Oil Control O-Rings
01-29-05, 03:04 PM
#1
Oil Control O-Rings
I recently rebuilt my engine and used Atkins viton seals in place of the stock mazda seals. Due to an issue with 3mm seals and my OMP, I'm rebuilding the engine again. Between the two rebuilds, I put 2200 miles on the car. Upon the second teardown, I found that the outer oil control rings didn't swell with heat or whatever other thing causes them to swell after use. The reason I'm concerned is because on startup, my engine puffs a little oily smoke, and I'm hoping this is the reason.
I have a two questions.
1) What's the difference between Atkins seals and stock seals?
2) Are these outer seals supposed to have swelled up by 2200 miles?
3) Could this be a reason my engine smokes on startup?
I have a two questions.
1) What's the difference between Atkins seals and stock seals?
2) Are these outer seals supposed to have swelled up by 2200 miles?
3) Could this be a reason my engine smokes on startup?
01-29-05, 07:08 PM
#5
Nor does it need to...they make them slightly oversized, theyre a bit harder to install then stockers for that reason. But there is no problem with this. All rotaries will smoke on startup, as a natural design of the engine. Even new ones, go testdrive an rx-8 that hasnt been started up that day yet and watch the smoke.
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01-30-05, 07:28 PM
#10
Once installed in the rotor (theyre usually a bitch to install, and require tapping with a hammer, whereas the softer rubber from mazda can sometimes be pressed in by hand) it shouldnt be able to move at all...except a mm or so up and down. Ive never seen a viton oring change shape, smaller or larger, from when it was installed all the way down to 25k miles later. If you're asking if the oring should fill the entire width of the flat metal carrier, the answer is no...it never will, nor should it. When the mazda ones do this, it's because theyre worn flat out, literally. Staying round ensures a tight seal. Flattening out wider means it will let oil leak by.
01-30-05, 11:43 PM
#11
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
If you're asking if the oring should fill the entire width of the flat metal carrier, the answer is no...it never will, nor should it. When the mazda ones do this, it's because theyre worn flat out, literally. Staying round ensures a tight seal. Flattening out wider means it will let oil leak by.
That's the impression I had, but when these atkins o-rings were new, they were flopping around in the metal ring, and 2500 miles later, the same thing is occuring. I'm thinking they have a bunch of the wrong size orings and are selling them anyway. Now for real, the last question. Do you recommend viton over rubber?
01-31-05, 09:03 AM
#14
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Hi,
There is a thread somewhere in this forum which provides part numbers for generic O ring seals from Mc Master Carr, an industrial supply company. The seals I have seen discussed are the rotor inner, rotor outer seals as well as the inner jacket water O ring. The concensus is to buy the outer jacket O-ring from Mazda rather than trying to make up your own from cord stock. I have not yet come across the generic part number for the dowel pin O-rings or the O-ring that goes on the front cover when you rebuild without using the front cover gasket. Does anybody have these?
There is a thread somewhere in this forum which provides part numbers for generic O ring seals from Mc Master Carr, an industrial supply company. The seals I have seen discussed are the rotor inner, rotor outer seals as well as the inner jacket water O ring. The concensus is to buy the outer jacket O-ring from Mazda rather than trying to make up your own from cord stock. I have not yet come across the generic part number for the dowel pin O-rings or the O-ring that goes on the front cover when you rebuild without using the front cover gasket. Does anybody have these?
01-31-05, 09:21 AM
#15
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Here's another thought.....
With the thermal pellet mod, you are going to get some smoke at strartup... the thermal pettel was designed to restrict the flow of oil to your motor until it warms up a bit and the seals start working better... With the pellet mod, you get pressure to the rotors right away and are going to get some smoke....
I've done the pellet mod to engines that didn't smoke with the stock pellet and they always smoke a bit at startup after the pellet mod..
I realyl wouldn't worry abotut it if the smoke goes away as soon as the motor starts to warm up.
With the thermal pellet mod, you are going to get some smoke at strartup... the thermal pettel was designed to restrict the flow of oil to your motor until it warms up a bit and the seals start working better... With the pellet mod, you get pressure to the rotors right away and are going to get some smoke....
I've done the pellet mod to engines that didn't smoke with the stock pellet and they always smoke a bit at startup after the pellet mod..
I realyl wouldn't worry abotut it if the smoke goes away as soon as the motor starts to warm up.
03-01-05, 11:16 AM
#22
Carter 2.0
^^^That's is my fear. They are hard to get in place. I wonder if I rolled one or something. The first time doing it could've happened and being new I didn't even realize it. I examined them for about two days trying to make sure. But who can be positive with out pulling them off again.
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