Oil in coolant but no coolant in oil. Blown coolant seals or something else possibly?
01-21-13, 06:13 PM
#1
Oil in coolant but no coolant in oil. Blown coolant seals or something else possibly?
Well I finally got to looking at my car somewhat today after getting a few parts and attempting to start it up (it didn't start because i was jumping it and battery was weak).
I checked out the radiator and thermostat housing for coolant, it was empty and appeared to have a brownish color lining inside it (i will provide pictures shortly).
Is there a chance that the coolant system has rust inside it and that's whats causing this? Or is it most likely probably a blown coolant system.
I checked the dipstick on the car and the oil looks clean without any coolant in it.
The car not having any coolant in it makes me think blown coolant seal, and I was told the car did overheat, but we all know not everyone that owns an rx7 knows what is really wrong with their car and that's why they sell it.
I checked out the radiator and thermostat housing for coolant, it was empty and appeared to have a brownish color lining inside it (i will provide pictures shortly).
Is there a chance that the coolant system has rust inside it and that's whats causing this? Or is it most likely probably a blown coolant system.
I checked the dipstick on the car and the oil looks clean without any coolant in it.
The car not having any coolant in it makes me think blown coolant seal, and I was told the car did overheat, but we all know not everyone that owns an rx7 knows what is really wrong with their car and that's why they sell it.
01-21-13, 06:47 PM
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well clean oil is a good sign, but the cooling system just looks like typical neglect.
the overheat and missing water kind of go together, but its possible there is some other leak.
the worst case is if it blew a coolant seal and they just parked it with water in one of the rotors, because iron seals in an iron rotor = total loss.
so squirt some oil in there, and see if its got compression.
the overheat and missing water kind of go together, but its possible there is some other leak.
the worst case is if it blew a coolant seal and they just parked it with water in one of the rotors, because iron seals in an iron rotor = total loss.
so squirt some oil in there, and see if its got compression.
01-21-13, 09:37 PM
#5
Need to pick up a battery, turned to slowly trying to jump start it on my cars dead battery need to pick up a new battery - car was sitting for 9 months or longer before I bought it.
Rotary >Pistons
01-21-13, 10:42 PM
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Pop some oil in the housings since it has been sitting.(NO ATF..Fogging oil would be ideal,if not just a spray of reg oil).
roll it over like once a day,seeing you are in no real big hurry working on this.
That way at least your internals are nice and lubed for when you start it.
Mind you,it will smoke like a fog machine when you get it started but at least it will roll over smoothly!
roll it over like once a day,seeing you are in no real big hurry working on this.
That way at least your internals are nice and lubed for when you start it.
Mind you,it will smoke like a fog machine when you get it started but at least it will roll over smoothly!
01-21-13, 11:05 PM
#7
Pop some oil in the housings since it has been sitting.(NO ATF..Fogging oil would be ideal,if not just a spray of reg oil).
roll it over like once a day,seeing you are in no real big hurry working on this.
That way at least your internals are nice and lubed for when you start it.
Mind you,it will smoke like a fog machine when you get it started but at least it will roll over smoothly!
roll it over like once a day,seeing you are in no real big hurry working on this.
That way at least your internals are nice and lubed for when you start it.
Mind you,it will smoke like a fog machine when you get it started but at least it will roll over smoothly!
I tried starting it several times over like 25 minutes of jump starting but it was turning over sluggishly every time, it'd turn semi quick for a second then slow right down.
I'm hoping to get a red top optima soon, I know they crank the engine faster than other batteries.
I still need to put on all the stock intake , I just wanted to see if it'd fire up...but it turned over way to slow, they told me it started right up before when it last ran but that was when the battery wasn't dead like it is now.
Rotary >Pistons
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01-22-13, 09:50 AM
#8
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Optima battery is not worth it. i have to double check, but i believe im using a ford explorer duralast battery. the cranking amps is close to 900 i believe, either way its higher and stronger than the optima and costs around 100. The money you'll save with a cheaper battery can go towards something else.
01-22-13, 10:21 AM
#9
I tried starting it several times over like 25 minutes of jump starting but it was turning over sluggishly every time, it'd turn semi quick for a second then slow right down.
I'm hoping to get a red top optima soon, I know they crank the engine faster than other batteries.
I'm hoping to get a red top optima soon, I know they crank the engine faster than other batteries.
Once you get a battery, do a compression check. That will tell you if you are spinning your wheels here or not.
01-22-13, 10:32 AM
#10
Probably need a coolant pressure test as well or at least to diagnose the coolant problem.
What else would cause overheating and loss of coolant other than a blown coolant seal.
I'm going to change the thermostat.
I also know a guy who will sell me a used optima for $75 if its still good after he charges it.
Are you saying optima batteries easily lose their ability to hold charge after being dead awhile?
Rotary >Pistons
What else would cause overheating and loss of coolant other than a blown coolant seal.
I'm going to change the thermostat.
I also know a guy who will sell me a used optima for $75 if its still good after he charges it.
Are you saying optima batteries easily lose their ability to hold charge after being dead awhile?
Rotary >Pistons
01-22-13, 10:59 AM
#11
I'm saying standard batteries don't like to be discharged. But you can replace them at the store without even waiting for a recharge. Optima red's do better, but not enough to justify the cost IMO. Buying them second hand also means you don't get to use the warranty.
Also, you are believing a lot of what the previous owner told you as gospel. Unless he is related to you by genetics and/or worked for a rotary specific shop, I'd take his information as suggestions only. "Low coolant" is a lot different from drained coolant. It could be as simple as a leaky heater hose, LIM O-rings, poorly seated block drain plug, water pump weep hole, TB coolant line, turbo coolant lines, slow leaky rad, etc... Pressure tester is the right way to find these kind of leaks.
However, going through and making your coolant system 100% and then finally checking compression only to find out you need to tear it all back out again, doesn't make sense.
Battery stuff from another thread recently.
Also, you are believing a lot of what the previous owner told you as gospel. Unless he is related to you by genetics and/or worked for a rotary specific shop, I'd take his information as suggestions only. "Low coolant" is a lot different from drained coolant. It could be as simple as a leaky heater hose, LIM O-rings, poorly seated block drain plug, water pump weep hole, TB coolant line, turbo coolant lines, slow leaky rad, etc... Pressure tester is the right way to find these kind of leaks.
However, going through and making your coolant system 100% and then finally checking compression only to find out you need to tear it all back out again, doesn't make sense.
Battery stuff from another thread recently.
reds are configured for cranking.. and to be used in a daily user where the alt takes over and provides the power for ancillaries...
its designed to crank like hell .. and work with a charging system that can handle the job of the ancillaries ( shallow discharge )
as a result it is not designed to be dragged low repeatedly .. its built for sharp fast cranking draw.
..FC's with dodgy wired alt and overnight trickle that park up for more than a few days at a time will need a switch to isolate the battery
yellows are for deep cycle.. ie drag cars with no or insufficient alt.. or suv with winch .. or a big entertainment system that will drag the battery low repeatedly
-- it is designed to be abused and dragged low yet still recover ( deep cycle discharge ) .. its built for long slow overdraw and starting power is only average
this makes a better candidate for something you park up un-isolated for long times with a slow parasitic draw of an alarm or faulty alt wiring
blues is for marine and come in dark grey or light grey case
.. dark is cranking ( shallow discharge )
while light grey/blue is multipurpose deep discharge
if your alt wiring is sorted and big enough for the car.. and you use it everyday
.. then a red top is the correct option as allows you to choose a smaller size with comparable cold cranking amps to larger yellow
-- or allows you to use the same size ,, from a remote location ( like rear of FC ) .. without suffering from a slow crank... i have 800-1000 cca to start a ported FC with a mixer LPG fuel system .. fires straight up .. and works much better than the dual 440 cca battery system i had before
its designed to crank like hell .. and work with a charging system that can handle the job of the ancillaries ( shallow discharge )
as a result it is not designed to be dragged low repeatedly .. its built for sharp fast cranking draw.
..FC's with dodgy wired alt and overnight trickle that park up for more than a few days at a time will need a switch to isolate the battery
yellows are for deep cycle.. ie drag cars with no or insufficient alt.. or suv with winch .. or a big entertainment system that will drag the battery low repeatedly
-- it is designed to be abused and dragged low yet still recover ( deep cycle discharge ) .. its built for long slow overdraw and starting power is only average
this makes a better candidate for something you park up un-isolated for long times with a slow parasitic draw of an alarm or faulty alt wiring
blues is for marine and come in dark grey or light grey case
.. dark is cranking ( shallow discharge )
while light grey/blue is multipurpose deep discharge
if your alt wiring is sorted and big enough for the car.. and you use it everyday
.. then a red top is the correct option as allows you to choose a smaller size with comparable cold cranking amps to larger yellow
-- or allows you to use the same size ,, from a remote location ( like rear of FC ) .. without suffering from a slow crank... i have 800-1000 cca to start a ported FC with a mixer LPG fuel system .. fires straight up .. and works much better than the dual 440 cca battery system i had before
01-22-13, 10:10 PM
#16
My post count is high because I've made a lot of posts. That's pretty self explanitory, I've been on here since 2004.
I just got back on here more after taking a 1-2 year vacation after selling my na, I now have an 87 t2.
Rotary >Pistons
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