FC S4 NA

I've been testing every possible way before I rebuild the motor.....

compression is 110 front and 140 rear
used rotaryressurection write up on using regular compression testers

I wanted to see if oil was clogged in the cat, re moved it and found that oil was dripping out of the headers.......

DOes this pretty much mean my oil seals are gone????

 

Could be your omp lines are cracked, in fact I'd bet money on it. They reside just above the header and after the years become very brittle and crack open. When they leak they are no longer providing the rotors with proper lubrication and they also make quite a mess and stink because of the oil on the headers. I would pull off the UIM and throttle body and check it out.

 

Is your car smoking?

 

Wouldn't that make the oil drip around the headers/manifolds? He said they were
Interesting sig Brent, btw.

 

the OMP was tossed, lines and injectors were removed...premixing at the moment also.....I've never taken the UIM off before, if I do can I see where oil is coming from in the block?? sorry rotary noob

 

smoking very bad on acceleration...not too bad at idle or startup

 

the oil is dripping from the header itself and throught the exhausr

 

I know, I was pointing out that he misinter-- nevermind.

I had the same problem (among others) on the most recent RX7 that I bought. Whenever I spun the motor trying to get it started, oil dripped out from the open exhaust header. I came to the same conclusion: worn out oil control rings. I've since parked the car with the intent to replace the motor and completely rebuild the one it has now. I can't be certain that's the problem (which is why I didn't say yes or no to your question) until it's apart, but in my case I found a bottle of No Smoke under the driver's seat, so aside from the previous owner being an idiot I'm pretty confident it was burning a lot more oil than it should and isn't just a symptom of "waking up". There aren't many places for oil to leak from inside the rotor housings, so the best bet is control rings.

 

I just pulled the motor, I'm having second thoughts about rebuilding the S4 NA....

opinions: is it even worth it to rebuild this motor or just source an S4 turbo......

 

damnit, your absolutley right. I didn't read the post carefully enough... thats what i get when i stumble back in here once every year

the sig was a quote from a guy on another forum, thought it was a pretty good one. We were discussing the legalities of defending yourself using weapons, and then he said that.

 

IF you're getting 140psi then there is definitely a lot of oil in the combustion chamber artificially raising compression. I once had a 200+k mile GSLSE that showed 125psi even though I knew the motor was flat worn out, because it had so much oil bypassing the control rings. It was kinda like a permanent unflood feature.

People rebuild s4 NA's all day long, but not if they want to shift mad quick y0. If you're okay with the car as it runs now (provided it is in fair running condition) then just stick with the NA rebuild, as doing a turbo swap is more work in tracking down the necessary parts and you usually have a minimum of 3 grand into it even with a basic swap.

 

I have a complete S5T2 swap on the side, just want to throw in something for now while I take apart the T2 motor