowel pins (i do not have a part # for this if anyone has it please post it)
1 oil pan gasket
1 lim to engine block gasket
2 orings between LIM and block

I will reuse my rear main seal as i replaced it during the rebuild.
I will also reuse all the seals on the rear stationary gear.

Questions:
can i just take off the flywheel and counter weight and undo the tension bolts and pull off the rear housing and leave all the front hub/front cover/etc attached? Should i plan on rebuilding the entire rear rotor as opposed to only the rear face?

Please post any comments or any additional gaskets/parts i am forgetting on my list

 

could i just leave it and rebuild it after i have the tune done?