Oil Cooler Install Tips?
#1
Oil Cooler Install Tips?
Tomorrow I change my oil cooler and hoses. I searched a found alot of stuff but still had a couple questions:
a) I undestand you install the banjo bolt for the long hose first so its easier to install the other end at the oil cooler. Book says 40-51 ft-lbs torque-Is this right since it goes into an aluminum engine and cooler? Seems high. I read its easy to crack the oil cooler too.
b) Do you use thread sealant?
Any tips?
a) I undestand you install the banjo bolt for the long hose first so its easier to install the other end at the oil cooler. Book says 40-51 ft-lbs torque-Is this right since it goes into an aluminum engine and cooler? Seems high. I read its easy to crack the oil cooler too.
b) Do you use thread sealant?
Any tips?
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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The banjo bolts are straight threaded so that torque is not a problem. An NPT fitting might crack because of the taper.
No sealant, but you need to use new crush washers.
No sealant, but you need to use new crush washers.
#3
Thanks, I didnt know that about the threads. Good info. Didnt get around to it today but did get my tranny & diff fluids changed and fuel filter.
I was looking and wondered if the oil needed to be drain from the engine? The hoses into the engine look higher than the pan level. I only have 500 miles since I changed it last.
I was looking and wondered if the oil needed to be drain from the engine? The hoses into the engine look higher than the pan level. I only have 500 miles since I changed it last.
#5
I drained it just in case.
Now, when you tighten the lines at the oil cooler is it better to tighten them before you mount the cooler? The rubber on the bracket flexes quite a bit and Im afraid I'll crack the cooler neck. I had to dremel the old brackets out because they were gone/rust.
Now, when you tighten the lines at the oil cooler is it better to tighten them before you mount the cooler? The rubber on the bracket flexes quite a bit and Im afraid I'll crack the cooler neck. I had to dremel the old brackets out because they were gone/rust.
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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I always mount the cooler before tightening the hoses. The hoses only really fit at specific angles so it is hard to get them installed with the cooler out of the car. The cooler tends to move a lot when tightening the hoses but I've never ripped a mount.
#7
I'll try it that way. I searched all day for the one crush washer at the front cover and stainless nuts to mount the cooler. Found the nuts but not the crush washer so I guess I'll hit the stealer tomorrow.
I fitted the lines finger tight and everything fitted really easy. I'll tighten it tomorrow once i get the washer
This job was tougher than I expected. Things were rusted in place and I had to cut out the bracets. Sand/garbage in and around the cooler and evaporator was unbelievable too.
Thanks for the info
I fitted the lines finger tight and everything fitted really easy. I'll tighten it tomorrow once i get the washer
This job was tougher than I expected. Things were rusted in place and I had to cut out the bracets. Sand/garbage in and around the cooler and evaporator was unbelievable too.
Thanks for the info
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